Chris Rogers

ok just found (via a contra deal) GTR fuel tank with straps,GTR BOV setup, turbo inlet/return piping , rear wiper motor with decent threads (mine works but I trashed the threads getting it off.) and a host of other bits and pieces. now to remove it all off this wreck. pete, working on it..

where are you picking that car up from? if its brissy run pst here (see sig) and I'll toss a lead into it.

yep. good idea have tools can travel.

so lets get crackin on it. otherwise I want the engine harness and ECU off it

I say toss it all into the cefiro that said if you need a hand stripping it , I'm up for it.

also do not buy USDM lights. read the FAQ for the reason why.

where is the fusing on that btw?

if I am looking at that correctly I reckon that the grommet has been cut and that the cable is forming a channel for the water to run inside. I would take it back to who did the work on it and tell them you think you have a leak and get them to look at it. (looking at it I *think* I know who did the car.) last one of those I did I put a 4 AWG cable through the end of that grommet neatly and resealed it with black sickflex. you can pull that harness down a fair bit and the grommet end will expand a fair way to allow a cable that size into it. this should show what I am talking about that entire harness has been pulled out , stripped and reassembled. it does not leak. compare that to yours

not bad. I believe there is a place that does repro stuff for these. phils rotary in lawnton could probably help you with that. nice find!

any idea on speed?

if he gets it back that will allow him to fix the cefiro but yes that is definitely a write off.

thats better news did the bags go off?

OH NO!

yep. been working on/off it for the last two weeks whilst doing other work. I now have 3 full days on it to get the battery moved properly. toss two battery disconnects in place (one drops the alternator inside the car.) take out the AC wiring, rewire the heater,rear demister and fix a lot of electrical niggles in it. right now I'm doing 0 AWG body earths on it using double jacketed flame proof wiring on the lot. its a fairly full on job and I'm documenting a lot of it o camera.

he referred to it as a fuse. its red and starts with O. call me and I will explain.

with a LOT of fiddling.. I can do one that works WITH the factory overlay but its NOT a DIY item.

and even then it still wont go. there are too many differences in the cars. GTR (R35) changed from 2009 -> 2010. and nothing on that is the same display wise.

miso, finally got hold of the supplier of your fuse. 20kg bastard should be here in the morning..

have to find it first (give me a call during the day ) I also need a light switch from somewhere. yours is toast.

common mistake think laterally when you do things - it will save headaches later.

maybe, depends if I get this black car I got here driveable or not. (its seriously shitting me off.)

lol! a win is a win in their books.

why bother?? if you have ONE working key you are really screwing yourself. when that key fails how are you going to start the car? if its done correctly with a proper standalone alarm you CAN still use both. the keyless side of things will still work BUT the alarm remote will also control the locks. think about it before you waste the money. I had a kid ages ago drop one of htese on to a R34 onlu to get it pulled when the keys failed. he HAD a decent alarm on it originally but hated fobs. that is what got him in to trouble. stock key failed car no go , installer gets a phone call..

ok if it goes ahead - who enters it? locals with commodores or nissans only?