paulr33

are you sure that's right? with 5w 40 or 10w 40 i would expect for a good condition motor to have 2kgcm2 at idle. ill check the nissan factory specs but 1 kgcm2 at idle sounds too low

yep just check the GTST wiring diagrams the stock boost solenoid has 12v constant and a switched ground from the ECU when rpm is over 4500rpm it switches the ground on wire 25 i think and this turns the boost solenoid on, which makes it close, this bleeds a bit more boost on the std turbo so you could use this in the same way to make it bleed a bit more, or use a bigger better valve and also run your water spray or whatever.

put it on a dyno and check the basics. so many variables and so many things changed. everyone is quick to blame the workshop so before you go doing any of that, get it all checked and check the basics on the dyno. check the tune, check the timing, check the fuel, check the fuel pump (walbro's can be ass sometimes) check the AFR's excessive fuel usuage is usually poor tune poor closed loop constant loading the car up / bring it on boost repeatedly a good check is to give the car to your girlfriend or mum and let her drive it for a few days i bet the economy doulbes or triples when they drive it (ie they baby it and dont bring it on boost constantly) i know you said you dont do it, but its a simple mechnical check, if if they get same ass economy its not your driving

yes but you would be using the GTST ECU and from memory pin 25 is switched ground at 4500rpm the stock boost solend would be $2 to buy from somedone who has gotten rid of it and as lachlan said, this would work prefectly. otherwise jaycar kit or if u want jap brand AVCR will do it but mega expensive

sell it and buy a GTST already

if you cant prove a rebuild with reciepts, it didnt exist if you are car and its had some work done it (ie $3500 rebuild), surely you hang onto the reciepts to prove the work and cost $$$ to justify the higher sell price

i think you should do nistune or powerfc or safc and be done with it nistune is undetacable, powerfc is easy to reverse if defected, safc is most annoying to remove all of those should let you avoid the R&R, give some more power and better fuel economy

agree, youll probably find the remapped ecu's probably just aim for the richest AFR possible as a safety protection to suit all uses

pickup in keilor downs come and get them take for free if u want just want them gone otherwise the whole lot goes on ebay

yep chop chop want them to go

thats a lotta driving!

slow - no one wants to come and get them they wil go on ebay soon if no one wants them hows qld

0.85kgcm2 by 2264rpm no wonder mine is quick 0 to 100

good idea and if u can someone that knows skylines also helps to look for common issues etc even pay somedone from the forums to come if u have to

yeah well it depends on if it will bother you or not but any black car will show up any panel issues so if you dont mind that , go for it but be sure to check the basic mechanical shit etc before forking over cash people these days too easily fork over their cash without checking stuff etc specially for a first car you dont want to be suckered into a junker

i guess it depends on how desperaste you are and how noticable it is given its a black car, any imperfection looks horrible so unless its mirror straight it will look like ass

were you speeding?

i think collingwood are winning

i think you are best keeping it low as possible where it still makes good power and doesnt drop off if the boost is already dropping off, thats a sign its becoming in-efficient already ive had my 33 for about 7 years now on std turbo and engine still with 230k on the clock (got it at 53k) and i never see the limiter and usually short change the gear around 6500rpm as you can feel the power trail off so i think this is a good insurance policy as a general practice, it may even make the car overall quicker vs letting it rev out to 7500rpm

and peak rwkw is a single figure at any one time it hardly explains the cars acceleration and how it performs on the street if johnny where you said it makes 232rwkw and the other makes 264kw it could be dyno differences, how it is strapped down, air temp correction etc as long as it feels quicker on the street its all good the only comparison that is useful is your same car on the same dyno each time when you do mods, you check before and after, as long as the power goes up, all good its only if you add mods and get no gain then you need to check it id perfer to make less rwkw (vs higher for bragging rights) and have quicker times

friends sti for sale http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=12B1EA94F9EE

friday today woo hooo crap weather though

sweet thanks ill check that one up and will get latest ver i wa speaking with the fc tune developer and he is in the middle of reflashing the hand controller to run hacked firmware so who knows what that will offer or how it will look etc

hi all i have done the final update for my presentation and it's 14 slides so if you are interested in this stuff check it out i will be covering off PowerFC General Update - SEP 2010 - Terminology Mess - Model (or version) Difference - EL Hand Controller - New Data Cable option (FC Hako box) - Datalogit latest version 2.127 - FC Tune & FC Tune Commander - FC Watch / FC Pro / Co Pilot - PowerFC in the Wikipedia - The PowerFC FAQ & Emulator - Discontinued PowerFC Models - Unofficial ECR33 Djetro - Reflash the PowerFC

go see a mechanic and by jumping when revving do you mean the needle is slipping or moving freely ? could be clutch slip if thats what you mean - what clutch?