paulr33

moved to audio by paulr33 from tururial

no bass junky had the r34 gtt kit not gtr sorry i didnt see you had gtr for some reason but gtr maf's are 65mm so youll need the 65mm kit to suit the stocker maf's but if you want to change to z32's later youll need the 70 kit if you have a powerfc you can use rb25's straight away (70mm kit) and then move to z32s later (both are same OD in mm) car afm size ================= gtr rb26 65mm gts rb25 70mm 300zx vg30 70mm vh41 q45 80mm

nah they did it anyway as they had it apart and were putting it back in. i didnt ask them to do that, was just part of the pull apart and diag. yeah it could just be standard diff oil, im not sure but that makes sense. what is puzzling you about the oil feed system? ill do some testing tonight, ill see how long i need the pump bofore the diff and fluid is warm, warm enough to make it lock. hopefully about a minute of driving with the pump on is enoguh to warm up the fluid

yeah the diff place refitted it and flushed out the diff centre and cleaned it up. they mentioned putting syntheic something orrather in it. i dont know how to bleed it, but there is a bleed nipple right next to the pump. im not sure if its attessa fluid that you put it in, it makes sense to be attessa fluid. it wasnt a direct oil taste (i smelt and tasted it) but more like an lsd fluid, i guess.

check the basic sensors (get a consolt diag cable/unit) do an ecu reset check afm plug try another afm check intercooler pipework

also noticed that you must let it warm up and get some heat into the diff before trying to lock it and go sideways. if you dont it just single spins. its only when the fluid is warm and been locking for a bit that its ready to lock. i tried a lock last night and it just single span for a good 10 seconds. but that was with cold diff and fluid

the one bass junky had was a 70mm kit but it comes with a reducer to fit the 70mm afm on. so it should fit the 80mm without the reducer on it.

welcome

Thanks to all of those who attended. It was a tops turnout, very big!! Thanks to Exedy and Australian Blood Bank for coming and giving us some information on on who they are and what they do. Excellent meeting, thanks to everyone who helped out.

rb26 pfc would be easier to adapt on the rb20 powerfc faq tells you how

not that i know of, theres nothing in datalogit or the hand controller for it. how is your stock ecu working if its different voltage?

a few people i think have done it, i am yet to see any confirmed people that have done it. its not to say it hasn't been done, its just to say i havent heard from them. i think it would be easier to use the rb26 powerfc instead. worse you could would be to fry the ecu or have the engine check light on always if you use the rb25 pfc (as VCT wont be detected)

the powerFC FAQ covers how to use the rb25 ecu on rb20 http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...powerfc-faq.htm proceed at your own caution however, it may have unexpected side affects

looks good. bring it tonight, will check it out the crappy idle might clear away with an ecu reset

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congrats mate. how long ago was the first car we looked at? glad u got it all sorted. are u coming tonight?

sure go for it surely its just bolts and a belt ?

happy to help. wouldnt know the first thing about it however

will get onto taking out the pressure signal sensor so a-lsd doesnt fail when i run the pump manually

there is a pressure sensor switch attached to the side of the pump if it detects pressure it turns on a relay to the puter. the puter must check this in real time and fail if it see's pressure when its not in slip mode. so we'll be attached this pressure switch into a our relay loom so its ignored when i hard lock it, this will prevent the puter failing when driving normally. cos i have to reboot the car when a-lsd fails, just a bit annoying.

t28 0.42 a/r front 0.48 a/r rear oil and water cooled ball bearing not sure what power they are rated at sorry

have ordered a poor mans auto guage oil pressure guage with elec sender so i can monitor pressure in the diff im worried it might get mega high when its hard locked at 12v

look into airflow meter, the z32 should be spot on, get it before you get it tuned. you might want to check voltage and pressure for the walbro, we've seen them as known baddies in the skyline, on standard wiring at least.

ive noticed when the pump runs for more than 2 seconds and the computer doesnt expect it to run it failds. it must have a pressure sensor and its picking up pressure when it isnt expecting it and thus fails. hopefully i can work out an override relay switched for the pressure sensor

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