mad082

about to take 1 of these for a test ride http://www.apollobikes.com/bikes09/id/6/ci...09/title/Enduro just built it up. have to make sure everything works properly......... funny how it's only expensive bikes i take for pre-sale rides, LOL

ok, lets try this again (internet explorer just closed itself and i was nearly done explaining) shoes are about $200. most bikes come with clip pedals. i would recommend the apollo giro c. goes for about $3000. can't remember the exact amount and am home so can't look it up. it runs 105 10 speed with is just dura ace from about 3 years ago. personally i would spend any money on a more expensive goup set because you won't get any better performance (other than it weighing a few grams less). all you really get for the extra money is the wank factor that you can tell people you have that model gears. this would be my pic of the bunch. i was actually thinking of buying one for myself. or one of the alloy frame models. the computer keeps chucking the shits so i can't get the spec on which model but will do it on tuesday. if you go into a bike shop and they try to tell you apollo isn't good, ignore them. all the gears etc are going to be indentical to any cannondale or giant, etc running the same groupset. everything is brand name on road bikes so you look at what you get for your money. i know high end bike shops that buy apollo road bikes to strip all the parts off and stick onto other brand frames to sell.

dunno, will try to get an ETA on tuesday (monday is public holiday here)

i just saw the price of these kits. wow, that's a lot. i reakon i could easily make kits for about $150 using good quality struts

my mate has bonnet struts on his ceffy. i asked him about them and he said they were stock r33 ones. will have to investigate.

if you like it, and it all works good then $150 isn't too much. and yeah, remote lock out is teh shizzle. i don't have that unfortunately. my bike is a 2007 model and the cheapest bike in the range with remote lock out back then was $1100rrp, mine was $700rrp (but i got it when it was on special so even with gst and freight it was less than normal wholesale). i got it because it only has v-brakes and not disc. but it is running a full deore groupset (gears, brakes, hubs) and then i put skinny tyres on it and my carbon fibre aero seat post on it, LOL.

yeah that makes a big difference. i have a lock out on my forks which i leave on most of the time since i only really ride on road. i unlock it just after the hill from the house cause most of the rest of the way is either flat or down hill. going home is mostly up hill so i lock it out

nice. how front heavy is it now? cause those boxxers aren;t exactly light at just over 3kgs

i've never had much of an issue with dirtworks in the 8 years i have been dealing with them. some of their prices can be a bit high though, but no different to 99% of all the other suppliers though. i know of plenty much worse suppliers to deal with that sell much more high end stuff and are jerks simply because they know that if people want the stuff they have to deal with it. and because the customers are uneducated they still want the stuff despite the fact that they could get better stuff from other brands for less money but won't because the other brand doesn't have the wank factor. as for pro bike kit, people who buy stuff from overseas sites are only making prices of bike parts through australian distributors more expensive. plus you are also making service costs more expensive. also warranty issues for stuff bought outside australia must be dealt with through who you bought it off. so while you may save money buying stuff overseas, if you need to claim warranty on it it may end up costing you a heap more. kenny, pm coming

giant would just instruct the shop to get a lever from dirtworks (australian distributor of hayes) and it would be something they keep in stock. um, no. the whole reason for less spokes in wheels is for aerodynamics. as far as weight distribution goes, it will all be pretty much equal. instead of having the weight distributed evenly over the wheel it will be concentrated in only a few spots. so as i said it will even out. rolling resistance is usually determined by tyre width, tread design and pressure. less spoked wheels are also more prone to buckling and warping and are much harder to straighten as you can't use spoke tension to straighten it. as for price, what a decent set of multi-spoke wheels will cost you for your bike, you could buy a road bike to use on the road and go faster than a mtb with slick tyres. and trying to find some to suit your bike is going to be near impossible. pretty much no one makes them for 26". although unrelated, i thoroughly recommend people watch this video

you are the unstopable force, lol. a fat man chasing an icecream van

yeah, the tektro brakes seem to stop jase, and he's a buck20, LOL

kenny, i had a pm ready to go but the computer chucked a shit and shut it. i will redo it shortly but the general idea was: shimano levers and hayes levers are not compatiable due to shimano using mineral oil and hayes using dot fluid. the dot fluid will eat out the seals in the shimano levers. your best bet will be to replace the whole system with a twin piston setup which will set you back about $120 to $130 rrp per end (will pm you better prices later) for a twin piston setup from brands like shimano or tektro which will give you better braking.

not a big fan of hayes sole brakes, cause they are only a sinlge piston caliper. but i will find out for you and let you know shortly

probably won't fit. if you want i can see what i can find to suit

well if you don't do track days or go to the drags very often, and drive reasonably sensibly on the street then you should get decent engine life using the stock injectors. it is only going to be at high rpm at 100% throttle where the injectors are going to be running out of capacity. so even boosting it round the streets, as long as you aren't taking it to redline every gear change it should be fine. at the end of the day, as long as the injectors aren't maxing out it will be like any other injectors. your engine will only go boom if it isn't getting enough fuel. if the stock injectors start to make it run lean because they are getting blocked, then if you had 1000cc injectors in there and they started to get blocked then either way there isn't going to be enough fuel going into the engine. the ecu tells the injector how long to fire for. if it isn't flowing as much as the ecu thinks it is (no matter what size injector you have) it is going to run lean. just get your injectors properly cleaned so you know they are going to work at their best. good luck. i'm all for people that like to push the limits and be different.

does it have a light mounted in it? doesn't look like it in the picture. and no offence but there is no such thing as a m-spec r33. that is a r34 gtr type. the r32/r33 was type m. and the wing is based off a series 2 wing, but bigger.

could the mods put in a filter like they have for swearing so that anytime this link is posted it gets changed to something else?

you could just run a hotter heat range plug and have the same gain in performance. if you are getting that much quicker ignition you are going to get higher EGT's. if you have an aftermarket ecu and have a good tune, i would guess that these plugs would initiate pinging if you were to change to them.

i did have that mentioned in my post but then changed it and forgot to put it back in hard to find one that doesn't have gearbox/drivetrain issues, or isn't far off having gearbox issues. most have generally had a hard life. might be the biggest turbo, but is only bush bearing. but they do have quad throttle bodies. they are just a chunkier redtop motor (have a few internal upgrades). as for more room in the back, the 180sx actually has more room in the back/boot. i don't mind the look.

unless you are talking gtr's then the 33 is the slowest. but in the gts-t's the 32 is the slowest of the lot by nearly half a second over the 1/4 mile, if i remember correctly. and the s13's (sr20 powered) are almost identical to the r33. and i was able to beat a mates stock rb20 powered cefiro at willowbank by over half a second in a v6 magna (he ran a 15.4 and i ran 14.8) and my mates r32 i drove had a pfc, bigger turbo and injectors, aftermarket plenum, and made 6hp more than my stock turbo'd, stock ecu r33, except i had full boost by about 2800rpm and he didn't have it until closer to 6000rpm (stupidly big turbo). then they put a smaller turbo on and made a bit less peak power but gained a heap of mid power because he was getting full boost by about 4000rpm. the r32 may feel faster due to the power delivery though. the r33 basically has the power there all the time so it doesn't feel as quick. i know my 180sx felt much quicker than the 33, despite the fact that it was about 100hp down on power, but because boost came in higher in the rev range you got a bit more of a hit, where as the 33 was pretty much on boost whenever you put your foot down so you weren't really off boost. but then my SSS pulsar (natro sr20) felt, and was, much quicker than the 180 out of slower corners when the 180 wasn't on boost. in fact the missus was driving the pulsar and i was following in the 180 going from her place to mine and out of certain intersections where it was low rpm second gear corners she would pull away 20 or 30m before i came on boost and caught up again, and she wasn't reving up that high before changing gears.

r32 is slower than both silvia (of any series) and r33. s13 is about as fast as a r33 (in stock form). r32 gts-t = 157kw, 265nm 1320kg r33 gts-t = 184kw, 295nm, 1370kg s13 = 151kw, 274nm, 1150kg s14 = 162kw, 274nm, 1220kg the r32 makes more power than the s13 by 6w, but 9nm less torque, and weigh 170kg more. r33 weighs 50kg more than the r32 but makes an extra 27kw more power and has a better power to weight ratio. r33's are generally cheaper than r32's (well there is plenty of good cheap r33's around but not many r32's) and they have more power and are faster. i have owned both a r33 and a sr20 powered 180sx, and driven a ca powered 180sx and a r32. r32 was least favourite of the lot. r33 and s13 were on par. i like different things about the different cars. for an everyday driver though i think the r33 is better. more low down power and slightly better ride (comfort wise). s13 has the advantage that you can run 15psi all day everyday and the turbo won't blow up like a skyline turbo that is pushed to it's limit. and you can easilly upgrade to a ball bearing s15 unit cheaply as well.

pretty sure my 33 didn't have them. and i know that most of the cars i have owned haven't had them.

price drop on the wheels. r33 wheels down to $150 and magna wheels down to $200

can i ask why it has a mirage front bar? has it been in an accident?