XRATED

x2 How do you find the GTRS's for tarmac work? Cheers Justin

A spline drive collar and inner oil pump gear would be ideal... I chipped in for a set for manufacture by one of the guys on the forum last year, unfortunately it didn't happen.... I firmly believe, an Aussie company would make a killing by manufacturing a spline drive collar and inner gear oil pump set... Especially with a well proven product like Nitto... hint hint. J.

Nice write up Webber... Also, flow rate will slow as pressure in increased.... eg more pressure/restriction= less flow. Flow rate would be decreased by the time the oil is pushed through oil galleries, bearing clearances, restricters, relief valves, oil squirters etc... I find it very hard to believe the flow figures provided are at working pressure and through working outlets. At the end of the day, it's a fixed displacment pump, with a pressure relief valve... the smaller the outlets, the sooner the relief valve opens and the more oil is bypassed. Cheers J.

Mate, modifing anything is a long, hard and expensive road. HP costs money... simple as that. Modifing cars, cost money... When you have been modding cars long enough- these things happen. To be honest, you have allready had more offers for help/support than you would recieve from allmost any other brand or performance part company... Also, if your going to modify your daily.... you HAVE to expect to organise alternative transport- your dreaming if you expect anything else. By the look of your dyno graph, there seems to be something amiss too... you havent covered half the possible issues. I wish you the best of luck and suggest you take the offer to test your turbo, before you start bagging a product, possibly to find out your wrong. \ J.

If it's a daily... I'd look at standard pistons with ceramic and skirt coatings. Better ring sealing, lower cost, less hassles. I drag raced on stock pistons at 400rwkw plus nitrous for 2 years as well as ALOT of street driving. If your going to race often, iffy fuel, hot temperatures, basic managment or push the limmits, then forgies are worth the effort. J.

Hey damo, just stuff the sound shield box full of fire blankets... help cut the ressonance down. Dude--- sucks about the turbo! You know, I recon a nice set of red top rb20 rocker covers in crincle red would look good toooo....

Is the EVO 10 ex manifold divided 1-3, 2-4 or 1-2, 3-4? Cheers Justin

Ha ha, I've had this happen. I assumed the worst and started to pull the head. Luckily I pulled the plugs before I undid the first head bolt and noticed a cyl was full of fuel! Ended up just being dirt in the injector, jamming it open. Luckily, I had a breaker inline in by battery cable- so the starter didn't push to hard before the breaker flicked off. Cheers J.

...what- who me?? my driving style... I drive realy slowly. It's the missus who drives to fast Yeah, td06's I think.. why not- they look cool too... (gotta keep up with the kool kids) ba h ah aha ha. Gas is good! maybe I'll just run one bar and 300hp of nitrous RB25 r32 is my thrasher/ missus car (was anyway- was my excuse)/ drifter/ gymkhana- motorkhana car... I got a black S2 stag for daily duties/ tow car.

I made 400rwkw with trust dumps and down pipe, 3.5" exhaust and a (now found out) restrictive 3.5" rear muffler. If I stay with low mounts, my next exhaust will be, trust dumps- custom 3.5" down pipes- twin 4" cats (on v bands)- custom burns stainless 2x 3.5" inlet, 4" outlet center muffler- burns stainless 4" inlet custom rear cannon. X2 HKS dumps probably should go. Good luck. J.

Ha ha ha... I thought as much (hammer installation) If you need somone reliable to leave it with, that won't cost you a fortune- Mobile mechanics/Marty- in Moonah (Hobart) is a good bloke and is used to working via remote (I left my 32 gts-t with him all last year for an engine conversion etc as I work overseas). Brads a top guy- expensive though. If the belt is comming off, your PS pump isn't straight. What turbo's are you running? If they're bb are you running restricters? Either that or your valve stem seals are leaking badly... bypassing some combustion pressure into your rocker covers causing you some serious pressure problems? They're cheap, so it might be worth changing them just incase. GL Justin

Nitto pump and collar, tomei sump baffles and an accusump... would have to be the best set up for the money and ease of fittment.... Otherwise, add a sump extension with pickup. I wouldn't piss about with an N1 pump on a built engine... Saying that, I have an N1 pump (with no collar) on my thrasher rb25 and have had no problems yet- I do have an ATI ballencer though. I'm not a massive fan of external oil pumps... the only thing that stops total failure is a thin little belt, with little or no guard... J.

Hey Toff... I'm still in two minds about what's going to end up on XRATED. It's either going to be a pair of low mount GTRS's OR a pair of TD06L2 8cm Trust turbo's... what do you (or anyone else) think??? (stroker- dog box- 4.3:1 gears) I've got manifolds, trust pipe work etc for either set up. ... oh and 400hp worth of direct port nitrous if I get exited :-) But anyway... I just emailed Eiji and he got back to me in a couple of days. I'm thinking about swapping out my Precision Turbo- Billet 5557 in my (rb25)32 gts-t for a Kando... Either a Kando or a Hypergear 'super response' for a crazy 220rwkw (I have 4.3:1 gears in the gts-t). Cheers Justin

Leave the mines ecu in it... they usually run a fair whack of timing and a heap of fuel all up and down the map... I'd get a knock meter and a wide band... (just borrow them if you can) Grab a nismo adjustable fuel pressure reg/ fuel pressure guage and slap on a r33 or even better a r34 rb25 turbo with the rb20 actuator (10psi). If your in Japan, there 'have' to be better options for turbo's though. Run the base timing back a couple of degrees, bump the base fuel pressure up 10psi then get out on the track for some testing. Start rich, lean it off at the pressure reg as needed, then push some timing back into it as you can, up to stock- without knocking/pinging/detonating. As long as your running quality fuel, you have slightly rich mixtures, you have enough timing but not enough to ping/detonate- and you can keep your air intake temps/oil temps under controll.... you'll be most of the way there. Or find a hks 2510- or similar, get an axpexi AFC or similar and get a bit better result. Have fun J.

Are you in the carribean? If your on a small island, your fuel is going to be of poor quality and inconsistant. So you will be pushing the limmits as it is with the stock turbo, running stock boost and mods you have. These cars were designed and tuned from factory to run on 95+ ron fuel. In the heat, even stock cars ping a little on 95 and you should really run it 98ron fuel. By running a larger turbo, with more boost and no tuning (especially timing maps) you will just kill the thing on poor quality fuel. There is no 'cheap' way to re-tune these engines... SPEED COSTS MONEY!!! If you can't get anyone to tune the thing, why do you have an aftermarket ecu? My advice would be to send your ecu to an experienced tuner, have the maps changed to suit your modifications and fuel type... Then get a water methanol injection kit and run it all the time. Good luck Justin

Where is the car, north or south? who's doing the work? I would do everything you can (leakdown test, plumbing etc) before you go pulling the engine again... I'm suppried the head drain elbow fitts between the head and firewall... that sucka's out there. Cheers Justin

I just got an email back from Eiji, there will be a 8cm T3 IW housing for the L2 available end of May... Not shure about an 8 cm T3 external gate housing... Justin.

I've seen a couple of MR2 trust cores on yahoo auctions come up quite cheap lately.... they are very thick and are usually placed on a 'side' air inlet. Most of the MR2 guys get 250rwkw out of them before they start chopping into they're boot areas. I'd be tempted to grab one and re-configure the end tanks for a side mount install... Or find an ARC side mount upgrade... If you go side mount just put alot of time and effort into getting air in and out, maybe a thermofan on the back of it and/or temp activated water spray onto the core. If you get a good core, restriction isn't going to be a problem... it's just the heatsoak. There are also a heap of W2A heat exchanger options out of the US. Pop the core in where the side mount usually is, hide the pump behind it, add a 1lt tank after the radiator (just to add volume to the system) then bang the bigest- thin radiator (painted black) behind the front bar.... hell, you could even add a little black ice bucket for track days/summer etc. Cheers J.

Is there a 8cm L2?

Hey Damo, got a set of 34 rims you want to offload???

The 25 is 18mm taller, other than that it's the same dimentions. If you get a s1 25, you can use the rb20 loom and ecu with a nistune and vct controller or z32 ecu (internal vct controll). It's the best thing I ever did with my gts-t..

There are other reasons to run a multistage scavenge pump other than just oil return.. But I would much rather have alot more oil going roundy roundy than 'just enough'. There are other factors that affect oil pressure and volume other than the pump it self.. If I can't get the oil in the head under controll with 1.5mm restricters (I believe I can) then I will look at smaller or other options (there are other options other than restricers). I havn't seen a scavenge (only) pump on a 26 yet... I have used them on other engines though. I would try swapping the head drain to the other side, add a cross over hose between the rocker covers and a decent size catch can with a drain before you pull the engine again... Your going to do it anyway, so what do you have to loose? If you test it properly, your not going to loose an engine.. Must be frustrating... J.

Ha ha, you don't have to apologise... We're pretty much on the same page though. The piston/ring clearance difference isn't huge between a tightly built forged engine and a stock engine... plus there are plenty of stock piston/gap rb26's showing the same symptoms. I do agree there will be more blow by/combustion pressure getting into the crank case with forged pistons... but there are also many forged piston rb26's out there that don't show these symptoms. When I was commenting on Jim's advice, I was reffering to replacing the spring in the oil pump... (Jim has ALOT of experience with 26's)- not oil restricters advice. I will be installing restricters, but no where near .9mm ... A belt driven scavenger pump will get oil back into the sump ALOT quicker than gravity will...

If I was you, I would listen very carefully to what Jim at Croyden has to say... There is more than just one factor to your problem: - Windage/Pressure build up in the crank case - Lack of crossover hose from one cover to the other - Draining - Rocker cover baffles - Catch can design - Pressurised oil flow (not pressure) total - Modification from factory design When the GTR was first released, there was no such problem with pumping massive amounts of oil out the rocker covers... Somthing to think abaout? My next oil/breather set up is going to include: - 1.5mm oil restricters - Trust sump extension - Nitto pump and collar - Matched and enlarged oil returns - Multiple drain points from the rocker covers - -12 hoses from the rocker covers to eachother (as factory... there is a cross over hose!) and to a catch can - Baffled catch can - Oil air seperator filters - Lines back into the intake pipes (for negative pressure) after the AFM's - Drains to the exhaust side of the sump (above oil level) - -10 hose from the intake side of the sump (above oil level) - -8 hose from the back of the head to the exhaust side of the sump I will be pumping as much oil volume and pressure around as I can, if it's too much oil being pumped up then I'll create better ways to drain it back to the sump (4 stage scavenge pump), not restrict the flow too much. I think alot of the issues rb's have is the crossover hose from rocker covers are removed, thus not letting the pressure equalise between drain galleries/crank case either side of the crank (think windage). Any drains must run to the exhaust side of the sump as the intake side will become pressurised at high rpm. Hope that helps. Justin

I'm hanging out to see the results... especially with this set up.