strutto

Oh yeah, the only wire you have to cut is the AFM wire, the rest are taps. Apexi give you some bullet connectors for the cut wires so you can unplug the device and not have to resolder anything but IMO soldering is safer and more reliable... So far I've cut my speed sensor wire for the RSM, 4 pos and ref wires for the ITC, and the AFM wire will be cut any day now... Practising the taps is a good idea. I usually use a small pocket knife and cut all the way around the wire at both ends of the tap, then slice (gently, gently) down the wire and peel of the insulation...

hippy: ATM I have 138kw atw with 5psi (DIY bleed closed, factory bleed disabled), 3" front pipe (stock dump) and 3" cat back... Haven't had it dynoed with the boost turned up yet. If I get to 170kw atw with SAFCII, ITC and 9psi I'll be bloody happy... Currently the ITC is zeroed out and I intend on doing the same with the SAFCII until I can get some dyno time early next year. You?

I spy with my little eye, an R33 crossover pipe facing the wrong way and lying on its side. More info 666DAN! Details, we need details. And get it dynoed to!

Powerbands?

Crimping is ok but I have soldered all of my connections.. It's damn tight in there! And yes it does get messy. I've got an RSM and a SITC soldered in there ATM. The SAFCII should be here within a week. So that will be more frustrating times with my head jammed under the dash with a hot iron and a torch.... Then it will be really messy in there. Take your time and double check everything before cutting any wires... Mines auto too Hippy and all seems to be going just nicely...

Well done! I didn't think it could be done... The proof is in the pudding though...

Not 100% JimX but I think it only goes in one way... IE: the cam has a key hole and the cas has a key...

Bumpo

Size matters. Ask that girlfriend of yours...

You talking to me? You talking to me? You talking to me? Then who the hell else are you talking to?

Boot Trim?

http://cgi6.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?V...sort=3&since=-1

How rude! Nah just kidding. The CD/MD player was in the car when I bought it... It's an Addzest (Clarion) so has Jap frequencies. JBL 6.5" Front Splits were $180 from memory... Pioneer 6.5" Rear Coaxials were $80 Cerwin Vega 12" Subwoofer was free from a mate who had 4 in a Silvia but ended up swapping 2 for 1 x 15". Box was DIY for about $50. Alpine 5CH amplifier was bought duty free ages ago and follows me from car to car... Around about $400 IIRC. DVD Player was stickered at $750, advertised at $500 but I talked them down to $350... The LCD monitors are a funny story... I found them on eBay listed as 12V 7.5" LCD w/ PAL TV tuner, 2 AV inputs, 2 inbuilt games, remote and stand for AU$222 + AU$40 for shipping each. I ordered 1 and got the guys bank details. My bank charged me AU$30 to do a telegraphic transfer... So all up AU$292 for 1. Pretty cheap I thought. The guy confirmed payment and gave me a shipping receipt... It took about 10 days to arrive but when it did the box was much larger than I expected. I opened it up to discover 2 TV's identical to the 1 I ordered. I emailed the guy (in HK) to confirm delivery. I didn't mention the other TV. He replied and thanked me for my custom! So AU$146ea! Pretty damn cheap I thought! He is still selling on eBay too if you wanna know the link...

Good idea daveo but don't use that Nulon or STP stuff. Do it properly and use some Toluene... Not to sure how keen you are on carrying a 20L drum of Toluene with you though Duncan?

Thats how I understand it Duncun... The question is, can the ECU retard the timing enough to prevent detonation under high load and high temp conditions? I'd try for 95 as a bare minimum and avoid putting it under too much load... HTH

Great stuff JLNewton! I see you've added most of the pics I took on the Mt Nebo Cruise... Yell out if you want some more. Once the weather fines up, I plan on giving my car a good clean and taking some nice photos. If we're showing off our Dad's rides though, I'll get my Dad to bring the R34 GTR Vspec along too!

Paint Shop Pro! Got the shits trying to make circles and lines and text and boxes so I drew a picture and scanned it... Touched it up in PSP7...

Yep, thats the AAC valve. Fuel pump should be fine by the sounds of it... BCPR6ES should be OK. 0.8mm is a good gap. Get back to us on the BOV ey?

ph34r my l337 dr4w1ng sk1ll5!!!

1st pic is my setup ATM 2nd pic is how I would do what you want with my setup...

You need to have multiple inputs if you want to switch between them at the screen... You can make a remote switch yourself cheaply and easily but you need to put the switch somewhere... I wanted both my DVD and my CD/MD amped through the speakers. As the Amp only has one set of inputs (or to be more precise, 1 front input, 1 rear input) I had to make a remote switch to choose between the DVD input or the CD input... This setup could be used to switch between video sources as above if required... The screens I have do not have DVD or CD players built in... Perhaps a few diagrams may help...

Was the fuel pump new? BOV plumbed back? Changed the plugs recently? What plug gap?

I have an incar TV / DVD setup... I did mine all myself so I should be able to help with some of your questions... I have 6.5 splits in the doors, 6.5 coaxials in the parcel shelf and a 12" sub all powered from an Alpine 5 channel amp... A 2 Din MD/CD player in the dash, and an incar DVD player in the boot... A 7.5" LCD on the roof and a 7.5" LCD in the glove box. My screens have 2 AV inputs plus a TV tuner. My DVD player also has an AV input. The DVD output is shared to the 2 screens. I can plug a camera / console into any of the other available AV inputs. I have to manually switch audio inputs to the 5ch amp but this was easily accomplished with some RCA sockets, 2 relays and a switch... If you want a fixed in dash screen, look for something that has multiple AV inputs. Most DVD players allow you to play music CD's and MP3 CD's as well as DVD's so bear that in mind. HTH

Happy Birthday to you, Happy Birthday to you, Happy Birthday dear Nexus9, Happy Birthday to you, Hip Hip! That pic arrived yet or what?

Nissan Matic D is recommended. Closest I've seen is Castrol Transmax Z. $60 for 4L Remember that our auto's are the same as what is used in the 300ZX and the Pathfinders... Can be useful when searching for info / specs...