paulr33

post up the INJ map

no such thing, its all in the tune i found the powerfc heaps better on gearchange vs the stock ecu

yeah my batmbl split dump has a seperate pipe for the gate outlet and a divider between the gate and exhaust wheel

no, the tune is in nvram. maybe try opening it up as well

ive got a batmbl split dump and no problems at all. with controller in off mode it stays on the actuator spring rate with controller on it stays on 0.85 bar no worries, doesnt spike or vary. thats using a hks evc3 the older style one

do you have an air compressor? the manual states to pump in 7.2psi for the stock 33 actuator you should see shaft movement

its cool, just seems like an odd problem to have. something doesn't add up or we are missing some info. where is the actuator signal coming from ?

have you checked the actuator and flap for movement and play? the service manual show you how to check and test this. it sounds like its not opening correctly or not enough. there should be no logical reason an r33 actuator would spike to 12psi if its working correctly and has nothing intercepting the signal. where is the signal coming from ?

im not sure there's some 'phantom' problem here. i think its all normal, and operating as its supposed to. you've changed the r32 actuator and youve done exhaust upgrades. the r32 actuator is rated at 0.85kcm2 which is 12psi. the stock ecu has a ramp for "excess airflow protection" and its a scale that ramps up, as rpm and load increases. its not an exact cut based but a sliding scale. 12psi is certainly enough to activate it under most conditions. i can't see a reason why it would happen using the stock r33 actuator, did you confirm a max boost of 7.2psi when using the stock 33 actuator? my advice would be just get a real ecu, you would benefit from more average power everywhere once tuned and setup properly

i'd probably just keep uploading them to youtube then

auto has different actuator to manual

i had mine in the stock braket (not taped down or bolted) for about a year. no rattles, noises or anything

if its capable of 12afrs at 6 grand then it should be fine doing it at 3 grand as well. is it remapped stock ecu?

thanks martin ive got ftp space if u need some how many mb to upload?

read the powerfc faq (in my sig), it covers knocking and debugging it in detail

once again from the top there is no such thing as wastegate flutter

well that would mean that the cefiero rb20 afm is different to the normal rb20 in the r32. as to fit the z32 in a r32 you need the vl plug, as it the rb20 doesnt fit. got a pic ?

the rb20 and z32 afm have different plugs you can either get the correct plug to suit and splice it onto your wiring harness or you can just hack wires on it. either way achieves the same goal. the easiest way is to head to a commdore wreckers and buy $2 VL airflow meter plug, which fits the z32. then use that.

no idea, probably nothing. it could indicate something wrong if its a relay ticking on/off rapidly

maybe a ticking relay? try watching ETC,SENSOR SW / CHECK when you notice the problem, do you see anything going on and off rapidly (block dot flashing)

as in, inside the car or external? like engine noise? it could be detonation. MONITOR, 1 CHANNEL, and select KNOCK then press UP. then repeat and see what the max knocking value is

the powerfc doesnt bolt into the stock bracket, so it may wobble around a little. it sounds like thats what you are referring to ? try some electrical tape or a cable tie

if the remap is done correctly then the car is already tuned to its potential. if you need the safc to make more power, or you make more power when you tune the safc then the remap isn't done correctly. you can have both but there's no reason to.

haha tops some good ones in there

not something between s1 & s2 but auto and manual has different rated actuator. manual is 7.4psi and auto is 5.2psi