paulr33

more testing and playing around. it doesnt seem that crash hot on locking when going sideways. and it also seems to be be much better when its warmer/hot. i did some reading and found some pages about the right fluid to use in the gtr 4wd system. i have a feeling ive got shit fluid in the resivour and pump so im going to change it to gtr 4wd stuff. more to come when i change the fluid

why are u using resistors (sorry if its something obvious) but i dont see why? are they the wrong impedance or type? there should be no reason it will run mega rich or lean with different injectors, providing the right values are dialed in

whats different about it vs normal bnr34 ?

still got good results ?

well it certainly is possible. i just dont know how the engine would react with such low pressure. it could go bang or it could be fine. im not sure. like it might be ok for another week or it could fail in 10 minutes time (if in fact the pressure is true and that low)

well i guess all u can do is speak to your tuner or mechanic and go the guage is telling me high and low pressure maybe something in the internals is shagged or the guage/sender is on crack. best to check to be sure and safe

the pressure seems lower than normally across the entire range. like when you are idle or moving slow its too low and when you are up near redline (around 5k) its near 3bar i would have expected a little higher. the pressure seems to low to be normal. does it idle and run ok? i would expect noises, pops, smoke, bangs etc if the pressure was that low. i would also expect an idiot light to come on indicating low oil pressure if it in fact was getting that low (less than 1 bar) according to the guage. ive seen another r32 like this (gtst) and it had no idiot light on but mega low oil pressure. was checked by a mechanic and reported as OK

1.86 bar!!!! get the car and tune checked by someone else its going to go bang otherwise

there could be lots of things explaining why the power is lower than you expected. what turbo exactly? a plot of boost on the chart would be more useful. piping changes and plenum wont add any power so no need to worry about those. airflow makes power so work out whats going wrong with the airflow. what exhaust setup do you have. you should have 3" turbo back minimum

yep, sounds about right if its wrong you will run unlimited boost so be sure to monitor boost when you test it and dont keep it floored cos it will just keep rising past 1 bar

is your problem the stock box doesnt fit or the stock snorkel doesnt? you can make up your own snorkel if you wish. mine snorkel doesnt fit but the box does fine.

no picture sorry. what ecu? it would be strange to have bigger injectors and no other suitable modifications such as turbo's, ecu, etc. also given they wont run on the stock ecu, so if youve got the stock ecu still then your probably on stockers still

aphid is spot on pressure != volume on an n/a car anything on the intake is a restriction so they need as little crap in the way as possible. on a turbocharged car this is not true as restrictions lie after the compressor outlet.

welcome aboard

airflow meter. the cost of saving on an afm and gaining possibly 0 rwkw or even 2rwkw and dealing with the crapness of map sensor driven tune is not worth the $300 saved

hiflow the busted one or get the next size up bolt on garrett equiv

try nismo 550's from nengun.com or you can get s15 jdm manual 480cc injectors you should able to get set for around that price. yeah perhaps my injector price was a bit too low. say $800 for a new of newies then. gtr injectors arent a direct fit, you need to modify the injector driver or something (cant remember sorry, its in the tutorial section)

your source is incorrect, there is no way a map sensor can offer more load points than the same map driven by an airflow meter. have a read of http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=122642

why would you? afm is the best way to measure air coming into the engine. with a map sensor you'll actually loose tuning points

as i posted in the other thread stock gtst + front mount $800 + exhaust $1400 + ecu $900 + heavy duty clutch $1200 + hiflow turbo or gt-rs or gt2835 ($1900 to $2800) + airflow meter z32 $300 + fuel pump $300 + injectors $600 + cold air intake $300 + boost control kit for ecu $300 + tune $500 + suspension work $1200 total $10,300 should net you somewhere from 250rwkw to 280rwkw

right so the 3 wires for the map sensor so you use the factory boost control wires to run the solenoid just chop off the plug and match the wires

all car manufacturer figures are at flywheel. that hsv probably makes around 240kw at the rear wheels. a mildy modified gtst should be able to take it down quite easily. budget around 6k in mods and that should do it. stock gtst manual + full exhaust + boost controller + ecu + cold air intake + tyres + suspension + clutch + fuel pump + intercooler + tune should cost somewhere near 6k ish and get your around 200rwkw

I've seen drunker

if its an af guage off the stock 02 sensor (tapped onto the car's wiring loom) then it wont matter what it reads, its pointless and will never provide anything useful. you should not be using this to tune or monitor your car's af ratio

have u done a search? have you looked at the rb25 turbo upgrade thread? the how muhc power from a gtrs question comes up usually once a month at least so its been covered to death. have a look around, youll find it