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paulr33

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Everything posted by paulr33

  1. covered in the powerfc faq http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...powerfc-faq.htm Optional Kits for the PowerFC 32. How do I hook up the optional Boost Controller kit? 33. How do I configure the optional Boost Controller Kit?
  2. please see here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=120748 i recommend all skyline owners do it
  3. the guy at northern differentials who opened it up said that the diff is at the mercy of the pump. it needs good pressure to make it lock. if the pump or puter doesnt do whats its supposed to, then it wont lock very hard he said. he was very surpirsed when he opened it up. he said its a very strange diff
  4. what are you guys expecting in the comparison? its not like its going to make twice the amount of power
  5. a bit of wind but you can see it smoking from both sides and it left double wheel'd darkies that was feb 2006 when i had just completed the wiring look hack to make it work with the powerfc it was the first time i actually had it not erorr (a-lsd come on normally) with the powerfc so i had to test it and it locked awsome
  6. yeah mine used to perform kick ass we've seen it lock solid for 30 seconds odd and leave a big darky on the street so i did lock hard as previously and it used to glide when going sideways as well so it did have the capacity to as well i think it could be a case of the pump is lacking oil pressure or strong pressure so it doesnt lock strong enough
  7. got the car back. it feels the same. spins way too much for it to be locking. the light comes on so the puter i can only assume is doing what it is supposed to. i guess the next step is to work out the how pump gets power and try and hard lock it.
  8. try google or howstuffworks. its bound to be covered there
  9. alter the duty cycle if it comes on too hard, decrease the number if it doesnt come on hard enough, increase it its a ratio for open:closed for the solenoid it also has a fuel cut if you exceed target boost by 0.25kgcm2
  10. as you bend the afm signal, it in turns shows more airflow to the ecu. the ecu in turn dials in more ignition, sorry i should have said as a result of bending the afm signal. the safc itself doesnt add more ignition, the ecu does
  11. ok thanks. im not disagreeing or agreeing. i was just curious on the matter of the subject. i recall it was a heavily debated topic, and i remember there was no real final "this is why" answer.
  12. a similar side note we witnessed an r34 gtt radiator explode due to excessive water pressure + heat. it was later found the owner had an aftermarket apexi radiator cat, which was likely to be the catalyst. it held the pressure in, whereas the stock one would have just popped instead of holding it in. well at least thats how i think it went so aftermarket is not always good
  13. no need to upgrade afm. search for r&r on the stock ecu, as you are likely to encounter it. its commonly referred to as boost cut.
  14. paulr33

    Should I Buy?

    thats meanr34's car, dave. he sold it too mook
  15. paulr33

    Should I Buy?

    what car pat ?
  16. rightly so but if he wants to have a shot it at and has the right tools it shouldnt be too hard. im not saying to remap it without any tools at all im saying to remap it with the right tools. thats a little different to programming an FC without a handcontroller, of course you can't do that.
  17. the auto gear logic is inside the ecu on nissan cars. for toyota's its in a seperate ecu, this is why there is the auto powerfc's for toyota (see the jzx100 auto chaser powerfc). nissan auto logic inside stock ecu not present on most aftermarket ecu's toyota auto logic present inside external auto eco a lot of ecu's work with toyota auto
  18. hi all, just got the report back from the diff place. there is nothing wrong with the diff. the center is fine, no damage, no metal shavings, no signs of fatigue or mechanical problems. the diff like gareth said (and they've realised now) is pressure controlled by an oil pump. he said the next step i should do is test out the oil pump and oil feed. he said u could even just run an override switch to the oil pump power to make it lock on demand. so anyway ill get the car back tomorrow and the same 350 price. he said they will clean it up and change the oil and do some final testing but he said its likely the pump isnt providing enough pressure, or could have even ceased up. ill probably speak to dr drift and get him to help me debug whats wrong with the pump. an override switch would be ace
  19. yeah they dont fit the n1 critera, either being 48 front or 60 front. odd.
  20. right so why is it that a particular hiflow with plain bearing is more prone to bearing failure vs an oem plain bearing unit ? i dont get it? is there something im missing
  21. Hi, As most of us know (well at I least I think we do) most OEM turbochargers are ball bearing. There are some aftermarket brands that are also ball bearing (hks, garrett) and some that are plain or journal bearing (trust, kkk) and so on. I am curious as to how people using Trust and KKK are avoiding the plain or journal bearing failures that are outlined in one of our recent discussions -> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...5981&st=260 The reason I ask this as we were discussing this and it obvious the stock evo turbo is a mitsubishi unit, which I would expect would be the same as a trust unit. That is plain bearing oil cooled only. Is this correct? or a wrong assumption? Do Mitsubishi make ball bearing units? Are the trust t517z's t518z's for twins in GTRs ball bearing or plain/journal? Are the bigger variants larger td05's td06's ball, plain or journal? If they are plain/journal how do they avoid bearing failure when instant power off. Surely the evo stocker turbo doesn't fail when you turn the car off instantly if its mega hot? Are there any OEM units that are plain/journal bearing? How do they avoid failure with "instant-off" scenario's ?
  22. I believe this was back when a certain workshop believed the wolf had superior fuel injection control and was able to flow more fuel through standard injectors vs say a powerfc using the same stock injectors. so the result was they kept trying to get more and more power on stock injectors and it went bang, like everyone said it would
  23. airflow makes power, not fuel. you need more air into the system to make more power. once you put in more air, youll need to add in more fuel, otherwise youll max out your injectors. so no injectors wont add any power, but will allow your system to safely run more
  24. it cant be that hard. you just need to be a bit gung ho and take a stab at it. and of course be prepared to face failure if it occurs. i did my fc on the street and it turned out ace. i did ign and inj and havent had any problems. for timing you simply increase slowly each of the cells until it knocks (on the FC anyway) once you see knocking say past 10 or 15 then thats about the highest u can go. with inj you simply do it in real time on the street with a wideband and aim for 15s on light cruise, mid 12s on max load and smooth it around the middle. not sure how u would go about remapping in real time however
  25. he was having issues with warm start. i too experienced this issue and i think cubes did as well at once stage. he and i lowered the latency under CRANKING for warm water temp. this seemed to fix it. obviously you think differently? how would u fix it?
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