Dan_J

think all a31/c33 will take r32 ecu, so you are running the r32 ecu? paint code is on build plate

toffy i bet you just dont like flares, looks great all painted http://www.youtube.com/embed/PTYxuoINJHQ

do you have r32 cables or you just dont have cables?

as above must be from a non drifted car etc so that the cable is in good condition vic only PM me thanks

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Sidewayz-Suspension/120320594732103 ^^^ arms, gauges and more

mine plugs in fine, unless my s2/3 ecu plug is different to the s1 ecu plug, but none the less get one and plug it in. yea hunting used to be so random on mine. was running it on skids too and engine isn't dead so safe bet it works fine

nice work rust bucket huh, it really does show.... main rust areas to get to before hand is the battery tray and boot area unless u used a real clear coat guard will be matt in a few months... much like my rattle can painted items

plugged in r32 ecu seems to run smoother and i dont get the 1-2k hunting on idle like i did before. will see if i can compare the a31 vs r32 ecu power outputs when i go for the another run so the main scrubbing on the rear is the rear bar ?

the a31 doesn't have one as it came out in 1988 and the consult plug for the silver top started in the 1989 r32. unsure if the newer s3 ceffy had it and seeing that the c33 and a31 uses the same ecu/wiring i'd say it never had one as well

shud just plug in, will see when i plug mine in havent got round to it

you can get 220 on a rb20 with stock internals, may need metal head gasket to cope and too much effort with rb22/24 unless you like the stuffing around and not dosh you'll also need a r32 ecu for tuning/ remap as the a31/c33 one is a lil out dated, has a heart beat of lean mixture ratio's here and there kriss pulls 200kw know of another ceffy with a rb20 thats making 220 at least so its doable sau search for rb oil control oil pump as stated metal head gasket ( or just see how long it lasts?) note: ^ thats just for keeping it healthy no power gains

4 door Car(s):R34 GT-T i bet

i was told the ceffy doesnt have one, if your having issues get one installed, was like 50 bucks to get on the ke70

up

seems u do, full manual cables from h/b lever to rear hubs? adjust clutch pedal bolt and bleed clutch lines at the bleed valve and the line joins by loosening the connections. is the clutch worn/used? main reason you'd have to adjust also make sure u use the manual spigot bearing

if you've removed the atuo one you need r32 handbrake lever and the mount that is spot welded to the r32 body, drill out the spot welds on the r32 . drill out the spot welds for the auto h/b lever release, the auto a31/c33 body has markings of how the manual cable hole and cable mount bolt holes should be, drill out the bolt holes then for the cable hole i'd say a hole with a big drill that covers one hole each end so u can use a metal jigsaw/ hack saw to cut the rest out. note: when you mount the h/b lever be it drill and bolt or weld, mock it up with the center consel and with the boot fitted as i did mine abit off center which means i cant mount the clip for the boot you have two options use the auto 'U' joiner handbrake cable and the single cable off the handbrake lever ( may have to grind the adapter the splits into the 2 cables off the h/b lever end. or bin the auto 'U' joiner, use the cables that come off the said adapter that turns 1 line into 2 but you'll have to get a custom longer handbrake lever cable as its too short. in the long run i should have just linked to the D1NZ site which has it in more detail

you need to reseal all your seams/boot rain gutters/ windows/ tail lights/ fuel door area etc with salifex or similar. the old stuff just cracks and wears away after 10-15 years or so

nice and dirty haha! well it being backwards is ment to be japanese bikie gang / bosozoku car style.

never noticed the s2 bottom bump strips before, they look like poo so well done removing it the middle bump strip is the only exceptable one i'm still on the fence

now i'm just trying to confirm if my CAS is working right. i've done the diagnose steps on the rb20det engine manual but i'm not to sure i know what the results mean in terms of the condition of the cas. with the engine running, 120 deg signal terminal 1 ( 41 ecu pin out) ground on pin 50(black wire on the end) = approx 1.5v, manual says its ment to be about 0.5v. 1 deg signal terminal 2 ( 42 ecu pin out) ground on pin 50 = approx 2.5,manual says its ment to be about 2.5v. with the ignition ON ( removed fuel pump fuse 1st) removed CAS and with terminals 1 and 4 , 2 and 4 while just turning the input shaft of the cas by hand results were 0.xx-5v for both, note i didnt take the cas apart with the 3 screws, i just removed it from the cas mount on the engine. i guess my only concern is the 1.5v where its ment to be .5v , so who can confirm if it working as it should? thanks -dan p.s did a search no info relating to volts

was it like that when u got it? could be the central locking unit or the brake light relay somehow.... something in the boot, have a look around

now the s13-r32 cradle is the same, so is the bare s14-r33 cradle the same?

Stang, theres no air flow ratio's in the screen so dont worry, dyno guy must have not had it monitored

^^ THIS MEANS WAR FOOL! actually i think SA police would be much nicer then VICpol looks like she's in good hands by the way its progressed. did you end up getting some lean air flow ratio's during dyno run if so care to state xx:xx ratio?

must be me but just i read that and thought " hmm your coolant/ radiator has voltage, so? is that a bad thing? " put rubber washers/stoppers from clark rubber from anything that the rad is mounted with to the car body? then again the coolant goes by the intake manifold which is grounded so it would still transfer to the rad. again why is this bad?