Simon-S14

should always test when motor is warm or close to operating temp for most accurate figures

no the cam cannot be, however other issues could be worn keyway in the crank, causing the crank to rotate a few degrees out of timing, ive seen this one a few times now. was the comp test done with the motor warm, all plugs ut and throttle held at WOT while cranking?

i think the issue is more to do with blockin the air flow to the radiator and also transferring heat from the oil cooler to the rad, that said my temps are all perfect when hard thrashing so ive got no probs.

acctually it helps getting the box in if you "massage" part of the trans tunnel around the starter motor. i did this and it gave a bit more room to work with.

tune it already!

oh i missed the bit where you said you put splitfires in also. if thats the case, personally i'd go get some BCPR6ES coppers for around 25 bucks and see how that goes

easy, chances are the coil packs are playing up. So clean them up, silicon them up, and gaop those plugs down to 0.8mm and youi should have no drama;s

Hey guys, picked up this diff and i was wondering what the hell it was, theres no markings stating what it is. I know its a 2 way diff but i was wondering on brand/make.

well im getting these aftermarket cams anyway, i dont really have the patience for adjusting cam timing on the dyno lol. that said, if i come across some cam gears cheap n the next two weeks i'll give it ago

go take a pic of how you have it hooked up and post it up

it all comes down to suspension... my 32 with RB25 + 3071r making 265 rwkw will not wheel spin 1st 2nd or 3rd on the street on WOT applications... it just grips and HAULS, feels like a low 12 maybe high 11 second car! the minute you slap a gear or kick the clutch it just LIGHTS the tyres. plus its a drift car and its set up to grip pretty well!

Ok heres the deal, ive got an RB25 with a mapped RB20 ecu running the show, VCT is not operational and it has never really fazed me since with the decent tune on there its got loads more down low then the old rb20 anyway. I have since added a GCG supplied GT3071R with internal gate, it has the GCG cast .71 AR rear housing (a copy of the OP6 housing if you will) On boost, the car is an animal! goes pretty damn hard, makes 265 rwkw on 16 psi and 283 rwkw on 20 psi, since its a stock internal motor i keep the boost to 16, and i find its more then enough power anyway, BTW its a drift car. Heres my issue, i do find that down low suffers a little, its a little laggy and i dont believe its the turbo's fault but more or less a fault of not running VCT. I was thinking of adding some Jun spec 254 cams with 8.9mm lift. to improve the low to mid power range which is what im after, as peak power is plenty atm. Thoughts?

tried backing off the bleed valve?

the fact is, its very very difficult to get the glass out, most pros will manage it with the right tools without breaking the glass but they cant guarentee it! theres always a chance they might chip or fracture the glass. So get someone to give it a go, once its out its a piece of cake!

answered in order 1) Ecu has nothing to do with oil breathing system, if your not pushing huge boost and power and your not suffering from blow by then leave the stock breather arrangement 2) Sounds like you have a dicky stock oil pressure gauge which is very common on R32's fit an aftermarket one to verify actual oil pressure. 3) a small leak or busted turbo seal wont cause low oil pressure, worn out engines and stuffed pumps will cause low oil pressure, when i say worn out engine generally im talking about loose tolerances and high km motors. 4) i believe its constant flow as the feed comes off the the waterpump circuit, it would circulate in the block until the thermostat opens.

why dont you start telling us what your power goals are and what you want to do with the car. With the 3L bottom end you dont need huge revs to make good power

could be the crank angle sensor... once get hot, they can break down if the unit is a little tired.

not cheaply no... best bet is to start with a 26 block then stroke it with a OS 3L kit , as they use a spacer on top of the block.

generally with RB30's the crank isnt really whats limiting you from running more RPM, generally its the oil pump (if a stock one from another motor like a 25 or 25 is used) I havent heard of any crank failures anyway!

bump

a non hicas cradle... im not sure if 33's came in non hicas or not?

mine is mounted there, works a treat

just weld the bar thats in there

whats the number on your ECU?