W0rp3D

When you say the auto is rebuilt do you mean a standard rebuild or it has been modified, been thinking about going auto just unsure how much rwkw they hold standard and how much needs to be done to them to hold around 300rwkw as a manual

http://www.fueltech....pdfs/HalE6K.pdf You dont think it has something to do with the fact that the e6k is near on 10 yrs old now and used old technology, how many companies do you know of that keep producing things for 10yr old hardware when there goal is to always develop newer technology?

not much more than the vg30 hiflow may even improve once i remove the exhaust restriciton.

Lol, who says that its there just for the noise? I don't have room to run a standard bov return since I put a 3540 and stainless manifold on, so I had to choose between a block off plate or atmo bov, i f**king hate atmo bov's with a passion and dose is a lot easier to control than the noise of an atmo bov, you assume too much!

And I think you'll find the e6k does sequential injection any way

If you have local tuner that is good with haltechs and everything is truly plug n play IE: no chopping up the loom, then yes, it changes everything, go the haltech.

Do you know some thing no one else does because I have never hear any one say that haltech are shit.

Will also be selling my power fc with hand controller, looking for $900 firm.

Still here, open to offers.

I would go with nistune, for your set up it would be easier and cheaper, and if you compare the difference in price(you cant put aside the price factor) V extra's you will get with the e6k then there isnt enough there to warrant going the haltech. I dont know if it has changed now but many yrs ago haltech were one of the best you could get but there were very few people who knew how to tune them. Hands down i would go with nistune before haltech, i would even go with power fc before haltech for your car.

I was there, the R31 was by far the fastest thing out there but he just couldnt keep it on the track with moves like that, he went of 2 or 3 times in that race and they also he to do a drive through (i guess to replicate a pit stop) when he got on it at the top of the exit leaving the pits it died, he rolled all the way down and onto the track and almost came to a stop before he got it started again, its an awesome car to watch and they will be back at sandown at the start of november.

And your telling me that the pressure inside the crossover is not going to push that little flimsy bit of tin out, even a couple of mm's is enough to create a leak and f**k things up, even if by some miracle it stays sealed, which i dont believe it would, i wouldnt want to risk it and would be willing to pay the $20 if i couldnt make one my self!

FYI For those who got the ones that ended with U01 you got the better ones They are GTR ones and are better (apparently) than the U02's which were GTST But on the bright side you all got the best coils you can get (apparently) ppl dont usually buy then though because they are normally over $1000 from nissan.

Mine did the same thing when I had a couple of snapped manifold studs.

I believe fc hako comes with usb not serial port and is cheaper than datalogit.

The back of the diff where the cradle bolts on

How do you round off a nut when your using the right size socket? are you sure its not the ratchet slipping? try using a breaker bar and see if it still slips. Only other thing i can think of, assuming you havnt round it off too badly, buy an impact single hex socket, in the mean time just keep soaking it in WD40 every 30 minutes or so, by the time you get a socket tomorrow it may have made a difference.

If your building it from scratch is there any reason to put sides on it? If I was building a purpose built car trailer I would leave the sides off and use guards that mount directly to the axles like hot rods so you have max clearance for opening doors.

Blitz bov sold 6x factory gtr coils (Will also fit S1 R33 and R32), all worked well, i replaced them with yellow jackets when i put the 3540 on $120 NOW ON EBAY 1 piece split dump pipe (i believe its a jjr one) $150 S1 igniter, once again bought to fix a problem, it wasnt the igniter either, i have 2 of these $90 each. Factory gearbox speed sensor, came off a S1 R33 gtst no idea what other models it would fit, one again bought to fix a problem and that was not the problem $60 Battery box, no strap or brackets $30 All prices are negotiable so throw me an offer, will also swap for an unmolested Mspec front bar and reo (happy to deal if you have either or both) for a S1 R33 gtst.

feel free to make an offer.

Post pics of the blended one, wouldnt mind seeing how good nokia has done.

IM about to sell my power fc and change to nistune but i would like to save the map off the power fc just incase i need it, only problem is the car is not movable atm, will buy fc hako if i have to but would prefer not to as i most likely will have no other need for it. Im in the frankston area, pm or msg me on 0421 804 167 if you can help. Thanks.

And dont bother using the 3" top section then 3" metal pipe bend and a silicone joiner, the ribs in the stock elbow end up creating a restriction because they get bent and wont line up with the metal pipe properly, i know this first hand, i spent hours trying to get it work. I got a 6" bit of pipe had 2 smaller pipes welded to on on a 45 degree angle (one for the bov return and the other for the catch can return), cost me a $150 but if your not in a hurry im sure you can find some one to do it, i then used 2 45 degree silicone bends which i trimmed to length and fit, now everything has a nice clean intake path. For the rest, if you have a little bit of knowledge go to the DIY section, there are threads in there on how to fit injectors and afm (and you will need a fuel pump if you dont have one) and probably the turbo as well, its all pretty simple, will save you a lot of cash and then you just put it on a tow truck to get tuned.

Im guessing there the 3, where is the blended one? or is that the missle one?

They wouldnt be 8.5 wide, mine are 8.5 and easily fit 235, 255-265 would be a stretch depending on proflie, i would guess 6.5-7.0 wide.