paulr33

the common theme proper setup manifold with split pulse setup exhaust housing with split pulse external gate that will give you the best of everything, but it wont come cheap and it wont look factory OEM either

he is talking about leaving the bov blocked off and lettting it surge its ass off every time the throttle body closes it's arguable that letting the compressor surge its ass off every time causes damage, i agree do a survey of 100 vl turbos with captain insano surge and ask them how many have done turbo rebuilds

its just some of sarahs personal photos, not really related to deca is it ?

no i should be more like 10psi

170rwkw

it sounds fine, vspec makes no difference, boost is same on non vspec

you will probably find most turbocharger resellers are like this, garrett/GCG as well. usually when a turbocharger fails its due to installation, improper use or some other user fault running a pod filter and letting a single spec of dirt or grit in the bearing cartridge would be enough to make it shat itself garrett etc would take the unit back, disassemble and find out the cause, most likely dirt / foreign debris sucked into it

premium in angelsea, through first roundabout, over first bridge, shell on your right has premium we use this for our GOR cruise

swoit, ill have the friday off so ill be heading down to shepp in the afternoon

92 days till round #2

just baby it around until you get it tuned dont load it up, dont boost it

once you go out of the compressors efficiency you just dial in more heat more heat = engine go bang so running 1.3 bar may give you say 100 units of air at 70deg air temp running 1.9 bar may give you say 110 units of air at 140deg air temp bad numbers, but you get the idea

www.recustoms.com.au

sold

Also, if you were REALLY worried and didn't believe me - attach a diode to each of the outputs on the ECU and THEN bridge them after the diodes. Then the volts can't go back into the FC (even though they won't aas the FC with have Diodes and relays inside anyway to prevent this, and for normal operation) When I mean the volts can't go back into the powerfc, I mean if one output shuts down, and the other powers up, then if bridged it can't go from one active output into a non active output. They are outputs anyway - There will be a relay operating inside, and if the relay is off, then the volts can't go anywhere Hnmmmmmm Cubes must have my mum out on a date or something.

Bridging them won't hurt anything, as they are simply 12volt outputs. Ie: They output the same voltage. All they do is activate 2 different relays. The first relay or output activates a circuit that delivers the pump 11 volts. The second relay or output activates a circuit that delivers the pump 13 volts. Since the R33 GTS-T doesn't have these two "circuts" in the boot like the GTR it wouldn't matter. It would see the combined voltage of the two outputs triggers, and simply turn the fuel pump on, and leave it on. Because The First output turns off, and then the second one on after it, since they are bridged the relay in the boot only sees a constant "stay on" signal. I'm sure Cubes would agree with all of this. Where is he lol

Ah I read that last night. Must have been half asleep. I think the easiest way for the GTS-T is to bridge to two - cause that's how the Standard R33 Powerfc is naturally anyway. I tested mine at idle, and it was running 14.2 volts to a good ground (most likely 13.8 at its own ground) So if we bridge the two outputs, then its does exactly what the normal FC does, and simply runs the pump flat out all day every day. I think they do this with the GTR to prevent the pump being as loud as f**k all the time, especially when at idle. It's a shame we can't run the lower voltage at idle for quietness, as I don't want anyones mum complaining when I have the car running and her in the back seat. (car running for the aircon)

that trick was good in 1985

ecu is for sale here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=169959 anyone interested in the loom? it can be used for any type of inline patching or hacking etc ive gone and cut all the auto and non related wires to suit rb26

Brand new Apexi PowerFC to suit RB26 BNR32/BCNR33 $850 in Melbourne ready to go Unit model is GTR33L which is normal Ljetro. This is one of the new fresh items off the bat from Apexi, it has the new style board and new style NEC chip. Comes with box, manuals, stickers, the usual stuff. Orders from Apexi are approx 1.3 months long, so if you don't want to wait mine is ready to go. Only used for about 10 seconds on my Car as a quick test, so never been used. The unit is in Melbourne, Tullamarine. I am happy to ship wherever you want :sorcerer:

i am no longer doing this project. i tried it last night and was faced with some possible big risks so im not prepared to continue. i will sell my 26 FC and the loom adapter if anyone wants to continue or use it for other purposes. the loom adapater is an inline adapter for Rb26 or Rb26 or Rb25 to Rb25 we have cut all of the other excess junk from it so it suits rb25, all of auto signals have been cut so its only manual loom

well he could have said that, i was reading as if he had just tried this new remapped ecu

i had this issue when i tried a remap i had a series 2 R33 and i got a s1 remap ecu and it ran like bozz it was something about the MEC chip being the wrong one sorry i cant be of much help. it was from a guy on the forums, tashi i think his name was

its been out for a while, but so far nothing on it its only supported on the wrx auto for some stupidhead reason its an line loom splitter that you plug between your stock ecu and the device itself, much like an emanage or fcon my advice, given no one knows anything about it or selling it, forget it, dont even bother. wait a few years. i cant see it replacing the powerfc any time soon

your a crazy man, but i like your style best of luck big man, hopefully i can make it see how we go, all the breast and have some fun