paulr33

i guess the question is, why do u want to change to djetro? there is no reason whatsoever it should make more power over the traditional ljetro powerfc. the powerfc faq (in my sig) covers the djetro vs ljetro topic quiet a bit, you should have a read of it before you make your decision. there are known compatability issues with using djetro or map sensor based ecu's on mutlitple throttle bodies like the sr20 gtir and the rb26 gtr and things like different plenum, throttle body changes may workaround it, but is it really worth it? thats like $5k+ of crap to change, all for what?

thanks guys, can anyone give me pinouts for rb26 maf ?

a catch can, does exactly as the name implies. it catches oil in the intake. if you have oil in the intake, something is wrong and you should focus your efforts and $$ on fixing that. using a catch can simply masks the problem and gives you the "oh its ok to have blowby, the catch can fixes that" type of attitude.

well its like anything with vicroads if theres a big accident in an intersection and its a fatality all of a sudden they want to invest a quater of a million to redevelop the intersection to make it more safe. they probably dont even know why the accident occured, let alone it could actually be the drivers at fault and not the intersection

doesnt seem all that useful it shows that 2510s and 2530s have same power level but 2530s and 2540s have worse response. i didnt think the 2510s made that much over stock, if anything?

when u find out, let us know and ill add to PFC FAQ

www.nengun.com http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/30 HKS GT-SS Turbine kit to suit a Nissan Skyline GTR BNR32, BCNR33 and BNR34. The Turbo Kit contains: - 2 metal- type exhaust manifold gaskets, which is resistant to manifold leak are included. - All gaskets, bolts are included into this kit. Everything that is in the picture. - Actuators attached AU $ 3,120.84 delivered

gcg might be able to rebuild them for you, depends on whats "failed" could be bearings, the wheels, the shaft and so on... find out whats busted and speak to gcg in sydney, they should be able to give you a price. if its unfixable then gt-ss's are probably suitable, you can sell one of your work 2540's for some cash so its not as bad. i dont think gt-ss's are $4500 though, i think the UAS pricing is a little "high"

do 2530s and the garret 2560s have the 60mm compressor snout ? or is it larger on those units?

our pleasure as sarah said see you guys in nov

centreline can sort out axle tramp

are u going the beglium on st kilda road if so ill come for a drink or 2 and say hi wont be coming the movies tho "uhh what number is this car 55 hi this car 55.... we're in the a truck"

ah ok, what about label? anyone send me pic of stock rb26 afm label and wiring

anyone?

ramp rate (RR) being different will also alter the output figure. higher ramp rate means the dyno pulls the car harder on the rollers, this can affect how the engine comes on boost, as more load means more boost. also the shootout mode can correct the figures accordingly SHOOT4 SHOOT4F SHOOT6 SHOOT6F SHOOT8 SHOOTF and so on, the F being forced induction turbo or supercharged. so if your car was done in say SHOOT6 then you will get different results if you did your car in SHOOT6F and so on

yeah maybe thats why some operators keep IT and AT the same to rule out this incorrect "correction". anyone got a dd manual handy?

i'd say correct http://users.bigpond.net.au/btak/33some/dyno304.gif http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/WHITER33/300.jpg possibly bogus http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=20772

i think a large number of dyno sheets have incorrect IT and AT out of all the ones i have looked at, i dont remember seeing many that have it correctly. one would always expect IT to be higher than AT, just not sure how much. i dont think any of my sheets have IT and AT correct

yeah that makes sense (to me at least) putting the air temp sensor after intercooler to measure air going into the plenum. the gtr ecu (and PFC) do this and base correction around that value. to me it make sense to correct up the power readings for higher intake temps, as this is the typical results you would see on the street. the problem is much more obvious when you see an unshieled pop setup make 200rwkw as the bonnet is open, the airtemp sensor is right next to the AT sensor on the crossover bar next to the dyno computer and both IT and AT are the same, or 1 deg apart. in normal conditions on the street, it wont make that power, as its sucking in hot air. hang on, higher IT, adds or takes away power?

i dont see a major problem with IT being 55. to me its more realistic if anything. if you were to place a temp probe under the bonnett, then this would be the realistic values you would see. so IT really comes down to how the car is setup, ie: unshielded pod, it will certainly suck in mega hot air, so 55 is acceptable. if its the stock airbox and snorkel then i guess placing the sensor at the opening of the snorkel would give the best result, i dont think 55 is correct for the opening of the snorkle. did u see where he placed the airtemp sensor dezz?

ace i forgot about the nismo's can someone give me stock rb26 picture of label wiring diagram nismos for rb26 picture of label wiring diagram are they 65mm?

looks like the stocker ceramic wheel a good ugprade would be an rb25 turbo

yep had tons of shit inside it was pretty ace

s1 / s2 r33 hand controller means nothing. it depends on what version PFC it came from. if its coming from a newish PFC then it wont work as its the newer style FCC3 so it will just boot to the logo and freeze. you need FCC NT which is the 1st gen R33 so someone who has PFC versiopn 2.x 3x. and 4.x their hand controller will work. someone who has PFC version 5.x wont work

happy bday champ what a great day for a birthday the whole country celebrates it have a good one :sorcerer: