XRATED

Hey Damo, I'd buy them buddy- but I allready have a set

Check the engine mounts, gearbox mounts and center bearing... 2nd isn't usually that easy to bust in a 25 box... especially at that power/torque level. If- if you have a gearbox problem, then re-build it. As Jangles said it will cost you about the same and you will have a good box. J.

Try running a decent size breather line from the intake side of the sump (above the oil level) into your catch can... this will bleed off excess pressure in the crank case. Also, either take off your head 'drain' or plumb it into the exhaust side of the sump, otherwise it will be adding to your problem- not fixing it. J.

Another sea dog here.... I don't sail (cant stand it) I work on large private motoryachts. If you think regular boats are bad.... mega yachts are 'bust out another mill' or two.... Some of these guys really don't know what they get themselves into! ha ha ha The cheating that goes on in offshore power boat racing in the states is amazing!!! Fire extinguishers filled with nitrous to high pressure nitro-methane injection systems! not to mentions boats so thin you can see through the hull before paint in places... One event, somone got caught adding a second supercharger (compound supercharging) just before a race... it was actually quite a cool set up, effectivly a 'quick release' supercharger!!! ha ha ha. I'm all up for getting creative, but nitrous oxide in a fire extinguisher??? hmmm....

Yeah right.... What gearbox are you putting under it? 2wd? 4wd?

Yeah, my grandma AND aunty both asked 'so when was it used as a hearse'.... 'in Japan?' - it is black on black, dayz kit, with heavy tint and dropped on super wagons...

Have a good read of the 'oil surge', 'broken N1 oil pump' and 'breather' threads for alot of the info you need on oil controll issues. At 350rwkw, dont get too caught up with internal modifications... Get the engine prepped and built by an experienced RB builder, keep everything stock exept a set of forged pistons, oil pump (and matching crank collar) and set of drop in cams. Everything else gets measured, machined, ballanced and prepared correctly. Get the biggest sump extension you can find/afford, a good oil pump (nitto seem to be the best option for the money), enlarged oil return galleries, block restricters, mines style rocker baffles and an accusump (if your budget allows). If your going to rev it 8k+ invest in a good crank ballancer. Your going to need an external 044 at a minimum or larger, bigger injectors and I would invest in a duel entry fuel rail. Two rb20det afm's are the same size as Z32's but they plug directly into the rb26 loom and have enough resolution for 400rwkw- I broke my first GTR box (3rd gear) at around 380rwkw... That was with an R3C (os tripple) clutch- For 350rwkw I would sell the OS clutch and buy a Jim Berry full monty, it will help the gearbox last longer. The rest of the drive line will be fine. Contact Paul from Red R Racing for engine building etc... Cheers Justin

1. Sell the SAFC 2. Install a nistune and get it tuned 3. Stop waisting time and money on power and start on handling modifications 4. Some HSD coilovers 5. Caster rods 6. Rear camber arms 7. Hicas cancell bar 8. Decent alignment set up! Then save up for a bunch of wheels any tyres, then more tyres and some more tyres.... J.

The aeromotive gear is veeery noisy... but most importantly ALOT of guys in the US runn them and have to send them back/ warranty/ replace them on a regular basis.. If your pushing 1000+hp at the crank, then you will be re-building your engine more often than the fuel pump.... hp costs money! This is my argument.... Iv'e seen it first hand. Two bosch pumps on paralell, one shtis itself and the other tries to pick up the slack.... it\s only lean right in the top end (the most important/ dangerous end) of the power curve. Especially if there's no non-return valves fitted!!! Cut the ends off, slide a flare sleve and nut, flare the end and hey presto you have a female flared coupling.... then use any (correct size) AN or dash male fitting.

You guys need to stop fkn around and grab somthing like this.... http://www.weldonracing.com/product/20-6/2345-A__%28-12_inlet_and_-10_outlet%29.html

Ba ha haha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha............. I love it!

http://fatlace.com/slammedsociety/hellaflush/hellaflush-i-dont-care/ Brilliant!!!

Pic's dammmn it!!! ha ha ha.

I have a .82 rear... drops off 21psi to 18psi from 6k-7.8k rpm and wont make any more than 250rwkw on 98... The response isn't particulary awsome for the power either.. Sell it!

I have a 5557 on an rb25... It chokes the 25 and only makes 245rwkw at 20 psi... Sell it.

Ha ha... I havn't been on speedhunters for a while. Check this out: http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/01/20/car-spotlight-gt-gt-volvo-powered-ke70.aspx Doh!

Rivit it on with ss rivits... Cf pannel, raied around the outlests and in the shape of a flame. Ha ha, or you could weld a couple of truck flaps on the ends... fkn briliant either way....

Ha ha... I've had this problem a couple of times before. In all honsty, check your cooler pipe work for rags... check both comp wheels... block off your bov's... check the oil feeds to both thurbos.... has anything else changed other than the turbo's? If you want to rule out from the wastegates back, wire them shut for testing. Cheers Justin

Brilliant! Now just throw a 70hp shot of gass on it for the trifecter! At least it'll keep the intake charge temps down... Are you going to vent the bonnet over the manifold? Top work J.

... No credit due here. I'm not the one cutting his car up- I just couldn't bring myself to take a 4" hole saw to a rear guard. Are you going to make up a cf exhaust flame shield for the exit on the guard? Hide any rough edges too.. Top effort! J.

Lets all run out and get HHO generators, fuel line magnets and other fuel saving gizzmoos.... Ba ha ha. I honestly think a 3lt conversion on low boost with a good tune will improve my fuel useage. Not enough to justify the cost of the conversion, but it's a contributing factor for it. Cheers Justin.

Woohoooo... I came up with an idea that works? ha ha ha Looks awsome Damo.. I'd say your the only liner owner I know who has the balls to cut a perfectly good r32 in to pieces. Cheers Justin

It's not worth the effort to pull the whole lot down again... 6 years ago I made 400rwkw on my 130k 26 with stock- unported manifolds. J.

It's a long straight road from Brisbane to Tassie... Conservative driving, 45psi in the tires, driving mostly at night... I've found if you can minimise the stop start accelerate driving, the fuel use is cut in half. Terry 9lt/ ... maybe at 60km/h. Ha ha ha. Justin.

I have a very stock (k&n pannel filter) s2 c34 auto. I averaged 8.6l/100km over 2200km @100km/h and we get 12-13lt/100km around town. I have a couple of mates with fordterries the NA version runs around 18-21lt/100km and the turbo version runs upwards of 27lt/100km!!! .........and you think stags are bad. Cheers Justin