paulr33

sucks hey. not much you can do really. that damage doesnt look that bad. i wouldnt think a write off ?

needs a bigger wing

hey ya'll another tops deca weekend. a big stack of thanks to everyone who made the day possible. hope the bbq was good, damn it was a lot of fun cooking for you lot. going out in shepparton is always a pisser of a night, the locals are so funny. good to see the purple beast in the flesh rosco. my body is in pain and im looking forward to all the photos.

happy birthday gents

Hi All, There is a job @ Melbourne IT for Unix / Solaris system administrator. The job is very focused on solaris and unix and it looks like a level 3 admin role. They are paying quite a lot (more than 60k). PM if you are interested and ill send the job ad.

I am not waiting past 8pm either

by all means wait until i completely sort it out and get it working 100% i checked the resivour this morning and its well past max. approx 5-6cms over max so the fluid is way out of whakc. ill bleed more out today when i get home. yeah a mate said there should be a nipple on the diff housing somewhere but there isnt and the fast diagrams dont show one either. only one nipple below the resivour, next to the pump ive got r32 gtr workshop, r33 workshop and r34 workshop none of them cover vspec or active lsd

yeah the service manuals dont cover the vspec system at all and how to blee d and diag it. since more testing i am back to intermittent locking agian. some times it locks, sometimes it doesnt. the first time i bled it and put new fluid in, it was ace and locked perfectly. now that ive redone it again its intermittent. so im bleeding it incorrectl. you can run the pump by either turning to ON (without starting) and leti it prime or i can turn my switch on which runs 12v direct to the pump.

It's come to my attetion that some people are copying the powerfc faq and using it on their own site/forums. whilst i dont mind you using it, i would prefer a hotlink to my site instead of the text itself. That way when its updated you point to the updated one. http://www.google.com.au/search?q=GTS25TML...r=&filter=0

also takes longer to fill up and theres usually only 1 or 2 gas bowsers vs 8 to 12 petrol

because he sells them to people to make a profit he wont release the code cos then other people can sell it and make their own. theres apparently a fair few powerfc cables on yahoo jp auctions so maybe look there if u are after one. or wait for andre to make the fc tune cable

happy birthday al

over it im american im fat and lazy i like jello hay ma' get off the dang roof

dont bother trying to make kashima's cable. it wont work without the pic processor code to go on the processor. he wont release it and you cant download. i tried and it doesnt work. youll waste about $80 in parts and have a dongle that achieves zero.

work? yes good idea? no cost effective? no safe? probably not if you drop the rb26 into your n/a gtt then you need to upgrade the brakes, clutch, tyres, suspension and whatever else is attached just sell it and buy a gtr

ill buy the two right side wheels providing they are ok

Guessing no insurance? Strip it and sell whatever parts you can off it theres probably quiet a bit thats ok. I mean if you have no insurance then not much hope, unless you want to try fowles auction group. They sell mashed cars as well. Hope no one was hurt

ER34 Skyline 414-AN008 AU $ 922.93 Nissan Skyline ECR33 RB25DET (For Version 1&2) 414-AN012 AU $ 922.93 http://www.nengun.com electronics -> powerfc

powerfc $900 powerfc boost kit $350 avcr $650 sell the avcr if you already have it and buy the powerfc boost kit. it works the same, uses the same parts and offeres the same control via the hand controller. it does NOT have gear judge however

whats your budget

t25 or t3 based. some are garrett, some are hitachi ball bearing, oil cooled, water cooled some unknown a/r spec (we think around 0.50)

actually it might be 5v, im not sure. measure voltage on the stock boost control wires or the solenoid. someone on here should know

This is not right. One wire should run to pin #25 the other should run to normal 12v power. It's hitting 1 bar as the solenoid isn't opening (wiring is wrong) so the gate isn't opening, which means unlimited boost. Run one wire to 12v power and the other to 25 and it should be fine. If you get unlimited boost, flip the wires around and it will work

id say 250k should do it

yes its possible its been done the japs love 0 to 300 attempts