XRATED

Also, will swap/deal for td06 turbo, turbo parts and manifold. I'm available all day from 10 till 10. Cheers Justin

Also looking for a td06 turbo and manifold... so willing to swap/deal etc.

The adapter allows an external wastegate to be used with the stock manifold and a T3 turbo. Will work with rb20 or 25. I can assure you it works... The HKS mani bolts up to the head like a stock manifold, however the turbo mounting position is different to standard. Why would you want to use stock turbo or dump with it? I'm free all day/weekend. I've got a feeling I'm gonna get alot of intrest on the mani- can I bring it round to show you today? Cheers Justin

I'm realy pleased there is some development going into the drive arrangment!! and that it's an Aussie crew that are doing it. I'd still love to see shanes design refined and manufactured. I can't see any other way to get a more reliable/robust pump and drive arrangment than a splined drive similar to the 2J design.. we just have to get the tooth profiles rright!!! Bring it on- the market is here!

I'm back from overseas and I'm cleaning out the shed to fund my TD06 requirments. Precision Turbo- Billet comp wheel, PT5557 570hp turbo. Less than 1500km old, some dyno runs and a couple of gymkhana events. This turbo is currently on my rb25/R32 (some may have seen the set up in action at the DEC gymkhana event last year). The car is currntly making 250rwkw with more in it. Dyno sheet and or ride can be arranged. Turbo- $1000 Wastegate- $350 Stock manifold wastegate adapter- $250 Package- $1400 Nismo 260km/h dash for R32 GTR- 87k kms on the clock. As far as I know it suits early 32's. $250 Generic JJR oil cooler kit- Used condition, but everything is there. $200 Twin td05 kit to suit rb26. Used condition. Manifolds are very well made (japanese) with no cracks. Turbos are in ok condition, minimal shaft play and thrust play. Comes with dump pipes. $1000 Genuine N1 oil pump- new in box. $350 Turbosmart FPR-800 fuel pressure regulator- used but in good condition, includes some fittings. $200 Turbosmart bleed valve- used. cheap. $50 Turbosmart V port blow off valve- used. also cheap. $75 VH45/Q45 V8 90mm throttle body- used but good condition. has no tps but your rb20/25 s1 will bolt straight on. also has coolant temp idle adjustment (cool!). $250 RB Flywheel- used, no cracks. $100 SPEC clutch plate- used. $50 HKS GT 2835- needs a rebuild and the housings are good. $350 RB26 conrods- straight and undamaged. $120 HKS cast low mount exhaust manifold- is don is good, but has a crack along the divider inside... I have had a quote for repair (correctly) for $150 by a cast material welding specialist. Rare item $450 HKS square base wastegate- has bolts, valve seat and gasket. $350 Trust rb26 pod adapters- good condition, needs polishing. $100 Intercooler- generic JJR. $100 Package deals can be made, all shipping will be additional (don't ask for shipping prices unless your very keen) and all parts can be inspected/picked up from south Tasmania- Hobart Area. PM me here or call/sms Cheers Justin

I'm back from overseas and I'm cleaning out the shed to fund my TD06 requirments. Precision Turbo- Billet comp wheel, PT5557 570hp turbo. Less than 1500km old, some dyno runs and a couple of gymkhana events. This turbo is currently on my rb25/R32 (some may have seen the set up in action at the DEC gymkhana event last year). The car is currntly making 250rwkw with more in it. Dyno sheet and or ride can be arranged. Turbo- $1000 Wastegate- $350 Stock manifold wastegate adapter- $250 Package- $1400 Nismo 260km/h dash for R32 GTR- 87k kms on the clock. As far as I know it suits early 32's. $250 Generic JJR oil cooler kit- Used condition, but everything is there. $200 Twin td05 kit to suit rb26. Used condition. Manifolds are very well made (japanese) with no cracks. Turbos are in ok condition, minimal shaft play and thrust play. Comes with dump pipes. $1000 Genuine N1 oil pump- new in box. $350 Turbosmart FPR-800 fuel pressure regulator- used but in good condition, includes some fittings. $200 Turbosmart bleed valve- used. cheap. $50 Turbosmart V port blow off valve- used. also cheap. $75 VH45/Q45 V8 90mm throttle body- used but good condition. has no tps but your rb20/25 s1 will bolt straight on. also has coolant temp idle adjustment (cool!). $250 RB Flywheel- used, no cracks. $100 SPEC clutch plate- used. $50 HKS GT 2835- needs a rebuild and the housings are good. $350 RB26 conrods- straight and undamaged. $120 HKS cast low mount exhaust manifold- is don is good, but has a crack along the divider inside... I have had a quote for repair (correctly) for $150 by a cast material welding specialist. Rare item $450 HKS square base wastegate- has bolts, valve seat and gasket. $350 Trust rb26 pod adapters- good condition, needs polishing. $100 Intercooler- generic JJR. $100 Package deals can be made, all shipping will be additional (don't ask for shipping prices unless your very keen) and all parts can be inspected/picked up from south Tasmania- Hobart Area. PM me here or call/sms Cheers Justin

are you serious??

Hey guys- Well I'm back a little sooner than I thought... so I'll be there! Can't confirm if I'll get out there- but I'll be there either way. Oh and zoidbergmerc- if I came off a little rude yesterday at the bottle shop, I apaologise... I'f just come off the back of 48hrs of flying/airports/no sleep. Cheers Justin

Wow this thread turned into somthing veery different than the first page... People forgett that the last 10 or 15% of potential usually takes up 80% of the resources (time/money/material etc) to achieve. I'm diggin the process and I hope to see more of how things were calculated, planned, fabricated etc. Also, the r and d that goes/wen't into most of the off the shelf products we buy to 'bolt on' had alot more than 10k invested before production- per piece! Good luck and keep us posted!! Cheers Justin

there aint nothin like a neat r32 in black!!! i like it. ps: there are a couple of realy good reasons why splitfires are more expensive than 'yellow/red/green'- purple jackrts

How thick is your phenolic 'spacer' gasket, isolator- etc? Was it bought or was it fabbed up for you? If so where and who did it for you? Cheers Justin

Get a hold of a o-ring slice kit: http://www.rshughes.com/products/079340_00112.html And make your own... Or use the one you have and cut a little section out of it then re-join it. In the splice kit is a tool to cut o-ring material perfectly square. Then with two very clean very straight edges you can bond them with fine (good quality) super glue or o-ring glue... I make orings for harder/harsher/higher temp applications than this use all the time and I've had no problems so far. If you get a phenolic gasket cut in any decent thickness- cut me one too pleeeeeease??? Cheers Justin

easy! ha ha ha. or do this! http://www.rhinobuggies.com.au/

Personally I wouldn't be welding onto the head... Tig is a 'hot' process. There are just so many finely machined clearances to be buggered around with by adding that much heat. An adapter plate can be made as easily as a slice of alloy plate, the two types of head gaskets and some basic hand tools. And if it all goes tits up you can put it back to stock. Cheers Justin

To be honest, don't get too carried away with engine swaps etc.. If you don't have the skills/knowledge or tools to put a stock turbo back on, your not going to be able to complete an engine swap. Get the turbo, manifold, dump pipe, exhust and cooler pipe work sorted out- get the ecu re-tuned. Then just drive it for a while! Spend some money on brakes and suspension before you go getting into engine swaps. J.

Ha ha... I kinda like it. Any more pictures?

I've been looking at this for a while and all the people I've talked to everyones been happy with the results, no one has gone back or changed to a greddy/style. At the end of the day it's not a huge gain for the work involved- but it is a gain. Some guys have used 10mm alloy plate to make up the adapter- I was going to use something alot thicker to create a longer distance between the tb and ports for slightly better low end torque.. it all depends on the clearance to the strut tower too. I say go for it and post up the results as a pure, before-after. Cheers Justin

Diesel... great idea! 6.0lt ford f250 v8 rebuilt with twin compound turbo chargers.. Not so fuel efficient?

Oh my... What are you trying to achieve? - Performance...? I can't see a performance gain. Infact all I can see is poor flow distrobution??? - Looks...? Looks waaay to ghetto fab to me, but I guys that's personal taste??? - Shorter pipe work..? well yes... but at what cost? I'll also add- I will garantee you would not be able to tell the differnence from driving the car on a back to back test! Not to mention there are so many fantastic options for forward facing plennums- WHY BOTHER? Cheers Justin

Ok so you decided (after asking all of us in the first place) not to take our advice and you bought an evo intercooler anyway.... no worries- personal choise. To help you get started... This is what your going to need (roughly): - 5x 90deg alloy mandrel bends - 2x 45deg alloy mandrel bends - 4' straight pipe - 8" of silicone hose - 2x silicone hose reducers? - 8x hose clamps (get good ones) - 6' of 1x1/4 alloy strap (brackets) - 6x nuts, bolts, pairs of washers - cut the front bar - cut the reo (probably) - get a fab place to weld up 5-7 joints Good luck to you... and post the pic's up when it's all in. I've honestly never seen an evo cooler in a 33 before. Cheers Justin

if you run on 98... it's not available everywhere, so plan your fuel stops. Otherwise, there are a bunch of awsome places to stop around coastal tassie... def stop at the pancake palour on elephant pass!

Do you have a tig? can you weld alloy? Even if you do (I seriously doubt it) the time it takes you to faaark arsee about fitting the cooler, brackets, fabing up the pipe work etc... not to mention buying some more mandrel sections of pipe etc you will have spent the same money and spent far more time getting somthing to fit- I'll put it to you like this- I have the skills and tools to fabricate alloy pipe in 3mm.... and I just bought a jjr return flow stealth cooler kit for my stag. No mess, little fuss and a proven performer. But hey- whatever floats your boat mate. Next time you ask this forum for help.... try listening???

Buy the time you have paid your tuner to make brackets- modify pipe work- hose- clamps- fittings etc then the extra labour to mount it, you'll have spent alot more than buying a stealth cooling pro return kit for just jap for exactily the same results. J.

.... or it might be a good excuse??? oh gee hun, the turbo's on the way out... I can get it re-built though (insert 250kw highflow). he he he... So the cycle begins.

What brand mufflers are they? Custom? They look to be the buisness either way! Cheers Justin