paulr33

hi, in my posts i have said it will work, the engine will start, the car will run, it will drive, it will turn off and so on. but what i did say was that it wont be the same as the factory ecu. this is because the powerfc has no logic shift control. you said 3 posts up that you are seeing detonation on gear change. this to me sounds like the following 1) driving along 2) we are at map points P8, R6 3) auto box goes, ok change gears 4) we are progressing in the map P8 R7 (revs going up) 5) auto box says to powerfc, hey im changing gears drop the timing 6) powerfc doesnt not listen to the autobox communication (its not expecting it) 7) still on P8 R7 8) auto box moves cogs around or does a gear change 9) knock sensor reports detonate detonate detonate 10) we now move to P7 R3 a map tracer of it would certaily prove the theory right or wrong. i feel this is because when you are on max load afm is seeing air come, so the P axis keeps moving down, revs going up so R keeps going across. bang comes a gear change, revs drop but load doesn't as the throttle body doesn't close on gear change air coming into the system is still quiet high, so its still way down on the load axis ie: timing too advanced during gear change. i am unsure how much load it will drop on gearchange via the afm, but a map tracer or even datalogit logs should tell you. im not sure (if my theory is correct) that there is a fix for this, as on gearchange on max load if the laod is still fairly high its going to plonk you somewhere near P5-6 where you need some reasonable timing, but on gearchange you need jack all timing, so if the PFC moves to an unused spot (which i dont think it will as P load never drops, thanks to throttle body being open always) then you can tune that spot to have jack all timing and it should be ok anyhoo if you can get a map tracer it would be good to see what it does on gearchange

there is no need for djetro powerfc the ljetro version is fine and will probably work better

it depends on what you expect. do you expect double the amount of power? most people do cos its twice as much and get disappointed. the unit isnt $500 extra just to make more power. its more control and a complete solution. it allows you to tune the entire car not just 5 or 6 points in the middle. so i guess it comes down to what you are expecting. if you are making 190rwkw then its likely you may make 190rwkw with the powerfc, but the tune can make a massive difference as far as how it drives, if it tuned to its potential, which means adjusting lots of load points

captain caveman is ace ive got him as my msn pic ps: i cant come tonight (email)

if the stock ecu see's too much detonation (not sure how much it considers too much) it will retard timing to protect itself

yeah if its not closed, it wil always bypass exhaust gas so it will be mega laggy to make boost and probably lack top end. it should be fully closed

do you want some realistic rpm response vs boost build? why not something remotely small like a gt30 or something should make good average power, i dont see a need for a captain insano 1.1a/r housing to make massive amounts of power, unless u plan to use it all the time

service manual page i recall reading somewhere it only rich or leans it out a small percentage its not a massive change so it would be odd to make it stall but the manual says so, so it must be the case. well you can always unplug it, the car should work fine, it will just waste fuel

i still dont see how it could cause it, but according to the service manual it can. so im wrong

02 feedback would never cause wierd idle hunting/stalling like that

with the heatshield off, yeah it will get bloody hot!!! it should almost glow red

heat shield on ?

if you post up the IGN and INJ maps from SETTING they are 20x20 cells we can see also post up the AIRFLOW screen when u press right on AIRFLOW inside SETTING

yeah its possible it blew on the dyno mine died on the street under load but it could fail at any time the parts to replace it are about $100 all up but u have to pull the turbo off, my dump gasket died but we replaced all of them cos it was off and easy to do

sounds like exhaust gasket is shagged mine died around 140,000k's the car sounds really "farty" and quiet loud when driving

if you increase boost pressure, as long as you are in effiency zone of the compressor wheel (the compressor map will tell the effiency zone) then it will bring more air into the system. so by adding more boost, it forces in more air. this in turn is shown via the airflow meter signal. there is always more air coming into the sytem, despite pressure being fixed. this is usually why map sensor setups are sucky with load points, as one boost hits target they dont show any more into coming into the system, even though more is coming in, but pressure is the same

the standard gear is adjustable its just u have to pull it out to adjust it ive got a custom bolt on thingy on mine to adjust the exhaust side bass junky made it up, maybe look into that as u wont need to replace it then

the load axis is based on what the airflow says, its nothing to do with pressure but amount of air coming into the system. if you force in more air, it will drop lower on the load axis

if you didnt have the problem before you fitted the controller then its the way the controller is fitted, or at least logic would say anyway. i cant see it being that actuator at fault, if you remove the controller does the problem go away ?

the problem is that auto gear logic is in the main nissan ecu and all stand alone engine management systems for nissan are manual, so it will be harsh the auto box. you need a piggyback system

there are no suitable stand alone ecu's for nissan auto

powerfc

its like running an operating system that is the best in africa but as soon as you move to any other country, no one knows it. bugger that

and then when something goes wrong ?

but what good is an fcon if no one is around to tune it?