MR331307

Yeah $800 Cheaper and when it comes time for ignition upgrades ...... The HALTECH COMES WITH A BASE MAP and is PLUG and PLAY I personal dont like the APEXI computers.The Haltech is more advanced. If you want a Good ECU with closed loop that works Acurate Chose either HYDRA,MOTEC,Autronic

I wouldnt tune a car in the top end with Closed loop anyway The haltech is the way to go mate i installed one in a customers car around 3 weeks ago his getting 380 kms out of a tank and the car is making around 400 rwhp The tuning points are more finer and it is a benefit later when changeing ignition systems ETC Even with large injectors the haltech can tune very fine.This skyline i just installed the ecu in has 850 or so cc sard injectors The haltech is plug n Play gets rid of the AFM its $2750 Supplied installed and dyno tuned.

ALL ABOUT THE FLOW And the way the engine breaths the more bolt ons the better 440 RWKW out of my one standard motor

VERY VERY TRUE but also i think ur first graph is a little out the IT is 42 while at uni group is 21 or so half watch out for these things and yeah give us a little more information on what u have tried

Umm yeah you should be making more power i dont think you will need to do the head i think ur should get the manifold on and not worry about intercooler piping Is the exhaust manifold top mount or side

READ MAX POWER OUT OF STANDARD RB25

Hello does anyone know where the Fuse is or what the problem is i have power to the Key ignition but none to the dash ecu etc

its very easy just read the instruction manual and you shouldnt have a problem but you gotta remember the Dis 4 only runs 3 in and outputs so this will suit a wasted spark setup if you dont wish to run your ignition this way you might get M & W coils and CDI units which i dont recommend in your application as they are VERY expensive

What ecu u running And the more spark the Better mate The idea of a DIS 4 is the MULTIPLE SPARK IT produces.If you test it the standard ignition with produce 1 strand of spark while the discharge Boxes produce multiple on the same plug,The more Spark you have the more fuel you burn the more power you make. I say change coils for now so you dont have to run minimal gap on the plugs and when you make over 400 kw upgrade to the dis 4

Your from WOLLONGONG i see TAke it to HB sales in Fairy Meadow I got my head done there and am getting the same conversion on another head there to And there fairly cheap ill get the number for you tomorrow

lol im not champ STIRRING UP as he does to me

That photo SUITs ya

Tyre sizes might give you a bigger hp reading or not its EXACTLY THE SAME AT THE TRACK the smaller the tyre the more revs you have in the top end the bigger the less Thats when you change gear ratios ETC and do you know gear ratios also make a difference on a dyno As do on the track Most DYNO QUEEN cars Run a 3.11 or so gear ratio to help load the dyno more giving a Incorrect reading. 99% of our skylines run a 4.11 4.36 gear and same as most toranas and v8`s The Shootout mode was designed For COMPARSION from dyno to dyno as mentioned early. In order for you to be happy then RUN A AIR TEMP SENSOR JUST AFTER YOUR THROTTLE BODY and get the temperature there and match it on the air temp sensor on the dyno. What about cars with nitrous and cooler fuel do you wanna take this into account as well Nitrous i think is around -50 or so when entered into the manifold and heats up as it goes it what do you do there ...................................................................... Anyways like i said TUNING TOOL

i like that quote you got there heres something for ya

On a dyno day if there are 10 RB25DET skylines they all run off SHOOT 6F if there is a V8 turbo car there then it runs shoot 8F.The ramp rate doesnt change Dramatically,Just minor to suit the TORQUE Of the V8 You gotta remember that you cannot run the same load on a V8 as to a 4 cylinder as it will be to much load or not enough if opposite (Is ramp rate the "resistance" created by the dyno in order to read torque? If so, if you have a 600nm 4 cylinder and 600nm v8, the shouldnt both use the same ramp rate?) RAMP RATE = LOAD ON rear wheels And like i said if your cars spinning its either not strapped right or bold tyres or somethings seriously wrong i have had my skyline on there constantly one after each other and never broke traction on a dyno dynamics dyno. I think the only way to break traction on Power is if your car is making over 3300 foot pounds of torque.You figure this out doing a TRACTION TEST ON a dyno and as for a higher mode reading more i dont think thats correct Maybe the AIR TEMPS once again have changed.If you had the load of a v8 on a skyline would read less

TUNING TOOLLLLLLLLL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Maybe the air temps changed i tune on these dynos and when i go for a run on the street and log it i find the air fuels to sit perfect

Yeah i know they should but it doesnt mean anything on the printout.The way to see if somethings wrong is checking the temps etc like i said.The correction rate is something for the dyno itself to use or the tuner.When you are off shootout mode the ATMOS2 i think its called which is the Correction rate can be manually set to whateva you want while in shootout this is locked and cannot be changed. any dyno run off shootout mode can have all these little things adjusted giving false readings. but once again TUNING TOOL

$67000 onwards i know the state of the air 4 wd with all extras is around 160000

Hello to everyone I just wanna start with A DYNO IS A TUNING TOOL and should be respected as that.If you want to test your car to see what power its putting down Hit the Track and get a MPH i just wanna explain how shootout mode works from my KNOWLEDGE Shootout mode was designed by dyno dynamics around 3 years ago.It was designed to remove all VARIABLES and help dyno tuners in setting up vehicles.By variables i mean RAMP RATES.Now when tuning a car you must use a correct ramp rate on it.If the wrong rate is used the car will be out of tune. Dyno dynamics have got a couple modes setup when using shootout SHOOT 4 (NA 4 Cylinder) SHOOT 6 (NA 6 Cylinder) SHOOT 8 (NA 8 Cylinder) SHOOT 4F (TURBO,NOS,SUPERCHARGED 4 Cylinder) SHOOT 6F (TURBO,NOS,SUPERCHARGED 6 Cylinder) SHOOT 8F (TURBO,NOS,SUPERCHARGED 8 Cylinder) and modes for Rotarys Im unsure what each ramp rate is set at but have found if tuning on a low set mode will have the car out of tune and reading more HP then its actually got due to the ramp being lighter spining easier.If you use a Higher set mode such as shoot 8f the car will have too much load on it and read less hp. The mode also has inputs such as DAY TEMP,HUMIDITY,BARAMETRIC PRESSURE,AIR TEMP.When you enter the DAY TEMP,HUMIDITY & BARAMETRIC PRESSURE it shows these on the CORRECTIONS TABLE on the Printout.This is used when comparing dyno to dyno to find out why your car made less or more hp.The AIR TEMP is Measured from a Sensor which should be located near the POD FILTER.A good inlet temp should be no more then 40 Degrees.If hottier try to get more cold air there(COLD AIR DUCTING,POD ENCLOSURE ETC).These temperatures go into a Calculator which also sets a correction rate to work out HP on the dyno.A normal correction rate is seen by a dyno operator and should be around .900-1.00 any more and it will read more hp then you actually got.The ways to cheat on shootout is running the inlet temp hottier (Near or on the exhaust)which then you will see a correction rate of around 1.1 1.2 which reads alot more then your making. The other inputs you have are What gear your doing the run in and tyre pressures.The usually NAME,CAR,PLATE is on there as well and this is done during the setup of the run. Make sure your dyno tuner has a WEATHER STATION in the dyno room if you want a correct HP run and watch the inlet air temps etc. During the run the car should be in a gear closest to 1.1 ratio.If you hit the speed cut which normally you wont on a skyline you can drop down a gear to 3rd.The load and hp figures are the same and dont vary much maybe on 5 -10hp. The dyno dynamics dynos also have state of the art Rollers which help grab the tyre as its spinning and most dynos also run a traction CONTROL bar which you find the Straps located on.What happens here is as the car rolls onto the front roller (which its supposed to do) it pulls the car down on the roller reducing it from spinning.I have had mark hayes on the dyno and managed to get 1172 RWHP or so out of his car on the rollers which traction problems. If you do have traction problems you should check Tyre Pressures,Tyre Treads etc Tell me your opinions on the mode and what experiences you have had or what you know thanks

SHOOT81 HUH never seen that before The shootout mode has 6 modes SHOOT 4 (NA 4 cylinder) SHOOT 6 (NA 6 Cylinder) SHOOT 8 (NA 8 cylinder) SHOOT 4F (turbo,NOS,Supercharged 4 cylinder) SHOOT 6F (turbo,NOS,Supercharged 6 cylinder) SHOOT 8F (turbo,NOS,Supercharged 8 cylinder) theres a mode for rotary too All have pre set Ramp Rates.If your not using the correct ones it isnt the Dynos fault or problem.Just bad Dynoing.AND if you can Brake Traction on a Dyno Dynamics dyno you have problems as i have had mark Hayes on my dyno Running 1142 RWHP and it didnt have a problem.Maybe suggest NEW TYRES Like i said If its used correctly its the best method for TUNING AND finding out how much hp your cars got. Just remember A DYNO IS A TUNING TOOL :sorcerer:

these run with the standard lifters if your running more then 18 psi of boost i reccomend changing Valve springs but these cams are a direct bolt in

All you need is an ECU which runs a Air temp sensor and it compenstates the difference If your temps are cooler you can run more timing and modifying fuel if they get hottier you reduce the timing When i data loged my car at the track and the dyno they were no different so this means the tune doesnt change. you also have to have an intercooler Sufficent to your engines needs if you had an aspirated engine Yes this makes a huge difference but with an intercooled car nothing changes if its setup right. The reason why the Hp changes on shootout is because the air temps go up and down when i enter the temps the Correction Factor doesnt change but if i put the sensor near the Exhaust or in a bucket of cold water it does. like i said before the temps entered are only for the Corrections table The reason for this is when you have the car on my dyno it might read 250 rwhp but on someone else same dyno reads 260 hp you can have a look on the sheet and see what temps are different. Shootout mode also has a set RAMP RATE which you select and on turbo skylines will be SHOOT 6F which has a pre set Rate which you run your car on When a dyno isnt run on shootout mode the Ramp rates need to be entered in and if the ramp is too much it will read less power and have a different tune to what its supposed to and if its set really low will show higher HP readings and same the tune will be out by not being Enough. People should respect Shootout mode and stop banging it as dyno dynamics didnt invent it for nothing. I find tuning in shootout mode you wont need to do a ROAD TUNE as well.Because it loads the car up perfectly.I have done alot of reasearch into dynos and have found the Dyno dynamics to be the best for PERFORMANCE.If you want the extra DATA LOGGING computers like mainline ETC its just a extra option

and sorry i dont know everything like you do maybe you should open a shop PS that photo SUITS ya big time

it doesnt ring dyno dynamics A dyno tuner should have a Weather station in the room of the dyno To input the different temps ETC