paulr33

ah the premade up ones got a link? would be handy for others to see it

did another test today come up to an intersection turn on diff lock turn the corner in 2nd give it curry nice double wheel spin im going to look into getting the hydraulic fluid line for it braded so that it dosent rupture under pressure and also an oil pressure guage on it so it doesnt go bang from excess pressure

haha what a pisser im at the datacentre pmsl!! tops

yes at car boot up it sends a 12v signal to the pump its basically a preload pressure and diag check if the pump doesnt respond the a-lsd fails and the a-lsd light will come on

happy bday to you

the resivour in the boot right hand side is the a-lsd fluid. when i turn my pump on via the hardwired switch we can see the fluid level drop instantly. its definetly a-lsd fluid resivour. the diagram is from nissan fast which shows the a-lsd pumps, resivour and return systems. it attaches to the diff via an oil feed (in the diagram). the diff has the vspec finned cover despite being in a gtst skyline. i have ecr33 gtst skyline with a-lsd option fitted. what car do you have? the a-lsd in fast is listed as the torque split system. nevermind just read you have series 3 gtr33. my bad. yeah so gtst with vspec diff and a-lsd have that same resivour in the boot right side

this is my 2 page thread on manally override the a-lsd pump http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=128917

yes as i said. if a-lsd comes on while driving it means the computer in the boot has detected an error and gives up. this means the system will not lock the diff when traction is lost. slip will NOT come on if a-lsd is light up. you need to reboot the car to correct it. common causes for a-lsd coming on that i have seen: running the pump manually (computer doesnt expect it to run) doing a long burnout (over 30 seconds, a-lsd will fail) tps signal to a-lsd computer not clear or disconnected

if its oil and water cooled you definetly should have both connected if its oil cooled only, then obviously you can only connect up the oil feed

you can wait for andre to make his cable or you can buy datalogit datalogit will set you back around $500 australian andre's cable will be cheaper and upgradable

ok did some testing on some private roads. 1) sideways come up to a corner in 2nd gear leave puter in normal mode turn the corner and boot it, lots of wheelspin and it carries on like usual slip comes on and it operates normally. 2) takeoff come up to a stand still. stop. turn on diff lock. take off lots of axle tramp and a bit of double wheelspin a big improvement for traction 3) rolling clutch dmp rolling. turn on diff lock. boot it. a little bit of wheelspin it feels to bring the car around a bit more and direct it properly 4) roundabout come into the roundabout turn on diff lock while rolling boot it. a bit of a double wheel spin and glide out of the roundabout so far a big improvement just not sure how safe it is for the pump or how long it will last like this (being hardset to 12v on demand)

there is nothing wrong with shoutmode the figure is fine

sounds like a remapped ecu you would have been hittin the rich and retard otherwise most likely yeah its 208rwkw good power

completed the override button today. a proper button with led to indicate when on. its protected by a 30amp fuse and relay system so i can choose between computer controlled pump or manual run. i think the pump is preload system and isnt used when the car is actaully spinning. cos if i run it normally when the car isnt moving u can hear it come under pressure and load by the tone of it. you can see the lsd fluid level drop when the pump runs (right hand side of the boot). so it appears the pump is ok. i might do some testing later tonight when its dark. im going to pressurize it and then turn the pump off (well back to normal puter mode) and do a burnout and see how it goes. i think having the pump hard locked on whilst doing burnouts or "slipping" makes it worse. i think a hard pressurize before a burnout and then drop it to normal mode may yeidl the best results. will also try and plonk it on a dyno in the next day or so to see whats going on in the rear end

IT = inlet temperature RT = reference temperature RH = reference humidity RP = reference pressure TN = inertia setting RR = ramp angle PL = power loading CK = check reference

try uas in sydney www.nismo.com.au

you need one of the following 1) datalogit cable/kit 2) fc tune cable 3) apexi fc pro cable 4) kashima's cable

i think the next step is to lock it via the switch and then plonk it on a dyno to see what each wheel is doing i suspect the pump is ceased or not strong enough (really tired)

did some more fiddling today. we found the pump gets 12v at startup and then 4v at idle. we only saw this once and was unable to replicate it. we tried to watch voltage when the system went into slip but couldnt pick up any signal (not sure why). we ran a 12v off the battery directly via a relay switched from in the car and u can hear the pump come on and lock. it seemed to be heaps better and actually spin both wheels. but now im not so sure. the pump is making a wierd noise. tomrrow we'll pull apart the oil lines and see how the pressure is flowing around. maybe its too low. but the override switch is cool

another view of the pump system

this is the tech view from nissan fast its listed as the torque split system i was looking for lsd and a-lsd

next step is to see what pressure is coming out of the pump when it locks ive also noticed greenline list all their aftermarket lsd's as not suitable for active lsd models NISMO GT LSD Pro 38420-RSS15-B5 / 38420-RSS20-B5 (Differentials) ¥101,640 Selective type. 1.5 or 2 way. Kit includes, LSD oil, side flange, oil seals, gasket ring gear bolts. Not suitable for use with vehicles fitted with active LSD.

correct the a-lsd light will on come on when it fails. failure can be electronic signal problem from the ecu (it needs tps signal) or it can be its locking for too long and gives up. if you lock it for say 25 seconds it usually gives up and a-lsd fails

id be curious to see how it overlays against a stock turbo dyno run

actually i am confused. maybe just pulling it out, flushing and cleaning it and putting it back has fixed it? the car seems to be really nice gliding when i bag it up and it seems to really swifting sliding when its lost traction. i did a bit of a curry run today on the street out the front of work and walked past it just before and its left two perfect darkies on the road. so its locking it seems ill need to do some more testing