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No Crust Racing

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Everything posted by No Crust Racing

  1. Progress, 1 down 1 to go. Am happy with the choice to weld the back side of the guard panel, looks fine on the side you will see imo and would've been a pain to clean up nicely. May put a bead of seam sealer down it yet "just incase". Opted to clean up the up the join to the piece that runs down to the chassis rail, closest to the engine, that will catch the eye and added a bit of strength back into the back of the join just in case given how much I took it back.
  2. Bummer about the head How's the shed progress?
  3. Couple bucks of bunnings finest rubber feet and the tool cupboard fits in nicely. Tub work has begun in earnest, spent time stuffing around with off cuts to find some settings that worked as I was paranoid about blowing holes in and warping the pieces. The tutorial from ATP shows it being TIG'd, but MIG it is. It also mentions stitch welding, but I wasn't confident I could control the heat well enough so opted to tack it to death and I actually think it looks alright all things considered. This is the bay side so easy to get to for clean up, the guard side I'll come at from behind to avoid needing to try and do any cleanup in those tight spaces, this was a recommendation by a few people who had done this kit. I also talking to a mate of mine who does fab/panel work etc and he suggested I should order some weld spot drill bits and attempt to remove the factory panels that way vs just marking and cutting it all out with the grinder, reckons it will make future repairs a heap easier and allow some natural flex in the area if it's plug welded instead. In my head it makes sense to be as rigid as possible, but the idea of having to cut the entire tub out vs drill out a few spot welds later if I bin it makes a lot of sense.
  4. Brace yourselves, shitty welds are coming... Dunno how nice this will look with a mig, but do I wanna drop serious coin on a TIG and learn on something so visual in the bay...
  5. Or it's to help ease the pain of the bill when it comes? 🤣
  6. Bad news, the block "failed" ultrasonic testing, just a bit too thin in some spots for the power goal/usage. Good news, Dale has spare blocks left over from when he had the Super GT car, so we'll be swapping to one of those instead that measures thicker. Glad it was checked and today I learned you can use 4 seasons lube with these 😅
  7. Voila! It's done, just gotta grab some basic feet for it to give me the 1-2mm needed to clear my tool cupboard so it can go under there also. Oh, and longer bolts for the vice. Dale also tells me he's ultrasonic bore testing my block today, see how we go - spare on hand if needed.
  8. Fab on the fab bench is done, just as I emptied the bottle. Used the piece I cut out from the front to make some supports, used the piece I cut off the backing plate to do the same. Time for a wire wheel and some paint over the weekend hopefully, got more gas ready for tubs this morning. This has been a good project for welding experience, I am happy with how some of them turned out, they're not all bangers but there's some good ones in there for sure.
  9. Forgot, Dale said porting is done. Next step is machine for valve guides, cut seats (radial cut) then final mill and wash. Couple stock port pics for comparison. Dale said this about flow numbers. "Chamber opening varied as casting shift had changes of 2-3cc between cylinders. Approx 330 intake and 270 exhaust @ 28". Focus is on velocity rather than outright numbers. This is for 86.5 bore."
  10. Second support in, rear lip prepped, cut, attached. Can lift the bench off the ground from the lip with no noticeable flex so it seems strong enough to stop shit falling off the back. Next is some supports for the table to leg connection, clean up and a lick of paint on the frame.
  11. PCB solder job looks plenty good, well done
  12. Been busy, managed to do some more fab bench, measured/prepped/welded in 1 of the bench supports, used clamps and the other support to compress the bench flat between the 2 sections of SHS and take the bow out of it before welding the support in, other side wont need that.
  13. Bonus head pics I just got, Dale said he's moving on to surface finishing now.
  14. Started chipping away at the fab bench. - Cut/prepped supports for the bench surface (found there's slight bow so buying some big clamps to help straighten that today) - Levelled it up better as it was rocking a tad. - Removed one cross brace so I can get stuff under it, will 45 deg cut the bar and reweld it into the corners - A mate wire wheeled the surface of the bench for me on the weekend, but I think I'll go a bit further on that so it starts out nice, see how we go. Still need to cut/prep the backing piece and clean up the frame for a quick coat of paint to freshen it up. This should make fabbing the tubs a bit easier.
  15. Really valuable info as I'd be eyeing 75s as well.
  16. Holy thread revival Batman. Market is finally ready to pay what it owes and then some.
  17. Suspension tuning, weight reduction, aero, brake bias, tyre choice, data management, actually tinkering with the packs etc etc etc Will be ace (as someone who has built a 16s 48v pack + PV setup for home )
  18. Power Brace back in, not without it's minor issues though. Had to bust out the tap and die set and EVERY bolt and thread needed a clean/chase etc before they wanted to go back in nice. I spent a few minutes wiping some surfaces down, there's some epic oil/dirt combo caked on the cross member in particular. When it's rolling I will have to take it outside and pressure wash it all down properly. Brake ducts removed after our chat here and they were getting in the way, see how we go. Was reminded of an issue I had with swaybar bushes, not the 3m aluminium spacer I have in there. That was used as the bush does not close properly otherwise, I remember doing it in a pinch the night before an event and forgot about it but this seems a bit ghetto now. Bar is 25mm and is either stock or S14 as far as I remember, I do have a whiteline adjustable front sitting there also and an R32 GT-R rear, both of which were removed in favour of this smaller/softer option and stock rear as the car was way too stiff. Maybe on slicks it could work? Next thing to do is set up that fab bench so it's ready to use for the tubs project but this begs a few questions about the order of things. I need/want to replace the body kit/fit bigger flares, tub the front, paint the car (after the cage is done) so I'm just trying to wrap my head around which things first. Experience welcomed, but my thoughts were something like this. - Tub the front - Get the wheels on and a ball park alignment to work out flares/guard cutting requirements then sort that. - Buy body kit, remove old one - Send car to be caged before kit goes on (reduce risk of damage) - Car back, fit bodykit - Prep work then paint Thoughts? Also Dale tells me he's finishing the head today and tomorrow, fingers crossed.
  19. Could be wrong washers too as the bolts I have are from an R34 GTT I think, which came with factory washers. I'll get pads and see where I'm at. To be fair, I probs dont need any brake ducts for a sprint style car.
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