paulr33

yeah if your floor, its going to pretty much run rich straight away as long the as the smoke is black its ok, just rich and thats the stock ecu so its normal (ish). its either the pump or the fpr, try the pump it sounds likely. mine was leaning out around 180rwkw

i dont see how it would give any different results. the noticable difference is the lack of seperate ground for signal and power on the s2 afm. the powerfc and other ecu's dont differentiate between s1 and s2 r33s and airflow meters so logic says they are the same, just wiring and label change. i dont see how it could give more resolution. ive seen a few stock afm s2 pfcs make similar power and max the afm as s1's do

rb20 and rb25 s1 are green rb25 s2 is pink in case u were wondering

ignore what he said. making max power is useless. average power makes a car fast. the safc should give you some good midrange and better overall average power, so yes the safc is a good cheap upgrade and should get upto or just on 200rwkw. you can use the safc to work around the r&r in the stock ecu to an extent so yes it can allow you to run some more boost

if the AFR is lean, then its lean. even with 45% correction applied or being in the wrong shoutmode the car is still too lean. this would explain the power it is making. fix the leaning out and youll go back to around 170rwkw i would expect

what pfc (ETC, PROG VERSION) what intake piping (stock turbo duct?, custom?) what air filter (pod, box, panel filter, open mouth?) where is the afm (in front of turbo, after intercooler?) can u get a photo of SENSOR SW / CHECK with car running do u have someone local with a knock working q45 AFM ? can u try the stock afm back on it ? does it give similar readings?

well, the idle will be shagged if its saying 2.4v of AIRFLOW to the powerfc and there actually is jack all. its probably on half the load axis at idle. ie because its saying 2.4v on the load axis, its like halfway. it would be mega sucky idle, suprised it even runs

clean the afm, sounds dirty

a photo of SENSOR SW / CHECK with the car set to ON but not running and another pic of the car running, that shoud help. also confirm what is under SETTING, AIRFLOW

yeah off the bat 2.4 seems way too high i'd be suprised if it was correct if you rev it a few times does it always go back to the same value? are u sure q45 is selected? no pipework leaks around the afm? whats the voltage with the car set to ON but not running

is yours really high or something ?

the mafia has one

[ Rev. Limit ] レブリミット rpm [ the F/C A/C ｵ ﾌ ] when decelerating when the air conditioner turns off return rpm of fuel cut [ the F/C A/C ｵ ﾝ ] when decelerating when the air conditioner turns on return rpm of fuel cut [ the IDLE A/C ｵ ﾌ ] idling rpm when the air conditioner turns off [ the IDLE A/C ｵ ﾝ ] idling rpm when the air conditioner turns on

well to state the obvious, it has an error rtfm and debug it from there

happy bday champ have a good one

its something to do with the engine, coilpacks, injectors etc. the ecu won't just develop a problem, and being stock 33 ecu its unlikely to be remapped. even a bad tune wouldnt usually cause that. the obvious things to me would be: leakdown / compression test check coilpacks find out why #2 is shagged

4am?

by stock boost do you mean r32 actuator or r33 actuator? if r33 auto or manual actuator, as they are different

theres no need to use optimax extreme with the stock ecu it should work fine on normal 98ron premium you can use optimax extreme if you wish, but wont gain anything

no dramas i could be completely wrong

that doesnt mean its a good idea

well if theres no restrictor then how is it going to 1 bar? the stock actuator should open at 0.75kgcm2 which is not near 1 bar

and revert it back to stock boost stop messing around with 1 bar boost its likely to go bang when you are testing various things

as a brutal hack / test try undo'ing the pods and just leave the turbo's open mounted (jap style) does that change anything? id almost %100 say its the pods / pipework somehow

my advice would be to drop the restictor or whatever you have done and go back to direct actuator mode, that is stock boost. that way it should be a clean slate. then if you can replicate the problem then something is wrong with turbo setup or intake. if #1 compress surging, try lowering the boost, see if that helps the compressors shouldnt surge under normal conditions could indicate compressor failure, out of balanace or chopped wheels again assuming the same problem occurs on say stock boost if #2 try seperating the pods or putting a shitload of pipework between one of them or both them, try like some good sized pool shop vacuum hose for one of both of the pods, try bending the pods intake pipes. anything to alter the intake path of air to the compressor inlet snout again this is only what i think, it doesnt mean im write or correct at all