paulr33

the gtr twins are located after the front mount but before the plenum. im not sure how they are attached to the fmic piping. they are near the water bottle washer. i dont think it would be a direct swap and would need an adapter plate to mate it up. what problem did u have with the stock one?

the stock injectors could do it, it just wont be safe (or smart) and with a walbro behind it its a time bomb

yeah the racepace gtr is up on my wall 500rwkw daily. cusom race pace gt40, 3 litre bottom end

http://wbo2.com/

without engine management or any ability to the tune car its pointles really. i would recommend just selling the guage and moving on with things. that aside if you really must get one then you need to get the sensor. bosch have them as to do ngk and most other car electronics stockists. the sensor will be around the 400 mark ish and it could be more for the controller unit. ie: i dont think you can connect it directly to the af guage. and if u do get youll need to either tap a new bung in the exhaust dump pipe to mount it. if you replace the stock one with it, the factory 02 feedback wont work, so fuel economy will suck the wang, some controllers may have a narrow conversion which u could run to the stock ecu.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=122076&hl=

its the same solenoid and map sensor as the avcr controller. the logic code should be the same, it doesnt have gear judge however. set boost pressure, dial in duty cycle and your done

im making more average power everywhere on the standard turbo

yeah ive heard of that problem too hanving the hand controller unplugged helps wierd problems the hand controller sucks off 5v to run itself, maybe you have a voltage problem ?

if you want quiet and power then get a twin system. like a twin 2.25" system, should be quiet but flow plently

hi, my 2 cents follows. the powerfc (like most ecu's) is a manual only ecu. it does not take into account auto gearbox logic control. there is no techincal way possible that the gear shifting is identicial to the stock ecu. it doesnt have the code logic present to make it so. and even if you think and feel its all cool its putting extra stress on the auto box. im happy for you to have a powerfc, but you should be aware it is putting stress on the box. each gearchange is, as the ignition timing isn't cut. the powerfc (like most ecu's) will certainly work, the car will drive, it will run etc but it wont take into account shift control. the powerfc should work out of the box on the auto skyline. its no different to the manual skyline (aside from the gearbox and logic control)

hi, my 2 cents follows. any ecu is remappable, well almost any. it just comes down to how much its going to cost. dr drift could remap your microwave if you like. r32 is easy remap. r33 is expensive remap. r34 is easy (apparently) remap. by expensive its that the cpu is a burn once and the board doesnt support a reburnable chip so you have to make the ecu boot from some other cpu on an expansion board (im pretty sure thats right) and then burn once a map. in the case of the r33 its just easier and cheaper to get a powerfc. a remap for an r33 gtst could end up costing you 1200 odd easily. so its not worth it. it doesnt matter what ecu you have, if you have motec, autronic, apexi, stocker, hell a nintendo gameboy. sure each has their own quirks and bugs and featureset but they all achieve the same goal. it really comes down to how well its tuned. if you were to compare a pfc tuned by XYZ workshop for $500 then compare it to an r32 remap by dr drift. if the remap has more load points adjusted (tuned) then it will be better, perform better and be a better car to drive. it all comes down to the tune. its fine to have XYZ ecu but if its not tuned accordingly then its pointless

haha

side mount intercooler

*nevermind, didnt read the last post* i have this idle problem as well, im often pegged at 1500rpm for long periods, ill give it a shot

yeah they arent cheap and are really only useful when you can tune the fuel injection. its kinda pointless to have one in the car full time without being able to change anything. unless you have different ecu ?

the air fuel ratio guage is erratic as its read of the stock slow and narrow sensor. its not accurate enough to give any useful data on an af guage. if you had a wideband 02 sensor it would be spot on and accurate. you are best off either ignoring the output from the guage, change to a wideband 02 sensor or sell the guage and move on. the guage and the stock 02 sensor will never be accurate. the misfiring could be the r&r protection being activated in the stock ecu. try at 9psi and see if happens at that pressure

i will accept donations or contributions towards my new diff

the powerfc boost control kit is an optional add on for the powerfc. the base unit is unable to control boost pressure. its about $300 odd for the complete kit

i prefer hard dance or dance the stuff on vinyl warning under hard dance is mostly good

yeah a lot of my records are at least 1+ years old its just too expensive and im not that into it to keep buying the latest stuff plus i lack decent space in my room so i usually put one turntable away so dont use them too often. but it is good fun

piggyback emanage piggyback safc Safc $370 E-Manage Ultimate $650 GReddy Complete Harness Set $124 GReddy Supplemental Harness $65 Software $140 piggyback emanage Emange Blue $370 Emanage Injector Harness $56 Emanage Ingnition Harness $56 Software $140 standalone powerfc PowerFC $930 software $500

a new mix i made up today the 2nd to 3rd track really buggered up i lost track of how long the song had left, was cursing lots!!! anywhooo ABove and Beyond vs Andy Moor - Air For Life Dj Tiesto - Walking On Clouds The Green Martian - Industry Kraftwerk - Zombie Nation (slipping record) Paul Van Dyk - Time of our Lives Dj Tiesto - Silence Remix Dj Spoke - Igntion (SHOKK Remix) http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/mixed-20060805.mp3

thanks bb. the a-lsd is the diff in the vspec gtr. i think its the similar type but instead of mech locking it uses a pump to pump oil into the housing. it looks at the abs speed sensors to detect wheelspin on each wheel then locks when it see's wheelspin

try using IGN/INJ correction under SETTING increase the Kij value, see if it goes away slowly if it does, try decrease it a few notches (not lots cos youll lean it out)