Simon-S14

Well got engine out.. New motor is a good condition stock rb30e which will be left stockwith my 26 head put on along with arp books andmls gasket. Keeping it simple

yeah i might end up doing that. does anyone have measurements other then the PDF that are guarenteed to work

what timing belt do i use for a 26/30 combo if i use the two tensioner in stock location method? anyone got a dayco part number?

Hey guys due to popular demand we will be holding another Drift Techniques school at Tailem Bend on Sunday Aug 5th. Info and entry forms here! http://drifttechniques.garage7.com.au/

i personally think that the load rating on the 123's is a bit of bullshit.. they seem to be on par with lower rated tyres for wear, but the rating is what it is so that it passes various motorsport rulings around the world

you guys should really try the achillies 123s. for the money they provide awesome grip! not sure how they wear but would be better then an RSR ku36's are crap.. never touching them again

full set of good condition RB26 rods, Cheap upgrade for your RB25 build.. $60 set

the reason the NPC clutches are lighter then other sport clutches is due to the 10 inch pressure plate and larger spring area. i have a 180sx with an RB30e+t and NPC organic clutch with rb20 box... i drift it and clutch holds up well, that makes around 200 rwkw

you wont make that with a stock Neo turbo. so may as well sell it off and buy something like a Kando TD06 or a GT3071r. both will bolt on with some work required but well worth the effort

probably wouldnt do that too much... 3rd gear will strip in no time ive blown 3rd twice now.. but i do drift mine competitively and its always on a clucth kick that it blows 3rd...

and prob still work out cheaper then a Dog box haha

whats the question? its a Neo turbo by the sounds of it

yeah totally transformed that car... the 32 wanted to bake tyres in most gears on the street and wet weather was damn hard to keep it straight haha. My mate isnt the kind to muck around on the street, he wanted more grip and acceleration. the 3.7's made the world of a difference.

yup.. easy

All my tunes have been done in the same set up mode, ramp rate and temp probe on as what Trentuses, sorry to burst your bubble. One time it was tuned and made over 400kw however that was due to the temp probe not beingon thanks to the last user in the dyno taking it off

Funny how status gets similar results, had done back to back testing and doesn't find the same losses you claim

man i would rock the shit out of a holinger if i could afford it hahaha. cheapest i have found 2nd hand floating around was 11k and thats before cost of adaptor plates and shit. as for motor.. watch this space

you done?

motor and broken box coming out.... whats going back in?

some of us prefer tracks that have corners...

you can just put the GTR centre, halfshafts and hubs into your 33 without changing the subframe or the uprights.. it all bolts straight in. easy as. and yes.. you can mix and match. im about to put GTR LSD from my 4.1 r32 gtr diff into a 4.3 r200 diff and run the GTR halfshafts. as its easier tyo change ratio by changing housing rather then CW&P as for S13, R32 etc diffs. they will bolt into an R33, but you need to use the bolts that bolt it in... not the r33 ones. and you need to change the rear hat. you'd be suprised what can fit in what.

But r31nismoid said it was impossibruuu to make the power it did... Lol. So I'm not the only one who's done it now

Npc carbotic 10"

i usually run 255/40/17's in Achillies ATR sports or Federal 595. for calder park i tried some of the new Achillies 123s in 265/35/18 pressures usually around the 25/30 psi mark but i actually had to run the 123s higher at 45 psi just to get a decent drift going. the amount of grip and speed with the 123s is huuuuuuge!