CruiseLiner

but its well worth it in the end

ya all lucky i dont actually use my car to drive, but to learn and study the stagea designs in and out over and over and over, damn it gets annoying. i use my negatives to help others if i can ive had every single thing disassembled from my stagea now and i mean everything!!! engine, gearbox, suspension, diff, axles, sump, interior, attessa stuff, dash, seats, fuel system, fuel tank, etc etc. one day ill actually drive it

as said b4 gtr front end stuff will fit and stagea rear will fit, dont know if they will match exactly together as i havent bought an off the shelf system, but if they happen to not meet up exactly a visit to a local exhuast shop and they could adjust the bend to make em join up perfect for about $100 max, so that aint a big deal. or just buy a stagea 260rs exhuast system if u r worried about it not bolting staight up. they wont be any difference in price to gtr/stagea parts anyway, and the just jap stuff is mainly just china made, hence the $5 price tags on everything. remember u get what ya pay for and u soon forgot u saved $20, etc off the purchase when it doesnt fit and requires modifications to get workin. the dump/front pipes bolt on the turbos and onto the gearbox so they should definately fit, and the stagea rear cat back will fit because its a stagea and the cat is in the normal spot same as gtr's so the bend might be a fraction out to join em but i highly doubt it. no one here has purchased the gtr fronts and stagea rear section so i guess u gotta decide to risk it or just buy the full 260rs system and be done with it good luck mate Brad

not operating correctly, low attessa fluid maybe (in the boot) ??? dodgy wiring, stuffed attessa pump, or anything related with the attessa stuff, try accessing the attessa ecu in the boot as per another post i showed pics of where its located and read the diagnostic light sequence and check it up on the workshop manual for what is the problem.

watch that knock level too, i had a tune from the same tuner and now i have a 2 peice piston thanks to the detonation, resulting in a cracked ringland. i was even refused to see the air fuel ratio graph from the dyno printout, which means he must have been real confident it was abit lean for safety. mates safc tuned soarer at same shop had afr's over 12.5:1 on 18psi and plenty of other tuners have said that is abit risky on a daily driver. luckily i got out of that joint before they had a chance to wreck my new engine good luck

hey mate, with the exhuast, u will need a cat back system from either rb25 or rb26 as they are the same (gotta be for a stagea NOT a skyline). the front pipes and dump pipes r different for the twin turbos on the rb26. id be using 3" cat back minimum and twin 2.5" or twin 3" front/dump pipes (one for each turbo), the bigger the better use a 3" or 4" magic or catco cat converter as well. unfortunately modifications aint cheap, but the exhuast is the first mod i would do on a rb26 for sure. hope it helps Brad

my autronics smc runs perfectly with idle and cold starts, etc with map sensors so i doubt that is the issue with microtech being "lower quality" than the others. im ripping out my autronics to try a pfc djetro, and a real tuner, unlike my previous tuners on the autronics who have been less than desirable. as said any ecu is only as good as the tuner, and autronics tuners in wa are either good and arseholes or just plain useless, hence my decision to swap ecus, and ive been told im stupid for "down grading" from some, but plenty have been saying how good the djetro units are also, so time will tell if its the right decision. anyone after an autronics smc (with auto tune), boost kit, 500r cdi unit and a set of msd coilpacks and all wiring to suit a gtr gimme a PM and ill let ya's know about it. wont be ready for sale for about 2-3 weeks or so though. cheers

my brand new hks to4z feels exactly the same i got worrried bigtime but it runs fine and spools and spins about 1 min after i turn the car off so its fine. feels abit wobbly even compared to a mates garret gt3040r, but i reckon the more loose the less friction i suppose. and the oil takes up the slack.

f**k funky what the hell is the 2 month wait for? y advertise to sell em if u aint got time to do it?

hey t04 gtr its in the cargo area at the back, on the passenger side behind the little compartment thing u can open up, its actually a fraction forward of that compartment. take the top window surround off, the compartment thing out, and they are all on clips mainly so beee careful they are brittle as hell. its screwed onto the metal frame and u will see the 100000 wires going to it when u remove the bottom floor panels. and yes they have a fault code light on the ecu itself. its a bugger to get the ecu out to look though so have fun ok heres a pic, the red arrow is where the ecu is mounted behind that panel, and he blue arrow is the ecu itself sitting out in the open. second pic is the attessa ecu itself. hope it helps Brad

what turbo? mods?

boost looks terrible, spiking like crazy and dropping off. nice power though, big turbo id imagine? what else is modified? air fuel ratios look nice and safe too what gear did they dyno it in? its weird it only makes peak power at 104kmh??? cheers

must of been jammed shut sorry, anyway it was just free boosting for ever pretty much

hey steve thats who made the current one i got and its great welding, and qaulity, just a bad design with only one side enlarged and trap doored plus the pickup has the cup thing around it too. ill post a pic up tommorow when i get 5 min

watch the gcg highflows, had a fellow forum member buy one and bolted it on and found the wastegate mounting spot was wrong and the gate was open fulltime, meaning full boost. not very good at all, and coulda cost him a motor as well, not to mention the costs of reinstalling (over $400) and 5 days without a car as well. isolated case i know but this still happens so check those actuators r closing correctly before u install them!!!

watch the gcg might be cheaper but dodgy wastegate setup and it doesnt end up sooo cheap. try a fulltime open wastegate on a brand new turbo, not very good from a company like GCG now is it costs people extra money and alot of stuffin around be warned to check the wastegate closes with the actuator installed, or u might be replacing the engine as well.

hey warpspeed, thats the sort of info im after, thanks mate. sounds like alot of work to maintain it upto scratch, and im sick of maintaining stuff and just wanna bloody use it ive done gearboxes, engines, diffs like 3 times each in the past couple of months but it gets annoying i still have been told ill have trouble with my enlarged sump as it only is extended on one side and has only 1 trap door setup. will have to either remodify the existing one or buy another off the shelf item. anyone know some good designs? ive seen the hi octane ones, any other brands worth looking at? i dont want the trust one as its wayyyy too low for my liking. thanks again everyone, awesome info Brad

trust t78/88 manifold is sweet, looks nice, havent used mine yet (well only 300km use) so i dunno about durability, but the jap gear is usually good. much better than the ebay crap ive seen around

yer this was about 4:30pm or so we seen em, have moved on about 6ish when we went back past, but still they sure do give people the shits when people just go to see abit of off street legal racing and end up costing them a day off work to goto pits and what ever other costs are for the sticker. illegal drags they should be stickering people and harassing but legal events is pathetic.

hey guys, drivin home today in the trusty bunky commodore from the drift wa event and had a mate in a gtr following behind and i got let through as the cops were waiting about 3 corners from the entrance and checking over cars. my mate come through slow as and they pulled him and stickered him, and proceeded to pull over alot of the imports leaving the event. i think thats pretty disgusting from the wa police. all the owners supporting the off road drift events and they get stuffed around by cops with nuthin better to do. they wonder why people dont re-attend these events knowing the possibility of a yellow sticker when u leave. shame on the police and they cant see why we dont think much of em i bet they dont sit there after the v8 supercar events and do the same

hey duncan cheers mate i searched last nite for "dry sump" and came up 20 billion topics about the word sump, but i tryed "dry" and searched through about 10 pages and found it. search isnt very specific is it, i search dry sump and u think the thread titled with both those words would come up first wouldnt ya, thanks again, nice info from sk and others. i would still like to know the negatives of having the dry sump setup on a street drivin car (under 300km a week use)? also Steve (NIB) let us know when its in if ya can for a look thanks Brad

pay someone, the dump pipes r a killer to get too, even with the motor on an engine stand, access to the nuts on the rear of the turbos is virtually impossible. turbos off job i'd reccomend and chuck those ceramic wheels out at the same time if u wanna avoid issues later and save 2x the labour. thats the beauty of a big single turbo, plenty of room just a thought Brad

i want to avoid any possibility of surge at drags and track, the engine might be going into a gtr yet later on, so with an expensive engine i want the best oil system and i remember DICKY on these forums with big power setup said he stuffed 2 $40k motors from drag launches with a trust sump and all the reccomended stuff, so it aint fail proof. the trust sump is stupidly deep too and i dont want that. for the cost of a jun pump $1000 good 9l sump is around $1500-2k thats getting up their and still not a 100% sure it will cope. ive spent 40k on the setup i doubt another 4k is gonna be excessive and a waste of money. its not a daily driver either its a weekend car so around 300km a week maximum. just cause its hard to do doesnt mean i'd just go for the easy/cheaper option because that can bite u in the arse later on. so whats the bad points u all seem to think besides costs? also yes the stock sump would have to stay because of the front diff. weight isnt an issue either, its reliability and knowing i can launch at 9k rpm and not worry about lack of oil around pickup. cheers again Brad

hey guys ive done a search and no info at all found. my uncle races a top comp drag car and he has been explaining the good points about the dry sump setups and why they are good for race engines, but i want to hear about street engines and the setup. i can get stuff modified and machined, etc from my uncles mates in the drag racing scene, but they dont know much about the rb26 and i want to know the finer details on making the correct setup work. so im after info on setting up a dry sump setup on a rb26 engine. i really wanted to retain the air con still and all the accesories with the setup. where can the pump be bolted besides the air con spot? whats peoples thoughts on the dry sump setups on daily drivin cars? reliability issues? how many stage does the main pump have to be? and what else is needed besides a custom oil pan (or does the stock one stay due to the front diff on it? how many feeds into the engine is needed? what size oil can to hold the engine oil and where to mount it? i understand how they work, but relating the info to the rb26 engine setup is what im after. the heat treatment gtr uses the setup and he modified chevy stuff to suit. u also need gilmor belt drives on all the pulleys as well? wheres some good places to buy reliable good qaulity pumps and parts? rough costs on the individual parts? how do u know how much oil at what rpm to feed and how much vacuum to suck it back out? im sure plenty of other guys are interested in details i can also get rid of the jun oil pump as well with the dry setup? ive got the jun pump, and enlarged wet sump and that stuff sold would be alot towards the correct dry sump setup. im plannin on this in the future depending on practibility and costs/problems. all the pros and cons of wet vs dry setups appreciated cheers Brad