paulr33

maybe around two weeks it would drop a bit of its just sitting there in the tank?

are u sure the stocker isn't suitable? have you measured pressure drop in and out? there are a few guys running that turbo combo on the stock intercooler still.

also take into consideration if you get an r32 gtr and take it on the track with stock turbo's expect failure of them or at least have some money on the side. you are very likely to see the exhaust wheel(s) fail which will end up meaning a rebuild. it may even pay to rebuild it before you start with steel wheels to avoid that nasty possibilty. as with 15 year old + ceramics heat will be the killer. dont just run 1 bar and hope for the best, cos its probably going to fail sooner or later also there are some inherit oil issues in the head, which is covereed in a few threads in forced induction, so be sure to read those before you fang around the track.

yeah as mad and the others have said just get an safc of similar device make some more power in the rev range and avoid r&r at the same time. magazines often leave out important facts or put down big power gains to little $5 devices, and not revealing the true gain of power.

it doesn't do anything at all. it doesn't smooth out the power or change it. it wont add 10rwkw or 1rwkw. it simply clamps the afm voltage when it goes near its peak value. what happens is as you driving the airflow meter shows to the ecu how much air is coming in. when the value gets high on certain rpm levels (say near 4.5v, max is 5v) the ecu goes hmmm too much air is coming in, something must be wrong so it activates the rich and retard protection, to protect the engine. the result is a flat feeling and probably pops and farts out the exhaust. the ecu dumps timing and richens itself up to all buggery in a hope to make sure the engine is safe. the fcd or "fuel cut defender" sits in between the afm and the ecu and says ok when i see 4.2v or higher (or something to that affect) ill actually tell the ecu its always 4.11v and won't tell it anymore that than. so the engine runs along power comes on, air is coming in, goes to 4.11v and the fcd clamps the voltage and says to the stock ecu, hey its still 4.11v keep going, so the stock ecu does and thus you work around the stock rich and retard protection as the stock ecu never see's the higher afm voltages. it wont magically add power or make the ecu think it can make more power. there are similar devices like the apexi safc that do the same thing but they actually bend the afm signal to show less air is coming so that ecu goes ok so i see 3.1v of air but in actual fact there is really 4.2v of air so it uses more advanced timing and leaner fuel mixtures and as a result you make power. there is no logical reason you would make more power by installing an FCD and nothing else. the only time you would see this sort of gain is if you are maxing hitting the rich and retard protection. and in this case the modifications that are on the engine, are causing it to make more power, as airflow makes power. the FCD is just tricking the engine to not activate its self protect mode

to get the most out if it you will most likely need: ecu, injectors, fuel pump, clutch, afm, tyres, boost controller, intercooler, exhaust gcg hiflow $2000 hks 2530 $1300 will work with the usual basic upgrades r34 stocker $650 r33 stocker $500

no the "added boost" and "supporting modifications" is making the car make more power or "add power". the fuel cut defender is exactly that, a cut defender and its nothing related to fuel cut. its an excess airflow protection over ride device. magazines sometimes do get stuff wrong, or word it incorrectly. it clamps the afm voltage at some point in a hope to avoid the stock ecu activating its excess airflow protection.

how much money do you have and what mods have you got

a fuel cut defender will add no power it has no capcity nor does it do anything to "add power" all it does is clamp the afm voltage so that the stock ecu doesn't hit its rich and retard protection.

you dont have to go the jap brands i choose to get a batmbl split dump pipe cos i knew that would fit and mate up to the stock turbo housing then got a local exhust shop to supply and fit a 3" cat back system this was cheap and they didnt have to muck around with dump pipes and crap. all they had to do was match up a 3" hiflow cat back system

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does it tap into the factory 02 sensor? if so it sounds like its guessing engine load based off the narrow sensor, the apexi one does this. if not, it might be tapping into rpm and speed and guesstimating engine load based on these. if it is, just unplug those wire taps and it shouldnt count up, well based on nothing

it will run across the map instead of moving diagnoally down it has the potential to lean it out more than normal

yep spot on its basically a signal bender as far i understand it it probably just clamps the afm voltage when it gets near 4v ish

are u sure we are talking about the same person ?

10psi should be ok, if you encounter rich and retard protection (flat power loss feeling) turn the boost down until you avoid it. some cars hit it at 10psi, some at 12 etc. its related to airflow not boost so its not always exact. the wires and plug are for the seat belt sensors. used to show the seat belt unplugged light on the dash console

less than 1 month peoples

time's runinng out, cmon poeple!!

looking forward to meeting the qld crew paul & sarah (paulr33 & sarahb) from vic

this place does good pizza too

haha was a good night how is everyone feeling today ?

congrats and well done

no cold fusion sorry

get rid of the ceramic exhaust wheel too before u use it

it could be a similar type of bug, the fix is like a DIY homejob. maybe give it a try, can't hurt and should cost $0