WazR32GTSt

if you watch closely then you'll see that the R34 in 2F2F is actually right-hand drive like almost every other skyline in the world...

most definately before hand there was a flat sopt when the car was cold - gone when i plugged in the sensors also before i re-plugged them it used to hesitate above about 5000rpm but that is also gone now that i plugged them in

bout 100 or less probably...

true... the air is still measured by the AFM and fuel adjusted appropriately so why won't it run? i'd be really interested to see how just the rb26 ex cam or jsut the in cam works...?

talk about bringing up an old thread... my knock sensors were unplugged when i showed up that error code and i jsut plugged them back in!

haha i would have paid 200 maybe more! it looks porn!

if the castrol 10x60 wasn't so expensive then i would use it but am happy with the penrite 10w50 at half the price and still a great oil also its semi-synthetic...

whas it the one in the pic? that ain't no standard front bar...

i use: oil: penrite HPR10 (10w50) coolant: anyhting thats anti-freeze/anti-boil and at 50:50 ratio with water plugs: NGK coppers BCPR6ES (coppers are fine at $3 each and change them every 10,000kms or so)

want to 'freshen up' the car a bit... have some questions for those that have sourced sensors before looking for PRICE and WHERE TO GET and BRANDS for the following sensors: - O2 sensor (truth to rumour that EL falcon one works?) - coolant temp sensor (something that fits directly in old spot) anything else reccommended to be chagned for a bit of a 'freshen up'? prices people paid and where to get would be great (ie repco? bursons?) cheers, Waz.

COL-GTSX - you are a champ... the AAC is coming off otnight for a clean! will let you know how it goes...

dunno remember SAFC can only adjust the a/f ratios at 5 set points in the rev range so its not really flexible... but its adjustable at home (maybe buy an a/f ratio gauge?) if you be careful...

i hope net (for my sakes) but will see i'm getting mine done at the mechanics not doing it myself at home (probably could if i needed to though) so will see if that expertise is the difference...

also... only got 370kms out of the last tank (not including fuel resevoir) when normally get 400+ so is it somehting to do with running rich?

- fuel filter recently changed - have re-set ECU and cleaned AFM and cleaned O2 sensor so will see if it does it again (may simply be this me thinks) will take it to the mechanis if it happens again possibly fuel pump? will this come up on ECU diagnostic? keep the ideas flowing.... Waz.

what about chaning just the inlet cam? maybe it will idel? or just the exhaust cam? if Tomei cams work there is no reason the rb26 cams shouldn't work there is something being overlooked here...

have seen quite a few very cheap SSAFC's recently... one advantage of SAFC is its adjustable when you change something rather than a re-map which needs to be changed after each mod but re-map of ECU can alter timing curves as well can't it? much better results i would have thought. i have always been told that the SAFC is more of a 'band-aid' wort of mod good luck, Waz.

weird ass problem... had the car for about 1.5 years and just recently have experienced my first 2 real problems are they related? NOTE: ITS AN AUTO! 1) noticed that sometimes when the car is v.cold (ie just leaving my street in the morning) when i am going v.slow (<30km/h) and i brake harder than normal, somtimes the car loses revs and then rises again, other times it stalls i was thinking a leak in a hose going to the brake master cylinder?? 2) more serious problem. - had been driving for 45mins so car is definately at normal operating temp. - At one point i am in stop/start traffic and just having to let off the brake and back on again its going that slow - All of a sudden... car stalls (wtf?!). put it into neutral and re-start it... car stalls! - so i turn on the hazards and let it sit for 10secs and start it again then give it a quick and small rev. - now the car does th freikiest thing and revs to 2000rpm then drops to 1000rpm then revs ... drops... revs ... drops. happens about 5 times then car stalls again. (nb i'm not anywhere near the accelerator at this point) - i let the car sit for 30secs (mind you its peak-hour traffic!) - start it again and problem goes away... ???? - drive to work and go to park and the car stalls. i roll it into the park and walk off thinking it might go away when i come back (its called 'wishful thinking mechanical engineering'!) - end of the day and i drive home from work and since then (2 days ago) the problem has never shown its ugly face! what the hell is going on? that night i cleaned the AFM and oxygen sensor and also re-set the ECU. not sure if it helped but maybe. other possible causes i was thinking of: - AAC valve - AFM - a plug somewhere that's loose - leak in intake hose keeping in mind this is an auto does anyone have any ideas? and are the two problems possible related? cheers, Warren.

just some thoughts on the topic (i'm trying to think of anything to try to alleviate this problem)... some guy on the forums put NA rb20 cams into his car (232deg and 7.8mm lift) and he had no problems with the install from memory. so the altered duration isn't the problem. what i don't understand is that its happening for these particular cams when normal aftermarket cams work in the rb20?? out of curiosity, what spark plug gap are you guys running? maybe it needs 1.1mm gap to work properly? or if you are running 1.1mm already (most aren't) then you might need to go to 0.8mm... hmmm?? yeah you're right i'm probably talking about unrelated shit! my cams should be here by the end of the week...! its gunna work! Waz.

maybe there's sopme sort of control in the auto ECU that can be hacked into so that you can change gears by the push of a button?

all those who pulled out.... WEAK i'm giving this a go with the stock ECU and will make it work! if not then an ECU re-map is on the cards and will do the 2 upgrades together...

i attached mine to the bolts that hold the bonnet latch in place one horn on either side of the latch... good luck Waz.

doesn't it change the amount of air bled at idle? ie bleed more air = lower idle and bleed less air = higher idle?

make sure you take off the plug into the valve then just loosten the screw a few turns then put the plug back in... that will definately lean it out at idle...

bump $80 anyone??