paulr33

yeah if i could borrow it that would be tops then ill just scan it in

does anyone have a copy of this? sorry to dig up as i still wanted this for my wall. i brought the issue before this one, so ended up getting the wrong one. if anyone has a copy of this article please let me know, willing to buy it

do you honestly have money to waste?

how much torque do you think an xr6turbo makes at 2200rpm? probably just as much if not more as your supercharged setup

is anyone else interested? only 3 cars ?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...;hl=supercharge http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...;hl=supercharge http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...;hl=supercharge http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...;hl=supercharge http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...;hl=supercharge

i disagree with "instant boost" the compress still has to find into its effiency zone which isnt 0rpm. as the main belt rpm increases so to does the internal gear assembly driving the compressor faster and faster. you dont make 8psi at idle if thats what you are thinking, more like 1800rpm ?

right so what cost can you get the motec for? how much for install? how much for the loom? then how much to do base setup and tune

im sorry i dont agree. it is nothing to do with what the driver source is, its to do with how the screw compressor works. it adds more heat into the intake charge. just because the turbocharger exhaust wheel runs via the exhaust, this doesn't mean the intake charge is hot. the intake charge gets heated up by compressing it. to achieve compressor you heat the air up, or reduce volume, or a combination (im pretty sure).

fair enough. so why do u want to goto motec? i would like to also, but like many others can't justify the 3k price tag to get a unit, and then it needs to be tuned and setup. its not an out of the box plug and play start the car and drive off unit like the powerfc is

no it will not, you should have a good cold air intake system anyway but this wont be the cause of the extra heat in the intake charge, the nature on how a supercharger compressor works is different to a turbocharger compressor. this is assuming you are talking about a screw / wipple blower (common commodore + toyota ones). the certifigual ones are differently (look like a turbocharger)

it wont make anything useful past 12psi it will just dial in more heat

for those interested these tyres are in fact semi compound rubber, which is suitable for track usage. they are not recommended for normal street use. you can use them on the street but they react completely different to normal street radials. they are roadworthy and acceptable as far as ADR's and vicroads are concerned however. the expected lifetime is somewhere around 8,000k's to 10,000ks for a set. that would be normal street use i would expect, not sure how long they would last given full track usage. ie: not sure how many track days they would last

corrected boost control kit pin configuration mistake (as per above)

sorry yes the r33 gtst and gtr kits are 3 pin versions i only recently learned this, didnt realise i had in the FAQ that GTR was 5 pin kit. updated

powerfc FAQ covers a recently dicussed topic of dead FC's and how to debug them. have a read if you are at last resort and the car works with the stock ecu. I fried mine and repaired it, so have a few other members

the powerfc will come out cheaper and give you 80% of the features you need at around 1/3 of the total cost. is there a reason you want to go motec? for a true rally/race car, sure motec is tops. for a normal street car i dont see as justifiable, given the cost.

too much heat in the intake system, the compressor on the supercharger will really heat things up for you

curious question to those who've seen the wobbles with trailers. what tyre pressure were u running on the trailer tyres?

i agree with the others. mutlistage boost is pointless, just run the safest boost you can on your system. use your pedal to control throttle. boost doesnt make a car use fuel, drive sideways or run into a wall. the driver and thorttle pedal do. just get some practice driving and youll be fine. if you arent cofident with the power, then simply dont floor it. there is no other simple way to describe it if you floor it its going to bring on engine load which will make more boost which will make more air which will make the engine work harder dont floor it, it wont make boost

saturday 11th is my birthday, tops way to celebrate it

have a search on discopotato03's posts he has explained it a few times im pretty sure on how to read compressor maps and choose ideal flow for a given engine and turbo setup. make sure you set the search to his username only and you should find what you need. i can pm you my msn login but i dont know how to read compressor maps nor do i understand the full merits behind all the info, i just know if you read them you can basically pick what compressor combo you need make the power

im for big single

howstuff works or google on how to read compressor maps. work out how much airflow you need to make your power target and then simply pick a compressor wheel combo that suits that output and its efficency should be spot on. takes out the guess work. well you can get a big single, one amount of rotating mass, interia, friction also oil, water, ball bearing or two smaller twins, two amonuts of rotating mass, twice the interia needed, twice as much friction and heat loss. you wouldnt want plain bearing twins as it would preform worse than a ball bearing single i dont see how a large single vs twins would vary much in terms of lag. as long as you did your homework on the compressor maps and made sure it was spot on, i dont see how it would be more or less laggy, if anything i could only see big single as being better

boost is irrelvant, choose a suitable compressor based off compressor maps to get you the airflow you need. have you chosen largeish twins for reason? why not a big single, it could simplify stuff a bit and make it a nicer package possibly