Dan_J

scott, i've got a sound db meter if you wanna test out nose reduction with best flow, then you can let us all know what's better

HAHA if only, instant boost ftw so just minus 500rpm from current full boost figures

nice and tidy as always, paint looks good i like the colour matching front lips and one tone cars tho, s13 or c33 is the only one to pull off two tone thoughts on china spec front facing plenum? should at least make it 500rpms more responsive for full boost, maybe more and i bet its a legal mod in WA

just realized how crap this camera is at night <_< -water temp in cluster -oil press mounted just under the climate control to the right and is viewable while driving/turning -oil temp mounted on the left side where your left knee would be as high as possible away from clutch, need to kind of lean over to look at it unless you turn the wheel that right way edit: you'd want water temp, oil press and boost in your face if your drifting etc

lol like minds?? was thinking about that the other day, but the other idea is to replace the factory dash oil light with a bright LED to out shine the rest will grab pics of my non defectable set up tonight, and nic its a normal 52mm gauge thats been taken apart from the cup, also replaced the old analog aftermarket temp gauge that was in my cluster with a smoked digital one

external gate and after market turbo's are illegal in VIC

as far i read if its a vapor type lpg the lpg mixter must be after the turbo say next to the TH/B to avoid an intake back fire. somewhat interested in turbo lpg ,peeps that have knowledge wanna chime in and get this going ? who's done lpg on a RB ?

great work stao 200rpm more responsive and 10 more kws now to bit the bullet and try thin titanium exhaust wheels

yep, and they're billet too

thats not bad, at lest they aint stripped out an crushed like aus heaps of japanese 4 doors in NZ

trent, try some r32 ones, they look identical although cant confirm

i've thought about that before, pretty simple to just drill and tap the rear cover. although not too sure how much pressure there would be to make it flow into the cooler and out. can anyone confirm?

^ am digging that cedric thats probly one of the cleanest cars to survive drift matsuri lol

was the afm, went for a test drive with the spare installed and no longer getting what feels like RnR

did you find that the warning beep to let you know your keys are in the ignition if you lock the door still works ? * for tall peeps* also if your after more hug on your knees have the rear mounting points lower then the front, test it out if you dont know what i mean

scratch that, they do turn off with the ignition if its the tiny green box near the rad thats not it, should be a brown box bolted near the drivers side headlight support mounting. if that brown box does do some thing with the auto lights it seems you dont have it ?

i hail thy auto lights king <_< i dont even use mine, maybe if they were rewired off the ignition so they turn off when the car is off

the sensor for the auto lights is on the drivers side, if you put your had over it in the day while on auto it should light up( dash and what ever is working). sounds like bad wiring, maybe even at the sensor plug, could even be the sensor.

^^^ dam, must be the most responsive 1j around ! build thread? or should i just troll SD lol

will try out the spare afm, then mod the stock actuator to fit the turbo . cheers

its a love or hate thing with ceffys, theres no in between your old man is doing it right, dr30 who would of thought

i used this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Oil-Return-Line-Kit-Nissan-Skyline-RB20DET-RB25DET-w-Garrett-T3-T4-/290727032084?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43b0ae7514 ^( my kit was was stated as a 20cm so just double check measurements etc, not too sure what they mean by the 15cm then 20 in the item list ) with a 10AN Male Flare to 3/4" NPT Male Fitting for the block ( ebay too) and lastly the braided line was just abit short so i went to the plumbing section of bunnings and got a male to female coupler/ joiner which may have been a 15mm or 20mm fitting and screwed it in on the drain flange adapter or just the other adapter below it. so just bring in the pipe to see what fits sealed up all the threads with a oil sealant with no leaks to date

so went to the recent calder drift day and car starts to go into limp mode while in 2nd gear after a few slides, doesnt want to rev over 3k, feels low on power like a intercooler hose is loose then it may eventually stall, weak idle etc. i retarded cas timing a tad which made the car last longer before it went into limp mode i've got t-bolts all round so can't be an air leak, have done a quick once over. 2 months ago broke the old rb20 due to the intake pipe splitting( sucking in air from the split that the afm couldn't calculate) and overheating so i fitted another one which seems to be abit more fresh/ higher comp. i'm thinking the ECU is going into rich and retard causing limp mode due to the fresher engine where as the old engine had no problems when sliding 2nd. the only thing that i cant quite put my finger on is the fact that it isn't an instant limp mode reaction, its after a while which i'd say is the intake temps getting hotter leaning out the engine therefor limp mode? thoughts? would it be safe to just retard cas timing more and continue sliding untill i get it tuned? rb20det hyper SS1 at 14 psi ( getting RnR at 5+ k in 3rd gear and above) fmic plugs gaped to 0,8 3" turbo back thanks

along with before and after power figures have you got full boost figures ? also if your selling a rb20 intake plenum why is the dyno sheet of a rb25 ? " ryans13rb25"