paulr33

i am so in

do you mean the apexi powerfc PRO version to suit RB26? when the car is at 0km/h the rev limit changes to an alternate RPM setting under SETTING, RPM which can be set to whatever. so that when the car is stationary and you hold the pedal to the floor it will sit at the alternate RPM setting, ie if its set at 4300rpm then you floor it and the car isnt moving the rev limit will be bouncing at 4300rpm and be pegged there. as soon as you start moving, the rev limit returns to normal rev limit say 7800rpm it also does spark cut instead of fuel cut at redline

sorry it was in relation to airtemp testing http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/FC-Da...er/message/3403

whilst flicking thru the datalogit forums on some guys trying to get boost pressure displayed without buying the complete boost kit, and only buying the map sensor and wires i came across this (from steve, author of datalogit); Remove the Power-FC from the car, and power it up on a bench. Connect 0V and 12V from PSU. With a 1.5V battery, connect -ve end to PSU 0V, and the +ve end to a 1K resistor (which will prevent possible damage to Power-FC by limiting current). Touch the free end of the 1k resistor to each pin on the Power-FC while logging, until you see the air temp change.

I'm in. i wont be competing cos well, im a chook but will certainly come along for the ride and be moral support and party liaison. ill just book in annual leave

anyway moving along, IMHO dont try it, you are likely to make it go bang and regret it, unless you can really justify to yourself its going to work and AIRT is a sensor under MONITOR. on an BR26 (logs i have) airtemp hovers near 55deg for most of the time. under datalogit airtemp correction it takes out i think from memory -2 deg timing for 50 and -3 or 4 for 60 and so on. so it does simply backing off timing as intake temps rise but its certainly not a show stopper, well that i see anyway. the main thing i noticed, it doesnt advance timing when its colder, ie AIRTEMP of 12 doesnt yeild +6 deg IGN timing, only retarding when hotter, which i guess is simply the same thing. just dial in stacks of tming on the MAP and then when its nice and toasty intake temps take out timing as needed.

i would see no reason (that seems logical anyway) why airtemp would appear under datalogging logs and not under MONITOR. datalogit logs simply snapshot the MONITOR sensors and SENSOR SW sensors at regular intervals and dump the values. youll notice they plot some sensors twice and they have different values despite being the same thing. i think the precision isnt as quick as they would like it to be, thanks to vbrun time crap

yeah i tried the adjacent wire in case i had gotten it wrong at least im pretty sure i did, or i could have also possibly looped two wires on the FC loom as I had a few exposed wires and the water temp was on a pin probe type stick and i was tapping it into the pin sockets, so i could have ran it across two pins the water temp sensor fried itself when i put the stock ecu back in it reported (nissan datascan) water temp as -55 deg (some silly figure) the car also wouldnt start. i had fuel pump, spark (tapping on screwdriver) and it was trying to crank but just wouldnt. loaded up datascan it reported water temp as -55 deg. so i got a 2nd hand ca18 sensor and it worked fine. car worked, and FC worked once track was fixed. im guessing the sensor is in the same voltage range, someone with an RB26 FC could tell u what SENSOR SW looks like with AIRT working. my water temp was working fine before i tried this experiment and was always showing normal ish results on MONITOR and car starting always.

Depart time updated

to those considering it, go its lots of fun and the people are ace

you wont gain anything by enlarging it what are you trying to achieve?

haha my experience was funny but damn it sucked at the time. anyway heres a recap of what i did. 1) find water temp sensor wire 2) cut it 3) turned key to ACC and verfied water temp under monitor was --- (made sure i cut the right wire) 4) turned car off 5) ran the water temp signal to the airtemp wire (as per the rb26 loom) 6) turned car to ACC 7) airtemp was --- still 8) turned car off 9) tried adjacent wire next to airtemp (in case they moved it) 10) turned car to ACC 11) clicking relay, garble on hand controller 12) turn car off 13) replace fried water temp sensor 14) fix burnt track on FC 15) all back to normal now i know my downfall was tapping onto the adjacent wire in a bit of a hit n hope method and it died honkey but hey, i tried moving along, i dont see how the Air temp plugin method could work if there is no AIRT under SENSOR SW check rb20 ap engineer does not have AIRT under sensor sw check so i dont see the logic in how it would work? why would ap remove the sensor from SENSOR SW (given there were are plently of empty *** spots so it wasnt a shortage of outputs on the screen) but leave the code logic in the FC to still read the sensor and bring it up under MONITOR and make the airtemp correction table useful. i guess on the other end of the scale it makes sense, i mean why did they leave AIRTEMP on the RB25 version if the car never had an airtemp sensor

if the water temp sensor is busted; on the hand controller you have it highligted in black on the SENSOR SW CHECK screen under ETC on the hand controller under monitor for water temp you will have --- also the engine check light will remain on with a broken water temp sensor

what is your water temp when you have this problem? you could try trimming the warm start cranking for 80deg water temp or for whatever water temp you have problems with

the fuel regulator will be fine with the flow, it will just return any unused fuel back to the pump return line. have you checked for other obvious causes of stalling (it might not be the pump). stock ecu diag would help. also check airflow meter and plug

ferni went through this some time ago, suggest you speak to him or pm him, or he may see this post and offer his wisdom

i agree, the only way to prove LSD is to cause it to slip. nothern differentials use their dyno to simulate load and try and replicate LSD reactions but on the street is the sure fire way

what about the ignition firing? shouldnt you change that also? the boost pin or pin #25 is used for solenoid power for the boost kit, powerfcs with the 3 pin boost kit plug reuse this wire for switched power to the solenoid (powerfc turns it on/off to control duty). boost kits with 5 pin plugs runs their own ground and power for the solenoid

yep the ADR's clearly state a car must NOT operate with the keys removed. vic roads and ADRs do not always agree. how stupid

heavy duty clutch good tyres aftermarket ecu larger injectors airflow meter fuel pump any suspension work is a bonus. i suggest you do some reading on the tuning guides Munna has done as they cover almost everything you could think of. Boost pressure is irrelevant, airflow makes power. There are more suitable turbochargers to bolt onto your almost near stock car than a 1970's style plain bearing oil cooled turbocharger, why choose a 600hp unit when you only want 300hp?

added repairing powerfc notes expanded on airtemp support added knocking explantion with likely causes added advanced knock debug added datalogit AFR plot added rb20 vs rb25 pinouts added r33 sensor SW check page added R32 sensor SW Check page expaned on hybrid version support - differences between RB20 and RB25 looms - support matrix for features

the powerfc is the same for series 1 and series 2 (always has been) but it does appear to be an older version powerFC its likely the rb20 ap eng is from some other wierd variant if someone with RB25DET 2.20, 2.3, 4.35 could open up their FC and take a picture that would confirm where the Ap eng rb20 version is coming from although it should be noted that you can still buy new ap eng rb20 powerfcs, so i wonder what a recently purchased one comes from, like one in the last 2 years as the 78F3 cpu used (well in the R33 GTST) is no longer available so they had to switch cpu types.

sorry roy, yes i fried mine by trying to hook up the airtemp sensor. r33 gtst does not have the sensor and its not under SENSOR SW / CHECK

the only way i could see the airtemp wire in method working is if you have AIRT under sensor SW and its display a voltage. If the sensor is not present then i dont see how (logic would prevail) it work by connecting it to the right wire on the loom. sydneykid metioned he did it but i suspect he used an rb26 ecu and it would have AIRT under sensor SW

the PFC's internal method working out engine load is two average the two together and perform the calc against a fixed constant and look it up off the ramp. so if you have two afms are 3v or one at 3v its the same