Dan_J

congrats in the under 9 sec run did anyone else notice in the option video that half the cars are running r33/14/15 cradles and no traction/ tie rod arms ?

pics of catch can plumbing ? is what happens when its connected up a certain way with no breather or 30 block on 20 head

wow can't believe how pricey this is , i made a switch operated sprayer for free/ 20 bux denso washer bottle pump off a el ford at the wreckers , spray nozzle(s) off various bonnets at the wrecker , 1L spring water bottle with the top drilled to suit and done couldn't see any difference of intake temps at cruising speeds it should help after a long thrash or on a hot day

lol now you tell us so spray pattern ain't the good ?

looks dam clean those black vinyl strips work well, gives me ideas

its just a bush with a ball join in it, just get it pressed out at pedders and get another non hicas pair pressed in

dandy nissan is great jeff at spare parts is a top block

yes

pretty cheap for brand new half shafts, some peeps sell used for 100 bux each so the 90 bux is to get the ball jont pressed out and non hicas bush( universal s13/r32 ankle bushes ) pushed in ?

wiki is usually fail for car specs vQ30 is a top engine, out performs the rb's and is a light alloy block http://www.vq30det.com - seems to be down ATM rwd vq30det is 1660kgs 280 ps (205.94 kw) / 6000 rpm 4wd rb25det is 1710kgs 260 ps (191.23 kw) / 6400 rpm

currently making 15psi at 3.7k on a hyper SS1 still need cam gear adjust, advance cas timming and a tune

i'll say it again NZ have it good lol so many imports floating around for next to nothing i like the factory silver on the lorrie

cheaper fuel

i used to make 10psi at 4k with a s2 r33 front/ 0p6 rear trubo on the rb20 with the stock smic for the gears, just confirm so its not a tooth or 2 off, the dot on the gears should match up with the cam gear cover backing markings double check cas timing stuffed cat? if its just turbo lag you can get adjustable cams , retard exhaust and advance intake shorten cooler piping tune

if it has an adjustable turnbuckle on the waste gate adjust it in ( smaller in length) by half a turn and go for a test drive and repeat could also be bad cam gear timing ifs its been touched recently

a question for the tuners or those in the know, is it possible to have an e85 tune that consumes fuel the same as running 98 yet makes power the same as running on 98 fuel, for example not tuning for max power on e85 yet priority no.1 is fuel consumption and power results match up to 98 fuel on max a power tune ? reason i ask is some people with smaller fuel tanks( 40L ke70's etc) and those that want their fuel to last just as long as 98 dont opt for the e85 route

gap them to 0.8 it wont hurt main reason you gap to 0.8 is poor coil packs or if your running 15+ psi

nice work will be eagerly waiting for full boost graphs stao, i figure your using 40mm 1 1/2" ID steam pipe ?

or you can just slightly bend the adjustable ones. check the pages on the confirmed ceffy parts thread

the coil ends of my coil packs are all burnt out and gone, running fine on 15psi gapped to 0.8 with no missfire / spluttering. put in a spare set about a year ago with nice looking coils etc and car was missfiring and spluttering all over the place so just goes to show you cant just judge them on just how its looks

^ aka exhaust manifold ports too small and dont line up with head ports which means theres bad flow

you ask as its tricky to weld cast iron ?

with it unplugged the default maybe at certain revs to the so injector duty goes up etc so it just idles on the bad pump, when you rev more it leans out and stalls? just throwing ideas around also try unplugping the ecu coolant sensor

^^ nic, link me if you've got more of that ceffy

^^^ dam that sucks, need a big scary dog or a few snakes hidden in that back yard to hold back the thief's dan's unite for vengeance ? lol