paulr33

5100mv is the absolute max. you can keep making more power but you run out of load points. as once you top 5100mv the load axis will never increase anymore. you could in theory make upwards of 260rwkw on the stock afm but youll find once you go past near 4800rpm its probably going to flatline across the load axis, djetro style. the rule of thumb is no nore than 250rwkw, but its not like you can't make 260rwkw with it, or 270rwkw and so on, its simply that a rule of thumb for nice tuning. i see mine max out frequently at 190rwkw on the stock afm, but at like 5500rpm 250rwkw will certainly work, youll just have less load points to play with

yeah as i expected, its a linear scale that follows rpm, ie: its possible to activate it at 3100rpm with 3.8v on the AFM but possible you wont activate it at 5400rpm with 3.8v on the AFM.

well beyond the point of anything useful now

rich and retard isn't at 5 volts if that helps. i think its a ramp based scale where it decides to turn on rich and retard, i dont think its a flat 4.01v or higher trigger

any number of settings, adjustments, corrections, environmental factors can affect the power output so again. the stock power output or figure is simply that. its only useful if you keep going the same dyno with the same settings each time and compare the gains you make when you change stuff. car 1 makes 140rwkw stock on 123's Dyno car 2 makes 125rwkw stock on ABC Dyno's what does that tell you? absolutely nothing

ive been to a few dyno days and have seen 120, 130 and 140's it varies each time. i dont know how many you've seen? it really bares no relevance to this entire topic. stock power is stock power. who cares if if it makes 300rwkw stock or 100rwkw stock. the main concern is how much you gain when you make changes. the stock or initial dyno power is simply that, the initial starting block. mine made 141rwkw but that doesnt mean every r33 is going to make that. in fact it sounds a bit high. 130 i would expect to be the mean average across the board

120rwkw 130rwkw 140rwkw its all the same. stock power is stock power.

just get a workshop to fabricate some pipework. no need to change the plenum just to suit the pipework.

get a shell from a wreckers, get one of them to import you one if they dont have any stock. justjap, upi-imports, jspec to name a few in melbourne

I have confirmation from one member that this wire is the same on the GTR33 and GTR34. The same brown wire disables the circuit on these cars

try user: sydneykid text: sump

its been covered before do a search

please let me know what fuse was changed. will add to FAQ

the faq covers the stock maps question. its a basic map with a few minor adjustments. the main benefit is not hitting the rich and retard excess airflow protection. you require datalogit to adjust vct, adjustment of it is not supported by hand controller

airflow makes power. an intercooler doesnt add any more power. its certainly possible. but i would have expected wonky powercurves due to rich and retard. its probably remapped or something you dont know about the car. theres always a reason. there are no freak ecu's

no one came as everyone is weaksauce we still had a good time

a comment from the side bench. max power is simply that, a given power figure at any one point. too many see this as the most important part. average power makes a car fast not peak power. you should focus more on average power. a stand alone ecu tuned correctly will win hands down over a piggyback in a comprmise tune.

hi ryno i would be interested in talking more about your tune. max power is only one aspect of an ecu tune. theres lots more to be gained in the midrange and the important parts of a tune

why is it so complicated? i dont get it? is there something im missing? why make a plugin ecu more complicated than it needs to be

spot on. there is no different between stock ecu, powerfc, hks fcon v, autronic, moetc, emanage and anything else. they each have their own feature set and addons but the same principal applies. ign and inj maps. some other load bearing corrections and so on. they should each make the same power given tuned correctly.

also remebering that wether you have 200rwkw or 600rwkw cruising at 100km/h in 5th isnt exactly a load demanding environment. as long as the cruise AFRS are tuned it shouldnt matter how much power you make. so basing economy off highway results probably isnt useful. major fuel economy seems to sucks when you come on boost, as the dials in stacks of airflow

are you talking about under SETTING, IGN/INJ ADJUST ? (the temporary mode one) the correction will shift the INJ map up and down in whatever % you dial in the correction will shift the IGN map up and down in whatever degrees you dial in if you are talking about the injector latency setting screen then this again is across the board, but per injector

you should only disable closed loop if you can tune it with a wideband sensor. i found when i turned closed loop off in some bits it was a bit too lean. as with closed loop on it leans it out and richens it up where its needed to get ideal 14.7afr. thats my experience anyway.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=60654&hl=

do powerfc factory reset (youll loose all tune data) ETC, DATA INIT choose yes power car off turn car to ACC turn off boost kit, ETC, FUNCTION SELECT power car on let it idle for 10 mintes (dont touch a thing) turn on demister let it idle for 10 minutes turn on aircon let it idle for 10 minutes make sure idle is stable turn car off turn car on see if idle is stable if its not, post up what you have under SENSOR SW CHECK