Simon-S14

its really easy... if you get a r200 3.7 from s14 that has 6 bolt half shafts and your r33 has 5 bolt. then all you do is knock out thr 6 bolt flanges from the diff with a hammer and then do the same with the 5 bolt and then install in the new diff. then it bolts straight in

Aust spec s14 manual SR20det is 3.7... dime a dozen too. will bolt straight into an R33 and into anything else with ease,. mate of mine was having traction issues with 4.3's and rb30det powered r32.. so he put my 3.7 in and i grabbed the 4.3 off him... his was insane.. 2nd gear acceleration was massive as it just hauled instead of wheel spinning.

quick question... but the RB30 exstra deck height is above the water pump yeah? So the position of my engine fan shouldnt change after fitting a 30 block compared to 25?

yup single line from each pump. modified stock rail to become duel entry.. if one pump fails its possible the pressure will still taper off in the system

yeah most out of the box get around 270 ish rwkw. pretty proven tho once you go cam, valve springs, exhaust extractors, cold air intake, rod bolts, tune and your looking at around the 330 rwkw mark and 8000 rpm reliably.

its an RB25 box.. same as what i run. he just has an adaptorplate to run behind a SR. as for the roof... yeah its one hell of a big sun roof hahaha

either that or 3L bottom end haha

oh and FWIW i have lost 40 rwkw in the range and boost comts on almost 700 rpm later since i went to stock cams and RB26 head with short runners... not the best move. but it does sound awesome haha

overkill due to extreme track useage mainly

2x 044 with dual lines and modified standard rail to accept dual entry and single return

Hub dynos can read actual torque figures. actually they will calculate both tractive effort and engine torque. 34GeeTeeTee: its interesting to compare my previous set up with yours.. similar in some ways! heres mine.. shows calculated engine torque. went bloody hard when it was like this. im kicking myself for changing to the short runners and rb26 head set up

can the motor not be mounted furtherback? looks like theres heaps of room behind it

time for an update... first heres some pics and vids from calder. in car of Ben purtel.. thought it was a good vid cause it really showed the speed of it all and the amount of smoke my car generates haha another shot with me and Andrew Constatine from Tas... this was during prac session sat morning before my turbo blew. chased him 3 times like this.. first time i tagged his rear bar and you can see my corner light is missing as a result haha Update time: prepping for WTAC mainly.. that will be the next outing for the car. Diff is getting overhauled and new 4.3 gears. the New motor set up struggles a bit to turn 4.1's with sticky tyres which is why i blew 3rd probably. need an overhauled gearbox and then the motor is probably coming back out for a full check over also. fun times ahead.

you would only fit the boot on the car if you were replacing a non split boot. once the boot is split and driven around..you must remove, strip and clean then repack with new boot. Otherwise you run the risk of leaking dity in there which will destroy the CV's after a while

even better

You really need to clean the old grease out plus any dirty that may have found its way in and then repack it with new boot. If you took it to a drive shaft shop in sure they could do it same day for no more then 50 bucks

Declan from garage 7. Both an rb and bwm fan he is

pretty urgent ANYONE got a 4.3 R200 diff for sale? please PM me asap if you do

nice work... your spec list and mods is pretty much identiacal to what my neo powered s14 was when it was an all neo set up.. made 360 rwkw also.. was unreal! Motor would still be going today if it wasnt for stupid oil cooler line failing on track

buy a silvia conversion kit and make it fit the 31.. comes with crossmember and sump to suit... easy

yeah crown wheel and pinion will fit in any r200 carrier pretty much. only issue is you need a GTR lsd

why? you can retain the current uprights and cradle. just get a GTR diff. halfshafts and hubs. remove the stock gear and then bolt in the new GTR gear. it all bolts in with ease. if you break GTR halfshafts you're really rough haha

yeah carbotic is less likely to weld itself to the flywheel which is what extreme clutches do. pieces of junk they are, all non organic clutches have some degree of shudder to them but you can learn to drive around the problem.

do you have a GTR rear end? if not then do that

yeah thats spot on.. same clutch i run. i dont daily my track car but i did do 300 kms of street driving in tasmania in it with no probs haha