bnr#@

Would like to know this to, trying to figure out where my high knock readings are coming from... get it up into the 100's

297ml for 33

Did someone mess up the aspect ration with that vid or are they realy that narrow and tall?

Have nismo 600's on my car and they are purple...

I so want the 5d mk ii you have no idea.... waiting for the oz list price but its not gona be prety...

A small time Australian bearing manufacturer makes the bearings that were specially engineered for NISMO's 24 hr endurance race program? I think not my friend. ACL don't even offer bearings to such fine tolerances as Nismo. Nismo has always made their own products and I hope always will. I have a fair bit of their stuff ad it is off the highest quality.

You want the ultimate? Titanium baby http://www.pauter.com/titanium.htm

Should be able to just tap the tube out easy.

Nope, non adjustable only for the 32GTR. Looks like the ARC ones come as a front and rear kit with all links, nuts, bolts, washers as any good japanese bolt on, kit. There is hope yet... Though looks like that hope comes at a price....

ARC are adjustable? always thought they werent...

Are there any High quality adjustable swaybars for the 32GTR then? Preferably japanese?

If you dont already have the 888's then get the bigger wheels first then shove some simi's on them (I use 255 RE55 on 9 inch rims). If you already have the tires though stick with that and go hard

You don't want to go to much larger then 225 on those rims, tire will end up being to large for the rim and it will walk around on the sidewall killing response.

If the brakes are in good condition and have good pads in them they are perfectly fine. I use my GTR at the track (Barbagallo) and so far have not had any braking issues at all. Brake setup is: - Standard Calipers all round rebuilt with new seals, pistons inspected and all in good working order - RDA rotors all round (group buy) - Project Mu HC+ Pads all round (absolutly awesome pad, 10 laps and no fade. Have Run 2 track days on these and around 10 000 road KM's and still have around 70% pad left if not more). - Nissmo Braided brake lines all round - Rebuilt/sleeved brake master cylinder - Cusco Brake master cylinder stopper - RBF600 Fluid Car is a 32 GTR and weighs 1510KG with 3/4 tank fuel and driver in it. Power is around the 300HP ATW mark

Its standard, pfc just shows what the standard knock sensors are reading.

And here's why the standard engines wont happen: http://www.formula1.com/news/headlines/2008/10/8595.html Personally I think that standardising anything in f1 is nothing short of stupid

May go have a looksie, depends If I have anything to do on the car to get it ready for the test n tune day on sunday

So whats the best solution to monitor actual knock then? My knock sensors randomly have a spack (into mid 60's) and taking out timing does nothing, fuel is fine to

Whats the deal with the graph? Looks like the run is going from 80 to 140kph, what gear was that done in? I would take a guess at 3rd but that goes to 175kph at 8000 rpm

I'm wondering the same thing here as to why the reading is useless?

That there is a fine example of why companies like MINES charge what they charge for their bits...

ABS Unit?

Yes, you lost fluid and let air into the system. You need to bleed the brakes properly now. I'm surprised it even stops after that, do it asap as its dangerous the way it is

I'm using one, haven't adjusted it though as haven't had the need. It's only realy on there right now to be shiny (and new) No issues with it at all

Main thing I want to do is to go to an arm that should not wear itself out as fast, also currently running noltec arms and one of them is sqeeking like crazy which is annoying me so would like to go to a spherical joint arm, not many good ones of them are available for the 32 though.