paulr33

hi from my experience and fiddling with the active lsd system it is the following its not a mech lock lsd its not a viscous lock lsd its a hybrid of the two internally it has a normal lsd centre that is "locked" by hyrdaulic fluid the hydraulic fluid is the same attessa fluid in the gtr (castrol transmax Z) when the system detects tractions loss via abs wheel speed sensor is turns the a-lsd pump on which applies fluid pressure to the housing. the pressure causes the internal cogs in the lsd housing to lock. thus you get a mech lock on demand based on wheel spin. the system works really well when it works, mine is internmittent single spinner as i think there is an airlock in the system somewhere ive got a manual override button for my vspec system so i can manually lock it on demand. that is mech lock whenever u want, asssuming the pump can provide the pressure to lock it. works pretty well if A-LSD is ON then it means system failure and it will default to single spinner mode if SLIP is ON then it means the system has decided you've lost wheelspin and its enabled the lock system, that is, its turned the vspec or a-lsd pump on the best way to test it, is stop, turn steering wheel full lock, floor it, if it works SLIP will come on and it should glide sideways at least a 180deg spin almost if its not working it will carry on, tramp and hardly move at all, that is, it will stay in single spinner. if A-LSD light is on, dont bother, it means the system has detected an error and has given up

nope unless u know a local blitz dealer ie: dont bother get a stand alone or piggyback with a stock ecu

bang bang stutter box pro launch yeah its spark cut so bang bang out the exhaust housing pre-req's are basically stand alone steel exhaust wheel no cat as you need to make sure the afr's are safe to keep the heat in the exhaust side down

fixed spelling errors changed logo expanded on supported models list expanded on australian version "model" cleaned up the headings added complete optional parts list added autospeed ariticle added line spacing and HR rules added build your own AVCR boost kit under "How does the AVC-R compare to the PowerFC boost controller kit?" added installation checklist added powerfc roadmap for menu options added changelog shortcut

all figures in magzines, flyers, brochers, dealers etc are all flywheel ie: at the engine / clutch system and not at the rear wheels. a stock gtst in 4th will make around 130 to 140rwkw. all the hsv's that have the 250kw badging and "figures" are all the flywheel so they would make around 200rwkw. a 200rkw skyline would smoke it no worries

it could be many things, the seal, the oil lines, the banjo fittings etc your best bet would be to speak to slide and sort it out

Have a read of: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...powerfc-faq.htm Advanced Operation 36) Does the PowerFC have any laptop hook up options or software

the bearings need to 'wear' in? thats pretty wierd, aren't they balanced and run up on the machine to a few thousand rpm anyway? normal hiflows don't need to be run in do they?

yeah try it, but if its got a 1 bar actuator on it then u cant run less than this

the new turbo will change the airflow patterns dramatically compare to the stock ecu. the r&r is based on airflow at certain levels, so as the engine comes on load more airflow comes than the ecu thinks is acceptable so it activates its self protection to make sure things are safe you can turn the boost way down but depending on what actuator you have it might not help, ie if its a 12psi actuator you will probably still hit it

well done mate good luck in your new position

does the emanage save its settings in nvram (one would assume so). do u have the emanage software + cable? can you check its program/tune is still present. sounds like u might be hitting r&r protection from the stock ecu, perhaps the emanage settings have been reset so now its hitting the stock r&r on the stock ecu

happy bday champ what are u upto tonight

someone else asked me the same thing this morning so ive got the hack up diagram i did its basically the 20x20 map across the top row is revs and down the left side is engine load (or airflow) as the engine goes through changes in its environment (rev & load) it will move around on the map. at any one time it can only use 1 cell at any given time. u can use map tracer (under MONITOR) to see what cell is currently being used. the highlighted cell indicates what cell on the 20x20 map is being used for INJ and IGN so say at 3523 and airflow load is say 33% of the AFM max (left row is not AFM voltage) then it will somewhere near load point say 8 for rev and somewhere near say load point say 7 for load so on the map we are position 8x7

Evolution 8 Turbo = TD05HR-16G6-9.8T (GSR / USDM E8) TD05HRA-16G6-9.8T (RS/RS2) Nozzle Area (cm2) = 9.8 Turbine = USDM EVO 8 & JDM GSR =Inconel (steel alloy), RS/Rs2=Titanium alloy. Compressor = Aluminium, 68mm wide Evolution MR aka "8.5" GSR = TD05HR-16G6-10.5T or TD05HRA-16G6-10.5T (Ti Alloy option) RS = 6MT:TD05HRA-16G6-10.5T or 5MT:TD05HRA-16G6-9.8T Nozzle Area (cm2) = 10.5 or 9.8(RS-5speed) Compressor = Aluminium, 68mm wide All Evo 4-8 Turbos are twin scroll designs meaning that the engines exhaust is divided into two channels (see first pic). As the engine exhausts in pulses.. its supposed to result in quicker spooling. From the Evo 4 onwards, the Turbo spins in the opposite direction, i.e. Anticlockwise (hence the R in the turbo name). The Titanium Alumnide alloy used in the RS/RS2 and some GSRS (factory option) has less inertia and thus spins up around 500 rpm sooner. These Titanium turbos can be indentified by the A in their name.

pretty sure its titanium compressor when exhaust wheels so tons of boost is fine along with antilag and spark cut also i think its exhaust housing is twin scroll

stockers are 370cc just buy nismo 550cc direct drop ins and sell your old ones

set it to snow limiter launch let us know how it rips

no problems. let me know how you progress. when using the temp ign adjust it will actually change the idle timing so you can "invent" lumpy 'cammed' idle by using the temp ign adjust. on the IGN map the PFC ignores any timing u set for idle so at cell 2x2 you can put say 22deg IGN timing and it wont apply it to idle. idle is always 15deg base. but if you use temp adjust, it actaully applies to idle so if you do -2 your idle comes out at 13deg which will give it a lumpy gurgle idle, so don't stress too much. The same occurs if you have someone dial the crank angle sensor back as a temporary "retard the timing hack". As the PFC just expects base timing to be right it applies 15deg but if the CAS is backdialed a bit its actually a bit less. mine is like this, so i have lumpy gurgle idle, its amusing but neverthless thats how it goes (at least how i understand it, and seen it work)

good this shows its most likely timing related you can't easily with the hand controller, you need to edit every value or keep using the temp adjust. the real thing to note here is its only knocking in one or two spots, so it would be un-necessary to drop the whole map 2 deg. you have a 20x20 cell for your ign so it would pointless to edit 400 values and take out 2 deg. once we work out where the bad spots or cells are, we can take out 2deg for those, instead of the whole map (think of an excel spreadsheet) This is a bad idea and will likely make it worse or amplify the pinging/knocking/detonation. you should under no circumstances load someone else's map. the only time you would do this is if you were experienced in watching and checking for detonation and had a wideband sensor handy. Its likely just a combination of increased intake temps and a few cells a bit too far advanced under colder weather they are fine but under warmer weather predetonation is more likely its no big deal and easily fixed so don't stress

ok first off try -2 deg next time and see if you have similar results its likely (almost always) that in one or two spots on the map the timing is a little too far advanced for higher intake temps. as the warmer nights and weather approaces the intakes temps are a bit higher. what airtemp are u seeing under MONOTOR, 1 CHANNEL, AIRTEMP when you are seeing the knocking over 60 with normal -0 deg timing adjustment? If we find -2deg is ok then we need to work out where on the map its knocking, which isnt too hard and I can walk you through it, or if you like we can meet up and do it, upto you. its probably better if you learn it that way u can control and decide what to do. so 1) try -2 deg see how that goes, note what knocking you see 2) try -0 deg (no correction) see how that goes, note what knocking you see and airtemp

gimme 5

good to hear you are ok if i see them they will cop some fury and a call to the police

also tekin, when you are seeing these knock levels what is airtemp under monitor? you can set ign retard in the PFC based on airtemp's but its only for 70, 80, 90deg plus. so if its 55deg theres no correction

yeah it will be timing related i saw 65+ the other night take out 1 deg timing and it drops to low 20's so a few deg's can make a bit of difference