blind_elk

Won't help - the hydaulics will simply pick up the slack again. And you risk popping the pin out of the slave cylinder You need to adjust the connection onto the pedal - it's current state of adjustment is probably not releasing the hydraulic pressure fully. There should just be some free "slop" of the rod when the pedal is up.

WAY too much, particularly when combined with bigger injectors and a stock ECU. Spec is around 37.

Pretty certain they do, down by your right knee, just like a 32.Fluid in the reservoir is at the right level (checked with IGN = ON)? TPS connection is working?

That's the reason for owning your own tyre gauge - at least it will be consistent between servos.

Are the tyres all the same size, in terms of wear. If not, then you have a different rolling radius - you're right ebola, it's really smooth off the tongue! - front and rear. If you have replaced only one pair, try swapping them to the other end of the car. One other possibility is a localised wear pattern on the TPS which may send a variable voltage signal back to the ECU.

I'm running 36 all round, because that's what the manufacturer recommends (B/S Potenza G III, 235/45x17). When it's wet, INCREASE front tyre pressures - holds the tread open for better water dispersion.

Anyone else? Roy?

It wasn't clear from your first post - it's ALWAYS been like this? Are the tyres and rims ALL the same? Have you checked the ATTESSA reservoir?

Well, someone has gotten hold of the prickly end of the pineapple. The cams don't have to get themselves "in the right position". The cams have a constant angular relationship to the crank, so they are either in the right position or they aren't. Is this engine running aftermarket ECU? (if its making power, then it probably is). What is the fuel pressure while cranking? Does the water temp sensor for the ECU work? Does the AAC valve work properly? Does the Cold Start Air valve (under the inlet plenum) work properly?

I went "tyre shopping" this morning, and got some tech specs on B/S G IIIs. Approved rim size for 215/45x17 is 7" - 8" Approved rim size for 225/45x17 is 7" - 8.5" Approved rim size for 225/40x18 is 7.5" - 9" These figures are based on the 2002 ed of Tyre & Rim Assoc of Oz Standard Manual.

Works just like the GT-R's. Activates: when the rears lose traction under hard acceleration under cornering - the harder you corner, the less FWD is applied under rapid throttle application. PM me if you want to bring it around and we'll have a look at it.

As with most things to do with working on a Nissan these days, if something is restricting access to the bit you want, remove it. If it's anything like the R32, there is an IC pipe in the way, right? Remove it.

If you remove the wheel, you will see it, basically connecting the top of the brake rotor across to the strut tower. The problem you probably have is shot bushes - check Whiteline for a set of urethane replacements (both sides)

According to the workshop manual: Try with temp sensor disconnected Check temp sensor resistance value - 0.3k ohms @ 80C Check temp sensor output voltage - (pin 1 to earth) 1V @ 80C Check fuel pressure - remove vacuum hose from regulator, or clamp return line. Cranking speed OK?

Lock it with the key. Personal experience says this is the safest way to not lock your keys in the car!

BH_SLO32 suggested that the ECU needs a minimum voltage to "stay alive". If you are dropping below that threshhold during cranking, then the injectors aren't going to be working because the ECU has run out of power. Have you tried a jump start so you have a good 14V (from running jump engine) sitting behind yours?

I didn't ask about whether the tyres held pressure or not; I was simply stating an opinion that I believed 235 tyres on a 10" rim was not an appropriate combination. I did not ask about the likelihood of it having happened, I asked how you knew it didn't; and the answer is "you don't". If what they are claiming is true, then no (reputable) tyre place would have even contemplated removing the tyre for fear of damaging it. In that case, you would be stuck with a tyre AND wheel that would have to be tossed. Which did you want more - the wheel fixed or the tyre undamaged?

Yes they DO. If you modify a vehicle so it then exceeds the ratios, then it's illegal (yes I realise it's harder to detect / determine).

And the O2 sensor certainly isn't being used at cold start. It needs to be hot, for one thing. Then it needs the engine to be close to a stoichiometric mixture (and cold start is RRIIICCCCCHHHHHHH!)

I reckon a 235 on a 10" rim is pushing it a bit. 235s sit nicely on 8s, and should be OK on 9s, but 10s... How do you know the damage to the rim didn't also damage the tyre? Which did you want more - the rim fixed or the tyre undamaged?

hey will be aftermarket units. The adjustment will be bump and rebound.

Someone had one a few years ago - similar to this problem. Turned out to be a crack in the weld of the IC endtank; it was fine under normal driving, but open up as soon as boost was applied. The coughing and farting suggests overfuelling because the AFM has told the ECU how much air, but that air then escapes on boost. Check all your connections and welds in the induction system.

If you have a problem at .6bar, then it's not a spark gap problem. Gapping the plug only masks the real problem. Read this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=130557 before you decide on a plan of action.

shocks - any good suspension place (Traction Tyres, Rowville) exhaust - any half competent exhaust shop gearbox - try Lindsay at ZShop in Glen Iris other stuff - try Autosport in Bayswater North.

Get one of the windscreen repair mobile units (like Novus) to come and check it out.