Dan_J

nice, good to see another ceffy build to the list with the chassis rail depending the the sheet metal folder your metal guy has you may only be able to go as deep as it is wide, eg if its 50mm wide some folders will only let it go 50mm in depth so best to chase that up first for rwc n reg

and its still looking good even tho it hasn't been touched in awhile do you come up for all the vic HQ nats ? I'd still be after those parts n spares but am in no rush

VL speedo cable fits well, it doesn't mount on the dash frame like the r32 one. you need to fit the cluster input first, mount the cluster and then the input for the gear box due to the way it mounts on the cluster. the cone for the cluster input fits tightly on and then you shimmy the cluster back while trying to push it back on an angle to mount it think it will last me longer then the r32 unit as i've gone through 2 already

picked up a vl cable from the wreckers for 20 bux, fits well. it doesnt mount to the dash frame like the r32 one, you push it into the cluster where the cone fits tightly on the cluster and then connect up the input for the gear box due to the fact it is mounted right on the cluster i doubt i'll brake this one

supposedly have slightly smaller runners making turbo response even better, altho 20de intake mani doesn't have the barbs for the water return line meh will measure em up when i can be bothered carveiw finds -->

haha smoke screen brett was telling me about this, and running 20de intake mani ?

you mean that your rwc wanted solid alloy bushes for it to be signed off? lol next thing it'll be a requirement to have rose jointed adjustable suspension

good results would have expected more kw power with the extra capacity and higher comp ratio seeing that camshafts alter power band, no chance that changing shafts to suit the 30 while keeping the 0.62 rear would increase power with more psi ? just a thought

stock one fits with some spacing and longer bolts

cool build, NZ have it great tube front ends here ---> http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=513856

well if that's so it should make swapping the exhuast for epa a lil easier , you mean when you cleared the EPA? plan on making up a 3 to 2" adapter to aresstor to muffler when i get round to it, then just remove a mount and clamp the pipe on for epa duties i've passed a rwc with a 3", i'm just talking about the anal epa here

so whats the go on EPA noise inspection, will a clamped on muffler pass if its under the DB limit or will it fail due to not being welded on, much like the bolt on silencers? such as...

ceffy brakes are crap anyway, only slightly bigger then s13 ca18det/ sr20de brakes if your gonna go the effort for new rotors may as well run front s13 brakes sr20det brakes( same as r33 N/A) and r33 n/a rear brakes if you plan to clear 15"s then again nic says 20e to 20det brakes are all the same, part numbers up top do differ for det no dimensions for the det front rotors anyone?

i'm running a tridon one to suit r31/s13, you have to pinch the plug off a r31 at the wreckers and wire it into the skyline plug they may have made a new one that suits rb20/25 plug so just double check

so it seized up from rust/ grit in the opening rod, or the electric motor seized up? could be quite useful to not draw unwanted attention by going to smaller tip/silencer on the muffler and then hook up a y pipe before the muffler and set the rpm switch at 3-5k, much better then the old lever type and pretty cheap too although no point if defects and such ain't a real issue say with a 2nd daily

and pair it up with this http://shop.quicktimeperformance.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=28

well i've learn't something there , so 1. some water will bypass the thermostat meaning longer initial warm up times 2. as long as the hardline from the lower rad goes at an increasing plane with no dips it can work just the same as the water feed on the block how bout if the feed line dips down as it goes to the water feed input on the turbo would that still be a problem as it would be going straight into the turbo water passage so no air can collect ? now obviously this isn't some thing that would be needed although if it does work pressure wise there would be a benefit to the cooling aspects to it, not a huge difference though

nice, it seems the 180 inspired the new engine choice lol

i've got a trade me account, BUT I CANT ACTIVATE IT AS I DONT HAVE A NZ BANK ACCOUNT TO GET CREDITED grrr

i understand that the oil is there to reduce the friction in the thrust bearing and i figure that water is there to rid the cartridge of the extra heat as the engine is running. when the engine is off there would be not much water pressure to do any 'heat soak' work, other then the pressure quickly dies off as the engine is turned off i remember reading an article where the new mini's turbos were catching fire due to the electric water pump failing

now i've got an alloy rad with a lil heater line barb thats located at the bottom on the end tank that i've blocked off and have no use for. seeing that hot coolant goes to the top of the rad and leaves at a cooler temp at the bottom i figure if the pressure is pretty much that same from the water feed outlet off the block compared to the barb off the rad then this could to used to keep the turbo much cooler as obviously the block gets quite hot.o other then adapting to a smaller line off the barb to the same size as the water feed it should work just the same way, another note is that for common de+T conversions( VLT /SR20DE+T) where there is no water feed thread on the block they just tap into the heater hose. so anyone want to confirm or shoot down my theory just on the water pressure alone?

when my afm was stuffed it would go into what felt like rich and retard( like hitting a wall etc ) at high rpm, then it only went in limp mode after a hard thrash. so not really broken or not mine was in the between

so broke my 2nd speedo cable in the cefiro with a 20 box. can i convert the 20 box to digital speed sensor? if so how? if not, i remember that the vl speedo cable input shaft is metal vs the plastic r32 one so that works out better thanks -dan

yea no worries, haven't used it for quite a few months so i wont miss it, just let me know when your after it

what trubo is that? figure a r33 s1/2 not a31/c33 with FFP =10psi at 2000k should be fun so AutotecnicA boss kit does self cancel? nice my stocker does well, no clue why everyone upgrade's when they start drifting except for having to look JDM best looking wheel = nardi and the china deep dish ones