paulr33

ah yeah good point 5 the only thing ive changed is the rear pads and they have been on the car for a long time since 70,000, the odo is now on 150,000 at least im pretty sure they havent been changed

can you actaully look at the guages legitamtely and concentrate on driving at the same time? i find even looking at the factory clustor takes away my focus on the road ahead for a brief second

my car has done 3 deca's and d4d and i have no issues with tyre wear, brake wear or any system problems. normal service @ 10,000 and just crap pads and usual bluids.

sorry perhaps i should have been more clear. all the kits use the same solenoid and map sensor but different wiring looms for the boost kit. type #1 3 pin boost plug kit this is for cars that have a factory controlled solenoid or wastegate control power for the solenoid comes from the stock wiring loom's wires, usually its a switched ground signal type #2 5 pin boost plug kit this is for cars that dont have a factory boost control or solenoid control

same, all powerfcs use the same boost kit solenoid & map sensor

get the tune fixed on 98 instead unless you want to spend the extra $3 each time

happy bday adzie

ive just realised why the pro model doesnt exist. the pro versions were based on the older FCC1 layout. much like what the ap engineering versions use. it must need to use the older chipset/firmware for some reason. basically the cpu used isnt in production anymore so apexi brought all the remaining stock (likely) and have had to discontinue the production. perhaps it was too much developemt to make it work on the new chipset/firmware or they couldnt for some reason.

no it wont do crap, its all wives tales. but yes putting optimax extreme in your stock ecu'd skyline is likely to achieve less detonation, but nothing more. i wouldnt expect much detonation on 98 premium anyway.

ive had my car on revlimiter for long periods no signs of any abnormal knocking its probably just a case of a few cells near 7 grand that have a bit too far advanced timing

forget the turbo upgrade. you said budget so that wont even go near a turbo upgrade. my suggestions ecu remap rb25 turbo cold air intake kit suspension work fuel pump oil cooler wont add power injectors wont add power fuel reg wont add power and be happy with that. injectors, ecu, and turbo is another 3k expense, plsu the cost of a 1980's style plain bearing diesel turbo which will come on boost probably near 5 grand. why bother? the rb25 will come on fairly nice and should make near 180rwkw. 300rwkw on a rb20 is way out of your scope.

the stock ecu has code to back off timing when it picks up detonation. it wont just magically advance the timing and make more power. an ecu reset clears the map and tries 2deg advanced and watches for detonation. thats about all the "compensation" it does. it has no idea what fuel you are using. it only knows when you have shit fuel in it, that detonates and is seen via the knock sensors, only then does it act, and thats back off timing to protect itself

the ecu wont relearn the new pipes, its basically just a map clear and try 2 deg advance. its hardly a complete retune feature if thats what you are thinking. if you suspect its runing lean you should get it on a dyno with a wideband sensor and see whats coming out. the stock ecu's usually run mega rich on WOT so that could explain the backfiring on max load and gearchange. the only logical explanations i could see for running lean; remapped ecu fuel pump failing lack of fuel pressure or incorrect clogged or shagged fuel line/filter

its all the same crap. all the of fuel is shared between the fuel companies and even stored in the same tanks. i see no logical reason you would get extra km;s from one batch of fuel or brand to another (assuming same octane rating). ive haerd many fairy stories but i cant see any reason why you'd magically get 30kms more on a bp vs shell given BP use shell's crap anyway. ive tried various brands and no noticable change between detonation, fuel economy, power, and zest. this of course is not to be confused with a bad batch of 98 premium which might ping its ass off and make the car run crappy

are you allowed to change to a 3 litre? what are the targa rules? you shouldnt need to rev the rb30 to 9 grand to make good power. revving high doesnt make a car magically fast, average power will the power the rb30 makes at 7k the rb26 makes at 9250. have a search on the r33 rb30 thread. the rb30 build is always cheaper than a big rb26 build

1. private sale will yield a better car for less $ and generally avoid dodgy dealers 2. an racv test will check general mechanics, much like a normal mechanic can. no one can really tell you if the turbo is about to die. they dont die very often 3. a turbo timer means nothing 4. for a decent r34 gtt i would expect around 30k 5. yes r34 gtt is over power to wieght rule for p platers, so is the r33 gtst. r32 gtst is NOT. driving a car over power to wieght can void any insurance and you will also be fined each time if you are caught, they have power to impound your car if caught several times

extra fuel consumption from using higher octane fuel is not possible. i see no reason you would gain an extra 60kms from a tank of higher rated fuel. if anything it would be slightly less. i dont believe it for a second im sorry.

vh41 found in the nissan infinit v8

Please show an example of this, and explain why knock would be more at the rev limiter?

i think in the near 4 years ive owned my r33 i've found having 2 doors annoying probably 3 to 4 times. the 4 door models dont look as good as the coupe imho. but its personal perference of course.

whilst it will help take out some detonation if you have any its pretty much pointless on a stock ecu. aftermarket ecu owners can tune with it and get some more zest but the stock ecu will achieve zero. even doing the infamous ecu reset will probably yield jack all.

yeah a truck core is bad. an ideal model would be a 450x60x300 that why its not a stupid truck / vl turbo 700x300x90 core which is just too big and youll have sucky throttle response.

its been covered a million times. its in mmhg. +700mmhg is near 14psi or 1 bar

60 is warning