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paulr33

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Everything posted by paulr33

  1. if you are around 200 to 220rwkw changing the to z32 wont add any power. all that happens when you max the stock afm is that it wont increase on the load axis in more, which means it will horizontal run across (map sensor style). so it will still work, make power, go fast and so on. youll just have a few less load points. a z32 gives you more resolution and more load points, it wont add a single killowatt.
  2. paulr33

    Semi Slicks

    suspension suspension suspension
  3. the sensor for the r33 is about $120 just go buy a new one if you are in doubt the time youve wasted on fuel and mucking around you could have started saving already :0 chances are youve still got the stock 02 sensor in there and it shouldnt affect how the car "runs". ie: there should be no reason whatsoever it will come on boost better, go harder, drive friendly or anything. any changes you are noticing won't be the 02 sensor
  4. the stock ecu will love it, it will perform really good
  5. do a datalog trace of AFM volts and REVS and let it run then fang around, repliace the problem and paste the data dump here i would to see the afm bouncing quiet a bit
  6. reversion of the air bouncing back past the q45 when its chopping its probably goin past the compressor and forcing pressure out past the afm. moral of the story, keep the bov its there for a reason ps; hows things ?
  7. yeah also have a look for OZGTR97V i think his name was he ran twin gt-rs on his 26 and said they were too big for a mild 26
  8. for the powerfc over 60 triggers the engine check light which is, "warning, get it checked by your tuner" the number represents the level of the knock, not knocks per second or amount of them, but how big it is. higher is worse
  9. MAIN MENU, SETTING, IGN MAIN MENU, SETTING, INJ it looks like an excel spreadsheet with a 20x20 grid note down the first 10x10 for each, might help debug why its so laggy
  10. on the rb26 in twin form they will come a fair bit late as they are much larger than n1's and 2530's. have a look in the rb26 turbo upgrade thread as they have been covered before. you really need a built engine to get the most out of them and rev rev rev. i would expect somewhere near 5800rpm ?
  11. i wonder what the first 10x10 cells of the IGN and INJ map look like? are you able to post them up, just by writing them down by pen ?
  12. maybe it's wrong, send him a pm
  13. Fuel pump - good for r32 or r33 gtst Injectors - good for r32 gtst Coil pack - no idea Intercooler - good for r32 gtst or r33 gtst Turbo's - good for twin rb25 (look in forced induction, a thead on it recently) Rims with wheels - no idea
  14. big or medium single easier cheaper less crap less hassles
  15. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=94073 post #6 by gary they arent even 480cc, 440cc for jdm manual s15 and the auto's are 370cc
  16. the safc settings are stored in nvram so it wont loose them when its lost power. the ecu will perform a quick self init / self learn to maintain stable idle but its far from "retune feature"
  17. do a search for rich and retard protection most people list it as boost cut drop the boost, its too much and the computer its going into protect mode try around 10psi
  18. any of the reasonable sized inlets will suit the z32. theres no need to choose a turbo based around the afm size and pipework. with the z32 you can use the standard afm duct piping or you can even go the apexi power intake or a custom one to suit the stock afm, as the z32 is identical in size and same shape/bolt pattern whereas q45 is completetly different
  19. the z32 is fine, its good for beyond 350rwkw and wont pose a restriction. people would likely use a q45 for larger intake turbo piping and more resolution. but with the q45 comes the issue of changing pipework and likely pod filter or airbox connect as its 90mm instead of 80mm so standard airbox, pods etc won't fit.
  20. yeah maybe i worded it a bit wrong but thats what i meant my bad
  21. yeah normal octane vs premium i agree on but people are claiming upto 60k's difference on bp premium vs shell optimax and other preomium fuels. that i dont believe
  22. then run it all the time and tune around it and never use 98 ron
  23. no power increase. use a local sau supported seller, much more safer and likely to yeild better results. probably a tad cheaper. i think gkteck is the local intercooler guy for sau
  24. i think under 300rwkw you gain zero and even over 300rwkw the gain is not worth $1000 cost
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