paulr33

what are you trying to fix? theres no need to rebuild if theres nothing wrong

added "Can I use 95ron octane fuel (non premium)?"

if the sensor is not plugged in, then it wont flash. it sounds like are getting mixed up. are you seeing an orange flash or red one ? turn your car to ACC, take of all the lights lit up, then post on here and circle which one you see flashing and coming on. only the engine check light should flash lastly you can check all yours sensors under ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK and look for any black highlighted sensors, these are ones that are not working

ok you need to be clear on which one you are talking about engine check light or exhaust temp light your topic says exhaust temp and the content says engine check light engine check light - orange engine icon ehaust temp light - red box with squiggly lines engine check light used by powerfc to indicate; airflow meter maxing out injectors maxing out knock exceeded 60 the powerfc faq tells you how to diagnose and check for all 3 items and how to disable/enable them exhaust temp light; used by powerfc to indicate; exhaust cat is too hot either disable the sensor or get the cat checked (could be blocked)

nah it is, im pretty sure dr drift has a way to make vct work

yes show me how its done

you have a few options remap rb25 ecu - expensive, dont bother change to rb20 ecu & remap it change to aftermarket ecu change to piggyback

at wsid in nsw with ideal temps and traction its high 12s i ran 13.7 @ 105 and thats 13.01 @ wsid at that mph so you should be mid to high 12s

massive improvement, thanks heaps

GOT GATE? put that on there

your feedback has been noted, i have re-raised the issue

top find craved, well done

have you looked at the rb30det project? will probably cost less and youll get more displacement. also no need for n1 water pump, it flows less at lower rpm compared with the stocker, its only useful for track cars

yes non shootout mode vs shootout mode is likely to give different results. shootout mode basically takes the results and runs it through a weather simulator template to round it all to a nice even playing field. then if you dyno your car in tas on a winter morning and apply the shootout mode settings and dyno your car in sydney on a hot day and apply the shootout mode settings you get the same power reading

all that just because you have no throttle control? sheesh!

added engine control 10amp fuse bug

added "My car won't start when I plug in the PowerFC, but the stock ecu works fine" to the powerFC FAQ covering this issue

ok right, so 10amp engine control must be present, if its not powerfc wont work, but it works with stock ecu. how cool. will add to the FAQ

why not just get a gtr cooler, its probably better

good to hear your car wasnt taken or anyone hurt. did he flog anything in the end?

updated map co-ordinates for old school melways

the consult port doesnt work, as i said above. this means if you plug in a consult cable you get no connectvity and the software wont speak "consult" the ecu. you can use the powerfc hand controller as a guage display unit or you can get the fc edit software and achieve the same goal

the consult port doesnt work when you change the powerfc. most ecu's dont support the OBD functionality as they dont see it a priority, given most have hand controllers or laptop software anyway

thanks for the internal rb25detpro pics, its the same as the ap engineering model. its a 78f4 cpu which isnt reflashable and wont support booting from other eprom chips or other code locations. what is it you are trying to achieve? whats wrong with finding a real tuner (or doing it yourself?) surely there is a local dyno near you

i give up, seriously. theres no point