bnr#@

If you have redline light weight shock proof in the rear diff then that can make it lock up at low speeds. Its probably not ideal for a street car if you just want it to be quiet, damn good oil though and makes the diff tighter which is great for track days/spirited driving...

That would be the only way to do it properly, given the heat any kind of putty/cement/anything you put in there will just break up/melt

Mine is a steady 72 deg, goes to 74 on a 40 deg day. Cooling is N1 water pump and ARC 68 deg thermostat. Standard radiator and intercooler, no aircon at all so no aircon core between the two any more

To build it Fully sick and not just sick though it must have NOS....

New short track time: 57.0976 Now running ebc yellow stuffs on front and making 381rwhp

Nope, honda is out

Thats an mr2 with a ferrari bodykit

Cant really tell you what the job cost as there was a whole heap of other stuff involved with mine, best to ask the workshop. The bill was very reasonable though considering the work

I use Cypher and am very happy, got them to do exactly what you want done to my GTR a while back and use them for most my car stuff For list of workshops see this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...hr-t191756.html

Im sure they meant 0-100km/h in 3.3.... 400mtr is a qtr mile...

Any update on this? I realy need them before Friday morning...

Is the car manual or auto?

RDA from the group buy, awsome value

Ditch the ASUS motherboard and get something from gigabyte and I would run 2 smaller drives raided instead of a single big drive. Big single drives have more platters inside them so they generate more heat and can fail quicker then desired...

You would be surprised how much stupid old tech is still around and works... The hubble telescope in space still uses a 486

Correction to your correction It is actually 4GB however the video card also has ram that the OS must address so if you have a 512mb videocard windows will see 3.5GB of your 4GB ram

Just for shits and giggles... dyno's compensate between 4wd and rwd so most will show the same power either way you dyno it.

Motul Chrono V Competition 15w50, best there is but not cheap. Standard sump and oil pump are fine if they are in good condition, Overfill it a bit just in case though when u take it to the track. If you think your stuff is in good condition then happy racing

If you are realy not doing much then 1GB ram is fine and you can turn off the page file, 2GB would be better though. I say turn it off and see what its like, wont hurt anything

Whats the chance that they will arrive before the 13th? Ive got a track day on the 14th and one of my front ones is cracked so will be in real shite if they dont show up...

Power FC D jetro runs 2 map sensors and averages it out. Few other ECU's run 2 for gtr's to...

Were you able to source just the mounting brackets on their own or have to buy the kit? If you got them on there own then where?

If your car is getting hotter when its idling then something is stuffed. When temps start to rise a bit the fan is suppose to kick in to pull air through and keep temps steady. My temps don't rise one bit no matter if I'm moving or not. Sits on 73 deg all the time (PFC hand controller and new watter temp sensor). Car also runs an N1 watter pump which doesn't flow as much watter at idle as a normal watter pump and still no issues at all

It also comes down to what you are going to do with it. If you are going to race it then the weight advantage of the 32 will be very welcome and all the engine/brakes/suspension bits that are different between the models would be changed anyway for more high end gear

Im with WASCC. Could always get a day licence....