paulr33

safc is fine and suitable

oh his stocker died? yeah just get a 2nd hand one the difference in an r34 turbo is about 10 killowats so not really worth chasing, rare-er so it will cost more to buy usually

you can use the SETTING, WATER TEMP correction table to adjust how much timing and fuel is dialed in when its cold. left row is light load, right row is heavy load. its in correction value, based on maps.

if you want to make around 190 then theres no reason to change to a hiflow or aftermarket unit

12psi. running more than 12psi makes no more power. it just pushes the compressor pasts its effiency and it dials in more hot air. it you run it on 12psi with a good tune, good exhaust you should make just on 200rwkw or a touch under, 190 sounds a bout right

you can make 170 with the stock turbo im making 190 with the stocker fine comes on just at 3 grand

you can always change the auto box

have u searched in the for sale section? have you tried bd4s in sydney? (hks dealer) have you tried crd? (trust dealer) have you tried ebay?

alternatively s15 jdm manual ones are 480cc and direct swap theres a howto guide in the tutorial section on how to use rb26 injectors on rb25

care to post up your maps?

well if you can hear rattling, then its likely to be detonation. what ecu are u using? just take out some timing on the load point where you hear it knocking/detonating. its just as case of a few load points are a bit too advanced, retard them a tiny bit

the hand controller going to the startup screen is a side affect of the original problem. as it cant save any changes each time you power the car off it defaults back to factory settings which is, it loads to the MONITOR, SETTING, ETC menu. usually when you are viewing a particular screen and power the car off the PFC saves where you are at and resumes when you start it up again. this info is stored in nvram on the FC. if it cant write to this nvram then it just defaults to the main start screen each time. The PowerFC FAQ covers this problem and the likely causes

max power is one aspect of changing ecu's. you make any power you like on any ecu, it doesnt mean its going to perform well and drive wel. like ash said hitting r&r is pointless so best to avoid that like the plague. plus the car would drive 10 times better if its had its load points tuned correctly, be it piggyback, remap, stand alone. anything other than stock maps!!!

covered in the powerfc FAQ -> See: http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...powerfc-faq.htm Technical Issues 53. When I turn my car off I loose any changes on the PowerFC! Help!!

theres no need to add it with normal optimax, it will achieve zero. the stock ecu wont add more timing because you've added in octane booster. in fact the stock ecu has no concept of how much octane your fuel is, it simply looks at the knock sensor and if its see's detonation, assumes you are running crap fuel and drops timing and richens itself up. so in summary its pointless and achieves zero. sorry thats assuming you are using stock ecu still, which i dont think you are? even with an aftermarket ecu it wont gain any more power, you could advance the timing a little but you'd be better off tuning and running optimax extreme all the time. try a tank of optimax extreme and dial in 2 more degs timing, it should be ok

do a search faid its been covered a lot, or even look into the rb26 turbo upgrade thread and look at what other people are using for their ecu's in gtr's. i would go with powerfc but if money is no problem go motec

do a search for airbag by user ylwgtr2 he posted up a way to clear the self diag. try this and you should speak with a nissan dealer about the problem, as it could be dangerous (ie: airbags may be disabled)

on standard boost you will gain no power, you will certainly have more throttle lag however

try uas in sydney nismo.com.au

yeah this was covered last week, basically i reckon its all the same shit and its all around the same averaged rating. that is, assuming we are comparing true 98 ron fuels. sure there are bad batches of fuel and so forth but overall its probably the same shit. also BP dont have any crap in victoria so they share from other refineries, ie: they borrow tankers & crap

not sure to be honest, had a quick look around http://www.stretcher.com/stories/01/010226m.cfm try howstuffworks.com

out of the normal 98 premium they are all the same. there is little difference between them. ive heard of people saying their engine is tuned on bp premium 98 and they must only use that. its a load of poo and its all the same. baseline 98 premium, as long as the octane count is the same or close ish its fine and acceptable. ive tried many various 98 premiums all getting the same results. most people claim better economy and so forth on like vortex 98 vs bp premium 98 and so on, its a load of poo. but overall optimax extreme is the readily (easily) available 100 or 101 octane fuel that would be ideal

ill post up when the next one is coming up

yeah so its a case of someone has to find which wire # it is. when they do ill add it to the faq. right so the older pfc version 2,3 is the poor mans protocol and 4/5 is newer protocol. it sounds like its that wierd write by write method for the maps. how long does it take to load maps into datalogit when u do read all? r33 is instant. sorry more important how long does it take u to do a write all ?

if the ap eng rb20 PFC only has 3 pins for the boost kit connector then there must be a wastegate control wire somewhere on the loom that is a switched ground by the PFC to turn the solenoid on/off