XRATED

First off WMI has its place but I realy don't like it... especially on a 26 as you won't get even distrobution with a single point kit. Sell it. Any advantages of cooling from WMI are negated with the use of N20. Nitrous oxide has fantastic cooling properties as it expands into the intake. A correctly set up and installed nitrous kit isn't cheap... Think 2k all up. And don't even think about buying one of the cheap kits.... they only end in disaster. By the way, nitrous is an inert gas.... it's not all fast and the furious- naaaaaawzzzz and it's gonna blow. It only serves as an oxidiser. I'd suggest reading some of the info on http://forum.nitrous-advice.org/index.php Cheers Justin

I wouldn't bother farting around with the oil pump... If you wanted to add an electric pump, you would install it as a redundant/seperate system.... with it's own oil pick up, filter and feed into the oil galleries. I'm just going to use the largest accumulator or 'accusump' I can fit, along with a good oil pump and oil pump drive. J.

Whats the status on the workshop manuals? Cheers Justin

+1 for duel sided actuators and IWG porting

+1 for HSD's... I'm pretty shure Willall are using HSD's in they're EVO X test car. J.

Dude... why bother with the external gate??????? It's going to be very annoying at 10psi for absolutely no gains... J.

update... The issues I'm looking for are: Zoom: - 1 to 17, 19, 21, 24 to 26, 31, 35, 37, 50, 68. What issues of 'boost' replaced zoom??? HPI: - 1, 2, 3, 5 to 8, 15, 19, 38, 44, 85 to 89, 92, 93, 94, 96, 98, 99, 101 I have extra copies to sell or swap, these issues are: Zoom: -59, 58, 55, 49, 45, 51, 45, 70, 36, 57, 45 HPI: - 28, 46, 30, 21, 24 Will pay cash. More for early issues or special issues. PM me. Cheers Justin

Hey Girorostar, yeah most of the fuel you get on the islands is fairly poor ( comparitable to a mix of 91 and cheap ethanol)... I spend quite a lot of time in the carib/lower carib/trinidad etc on private superyachts. I'd suggest buying 20lt drums of toluene and add a 7:1 mix of gasoline:toluene. Your biggest problem will be that the fuel you get where you are isn't of a constant grade and is usually full of water! If you tune your car on a 'good' batch of fuel then fill up will a different/poor batch of fuel and drive the car hard you may very well damage the engine quite quickly. Water will damage your fuel system and will also allow sludge/bactiria to grow in your fuel system (it'll gunk it up pretty quick). The biologicals actually live in the water but feed on hydrocarbons (your fuel) then 'poop' out more water and gas/sulfates etc. I've helped a few guys with they're imports on the islands, this is what I suggest: Toluene Good knock sensor and indicator (eg Power FC) Good knock correction mapping Very conservative tune Single point methanol injection... (seperate tank, pump, injector and controller) Not WMI. We set up a single point meth injector on a s13 in Sint Maartin... worked quite well! Good luck Justin

Awsome...

Sweeet... PM me with your details.

Sounds good Damo...

Hey boys and girls, I'd like to finish off my Zoom and HPI magazines collection... The issues I'm looking for are: Zoom: - 1 to 17, 19, 21 to 26, 31, 34, 35, 37, 50, 68, 97, 104, 105, 107, 109, 114 HPI: - 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 15, 19, 38, 44, 70 to 75, 81, 82, 83, 85 I have extra copies to sell or swap, these issues are: Zoom: -59, 58, 55, 49, 45, 51, 45, 70, 36, 57, 45 HPI: - 28, 46, 30, 21, 24 PM me. Cheers Justin

I've seen a 6262 push 700+ bhp.... but again it's quite high boost 32-35psi of boost. J.

I have a twin td05 low mount kit if your interested? I've allready dumied up twin td06s on the manifolds... Cheers Justin

If even one servo down here had e85 I would run with duel maps and a bigger fuel system to race with e85... But not a single servo in Tassie is selling it yet. The only thing that might.... might be holding me back on the exhaust side is the exhaust manifold and wastegate arrangment. I's the only thing that would account for the boost drop other than the exhaust housing... But the stock manifolds have been proven fine for upto 280-300 I'll happily take donations for the exhaust, oil and charge plumbing changes to put my hks low mount manifold on....... PJ any takers? ha ha ha.

You can run the rb25 without using the VCT... it's just not ideal, but you wont hurt anything. If you use an rpm window switch, you don't have to do anything manualy??? It's not a hassle or very hard... if you can wire a relay you can wire in the window switch. VCT- Variable cam timing = Oil pressure is sent up the inlet camshaft to the vct cam gear and changes the intake cam timing. The MSD switch is rated at 2amps (i'll have to check that) and my solinoid draws no more than 1.3amps. I didn't use a relay. The best way to 'understand' the vct set up on a 25 head is to use the search function... Cheers Justin

From the outset this was just r&d for me, to see how the 5557 would stack up against a td06. The 5557 I bought was as closly matched in ar/trim/wheel sizes/hp rating/comp cover to a td06 as I could get.... I even got the plain bearing core to keep it comparatable. I still think that PT turbo's are WELL worth the money... They're packed full of new tech and seem to produce the numbers on a variety of engine combinations. I'm positive another 5psi would see another 25-35rwkw with the same shape boost drop. I just don't want to run anymore boost through a daily driven 100k stock 25. We raised the boost from 18psi to 20psi, got the same shape boost drop and made another 30rwkw from 3800rpm. If your running e85 and/or have a built motor... these turbo's would be the go. As for a restriction... I'm running a stock GTR cooler, 2.5" cooler pipe work, greddy style plenum, stock tb, 3" intake with a new greddy air filter. I have a full 3.25" hks exhaust. The exh mani is stock with a custom made adapter and wastegate between the manifold and exhaust housing. There are areas that could be imporoved, but none that add up to anymore than a handful of kw's... Cheers Justin

It's been covered in a few threads now... You can use a z32 ecu with the nistune board. Or use an rpm window switch. I use an MSD window switch. All you have to do is run a positive from the ignition, then a switched negative to activate the VCT soliniod. I switch the VCT on at 1300rpm then off at 4600rpm. Others have used aux output from a turbosmart ebc, jcar kit (I don't think it would work well though) or shift light circut. My VCT solinioid draws 1.3amps. Cheers Justin

Here's the dyno sheet guys... The run was on a new mainline dyno, with correct ramp and air temp correction. The engine is a bone stock 100k km rb25 (good compression), suitable fuel system, cooler etc. It's hanging off a stock manifold with a wastegate 'adapter'- the gate is a 46mm PT gate. It's running an rb20 nistune with an rpm window switch for the vct. It has splitfire coils, ICE ignition booster and 1mm gapped plugs. Oh and a greddy copy plenum that I cleaned up and match ported. The turbo is a 5557 with 3" inlet and 2.5" outlet comp cover... .63 ar exh housing. The whole set up has been screwed together very well and tuned for reliability. 20psi was my boost limmit for this engine... Cheers Justin

Well sports fans. I'll post up the dyno sheet tomorow.... However- I ended up making 245 odd rwkw on 98 at 20psi (that drops off to 18psi at 8000rpm) from my 5557 .63 exh housing. All the usual supporting mods, no major restrictions. I was a little dissapointed. For the lag I would have expected 255/260ish rwkw at that boost level. It seems high boost is needed for the numbers with these turbo's. I just didn't want to run anymore boost on a stock 100k rb25. I'll be going to a td06... J.

Are you putting T618Z's on this engine?

Aaaahhh... the good old days. J.

When using muliple pumps of this design in parallel, check valves/non return valves are a must. The ViPec can controll the switching of a second pump. You could also use a boost pressure or rpm reffrenced switch to controll the second pumps operation. Or use a fuel pump speed controller from weldon or aeromotive etc... J.

I'm pretty shure nismo diffs use GTR sub axles... GTR axles are a 6 bolt flange, so you will need 6 bolt drive axles as well. J.

Well got off my lazy ass and made one up.... Navara sender, cut a groove, filed down the end of the shaft flat to match the 33 gear, cut off the origional bolt tab and through bolted it to the new housing... Some one should make then and sell them! Cheers Justin