t_revz

^^ Too true!!! open the terminals up with a screwdriver to make them fit over rather than beating them down with something!!!

yes you can charge from there. when jump starting and charging you should put the negative to part of the engine to give the starter a better chance and because it usually well connected to the battery. sounds like the terminals of the charger were shorting out or trying to run something else whilst charging. i cant imagine what else. try it again and check before switching it on connections are good and cant short out

^^ have a read then have a go. if you dont have the tools then buy a cheap set as it wont be the last time they need replacing. depending on type of plug and the individual usual up for replacement every 5k-50kms

330cca for 33 gtst

i was going flat out up a hill when my fuel pump let go. detonation went sky high and i ended up with 5 broken pistons, 1 melted piston and 4 spark plugs that looked melted like that

heaps of products out there from sprays to greases to coat the terminals and seal them up.

if its the same as 33 gtst and you find a battery with bigger terminals, the earth and positive are only short leads that can be removed and get a sparky to crimp some new ends for you. i modified the bracket and now run a 1000cca CAT battery mostly for the stereo.

if it has only 3 terminals then 1 is power. 1 is earth through horn button. and last is output to horn. if you can match the wire colour from horn to relay then bridge that wire to power terminal and see if it works. then the earth terminal bridged to the chassis somewhere while relay is in place and it should click and send power to horn. if both of them tests work then you have a problem further up the earth wire in the cab.

hey mate im building mine now slowly and aiming for simular figures. was only 85 for big end studs and head bolts 250 from memory. worth investing in anyway. wouldnt worry about stock headgasket unless stock boost. i went king bearings but nissan ones are good as for the comment about getting block decked its not really that expensive unless you dont want to strip it right down. but if its out go 4 it. was quoted $260 for bore out 20 thou and hone. $82 to acid bath crank and polish. $82 to deck/mill block and acid bath. ended up getting that all for $250 mates rates but you never know if its been hot before and warped etc

looks good. mine have been sitting in oil for a bit and was going to do them later but might follow that link and do them next weekend. but i thnk i will use contact cleaner and spray them down rather than the carby cleaner if it takes 2 hours and the basket only holds 1 lifter at a time.

mine is rb25 but i went to nissan and told em to jam it. ended up coming good for me so havent chnged em but when i was looking i found aftermarket sets for 700ish. but have heard a few people say that if they are removed and the gunk cleaned off and re-fit normally quietens em down unless they have wear marks... detailed write up in the manual how to remove and re-fit if you have some tools and can grab a copy of the manual.

even if the heater is turned off it can still leak as only one hose has a tap on it. as Todd sys check the tutorial so you dont have to pull the dash out

when you dont use the air con for a while the seals in the compressor can dry out and you lose gas. if the liquid is from the aircon it will only be water and would mean the drain is blocked. but if its still leaking and you dont have an air con belt then it must be coolant from a leaking heater core or one of the hoses from the firewall to the core. turn the heater off for a bit to see if it stops, wipe a white rag on wet spot to see if its green(coolant). prob more chance of a weeping hose than the actual core.

^^ +1 mine packed it in going up a really steep hill with my foot in it, about 170kw. pistons 1-5 broken ringlands and number 6 melted. should be your first mod!!

^^^ +1 check your timing or borrow someones CAS

what part are you having problem with? taken the 4 screws out of cap and removed spring then put a socket on the nut within while holding the hex on the camshaft to undo it? then it should wiggle off...

hey guys, if anyone is interested i saw a poster while on a minesite in collie today advertising an upcoming event. Sep 5th starts 10am. check collie motorports group 4 more info

theres a few threads about q45 AFM`s and some say good and most say go Z32 AFM. i guess see how you go. also see sydneykid`s posts about oil control for race engines. im rebuilding my engine now too and looking at following some of his advice such as oil return from back of head back to sump but not all of it as mine doesnt make it to the track that often. goodluck with the datto!!!

you said above the 1v was missing in the positive lines but in the latest post you upgraded the earths and it didnt fix it.... did you fit various earth straps or positives or both. if it started after fitting imobilizer etc then check the voltage at the fuse panel as something may have been disrupted

black urethane like what holds windows in works well...

by the way just noticed your tutorial. theres 3 bushes within and really you only lubed up one. if your gonna pull it out then its worth undoing the through bolts and 2 phillips screws at the end of the motor and gently tapping the back cover off to lube that bush and inspect brushes. im guessing your is already back in but if not you should do it to get an idea of when it will need TLC again

the bushes within are actually porous. if you block one end with your finger then fill it with oil and finger on other end and compress it will push straight through and be held within to lubricate.

what did u find?

try switching the headlights on and off and see if its the same. could be a fault in the indicator circuit pulling the voltage down. have a search about wiring upgrades that should be done to mke the most of your upgraded pump.

if you can get another for 50-60 then do it. but keep it as a spare. if it fails it wont damage your gearbox. it would fail within.only thing they someties damage is flywheel but there arent any grind marks on your drive. it could also be the bushes within are worn and something is rubbing. im struggling to find bushes for mine to be able to put it back together.