frx026

Hey, i cant post pics, long story. But i can email them to you. Shoot me a pm with your direct email addy.. I think you might be surprised by what i send through

go for the mongoose. tried, tested, good system. as for qld installers chris rogers from these forums is the guy. good work, knows his SH(* and looks after a lot of cars from sau..

as a second for this.. the vdo mps1700 splits sound great in an r33 and offer awesome bang for buck

I had the opportunity a little while ago to build a full on demo car. I mean, no budget, any gear. Awesome experience. Our first design used inverted subs. They box was mm perfect. It sounded like crap. Did a few experiments and this is what i found. By inverting the sub it effectively reduces the cone area of the woofer. The cone that sees daylight through the basket, magnet and motor structure of the sub is less than the sub when it it is traditionally mounted. We actually got a brand new sub, layed it face down. Shot a thin coating of paint of the back of it so it would fall on the exposed cone. Then, after it dried, cut the cone out of the woofer and added up the cone area that had paint on it, ie - the parts thats were firing out directly. The results meant our 12' woofer was about the same cone area as a 6" speaker. It certainally showed in the results of the sound. it sucked. we had no low bass at all. just a higher mid bass type response. definately not the sound you want from a demo car that is meant to impress. Sure the subs looked cool all exposed. but sound was lost. We also did some experiments about porting vs sealed with inverted and tradiationally mounted subs. In all of what i did inverted made less output. The test car was a hyundai coupe. We used an audio control RTA to measure spl and a sweep was used to determine the loudest spl figure. To put some of this in perspective. 2 x 12 inverted netted us 128db, 2 x 12' traditionally mounted netted us 145db. Box was the same sealed box, amps were the same. I know it is a huge jump 128 ->145. we actually checked the equipment was functioning correctly before going to far. Unfortunately it was. While i wish you luck, and hope your setup works i just thought i would share my experience with inverted subs.

+ 2 Slotted rotors + good pads and you'll have heaps of braking power

question for decim8. seeing as you have a alpine and a fusion amp. I'm guessing the alpine rins the front/rears, the fusion nv class the subs. Have you noticed a large turn on bang through the subs every time the system is powered up?

Have a read of the fine print on the policy, unlimited mods yes, illegal mods no Are you sure, when i got my 33 RACV wouldnt touch it because it more than two mods, suspension, wheels, ebc BTW - i'm 33 rating 1 and have been for years

i run a 96 r33, standard airbox with a k+n panel filter in it. Seems to keep up quite nicely with a few other mods.. Repco for about $90 or so..

A little while ago I saw one of these sytems in a car and working. The car was a 2003/4 commodore The car was fitted with 6 camera's. 1 - in the dash cluster facing the driver 2 - right b piller facing outside 3 - left b piller facing outside 4 - rear bumper facing outward 5 - front grill facing outwards 6 - rear parcel shelf facing into cabin All the camera's hooked to a central hub. The hub connects to a portable hard drive which has video out and runs through a dvd headunit in dash. All cameras can be on screen at the same time. One camera can be on the screen. Using a wireless network adaptor the car could send the pictures to a remote screen ( in side house). The whole system was hooked to a gsm paging type alarm. Quite a cool system, all of the shelf parts, and yes it was the TLC mob i mentioned earlier. Camera's are waterproof and have paintable surrounds so they can hidden in the cars paintwork/ interior. Just thought this further info might help.

You need to talk to a lawyer that specialises in litigation. You may be able to sue the guy that hit you or sue just cars for more money. It is pointless asking on a forum because everyone will have a sllightly different version of what they beleive to be the right course of action. Talk to a lawyer. Also if you have not already you ashould have visited the local police station and filed a report. The driver that ran into you could also be charged for a few things. It may not get you any moneu in the pocket, but it might make you feel a little better knowing he has been screwed by the law.

My mates ans I often refer to these rich euro drivers as dinbots D...Dual I...Income N...No B...Brain O...Or T...Taste maybe that explains a poor choice of plates...

there is a company here in Melbourne that imports this type of equipment. You could have a camera facing front/rear with one each side of the car all recorded to a hard drive and able to be watched split screen through a standard monitor. I have no idea of costs bu the company is located in dandenong and is called TLC National. You want to speak to Tony. He is a bit of a bogun but would be able to supply you with this and other interesting security devices.

you are better off going to a specialised workshop, having a proper fitment with a product sold in australia with warranty. You got the car, and if you wanna keep it safe it will cost you a few bucks. And for Qld fitters see Chris.

No, They are a total waste of time. Get an alarm with an inbuilt multi point immobiliser. Better Protection and harder to bypass than a kill switch.

I have used a heat gun sometimes, especially here in melbourne in the middle of winter when it is so cold. But Chris Rogers in QLD would most likely never have to use one. The key is to take your time. Clean the surface well with a wax and grease remover. Apply the sound deadening one sheet at a time.

by another alarm, it would be easier and protect the car better

Most of the sound deadening commercailly available is made from the same stuff anyway. Just make sure you clean the surfaces well, then make sure the deadeding sticks. You should notice quite a difference in general output and midbass response from the speakers.

This is why we dont let primary school kids work on cars. You need to 1- fix the constant feed to the deck, take it off the hazards and use the factory loom 2 - replace the fuse for the factory radio constant 3 - disconect the radio earth from the vehicles illumination wire 4 - replace fuse for taillights 5 - re-earth unit to chasis 6 - go and get big stick 7 - belt "your mate" over the head with it many times 8 - feel better 9 - get him to pay for the reapirs to your console easy....

I dont care about his personality, I was looking at it professionally and recommending another company with superior skills that are in a similar geographical area.

Dont take your car to Brett and Alex at Performance. He is not a good alarm tech and simply reads off a cheat sheet. Go to Stylin down the road, they actually know stuff.

Paid. Email Sent. Please let me know when this item can be picked up. Thanks

it actually sounds like you might have a flat battery in the car. Try connecting the car to a jumper pack/other car/other battery. If it is the battery in your car that has died you will find the siren will become loud, your remotes will work again and the car should start. If this is the case, get the car checked for a current draw while parked to make sure that nothing is staying on while you leave the car, classic example is when the boot light stays on and it runs the battery flat. People blame their alarm, but in reality it is the result of a crappy instal of the alarm. Try it and let me know how you go. Cheers

Hi Mate, Please put me down for a r33s2 std bar deflector in black. Thanks

Hi, If it will work on a 1996 s2 r33 put me down for one. Thanks

try your local Autobarn/repco most of those stores sell a one way set of screws specifically made for number plates. The heads will only allow the screws to be tightened.