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One thing that doesn't make sense is if I lean out the mixture's I should effectively have more pinging?? but this doesn't seem to be the case?? I'm buggered why. The guys from OWS Oils who gave this to me, want to meet me down at ICE, and stick the car on the dyno to see the results... I'm having nightmares already, I can hear Nigel and Gerald saying.. "Why'd you even bother" It should be interesting unless they convince me otherwise before then.

This afternoon when picking up my car, I was asked to try a product called Broquet Fuel Catalyst, or Fuel Booster. I have heard of these things before, and the rep wanted me to try it with no obligations to buy, and see how it goes??? This little gismo steel rod looking thing sits just after the fuel filter. Apparantley the fuel runs through this steel rod which has little magic balls in it, and they charge or do something to the fuel which allows it to simulate an Octone boost, reduces exhaust temps by half, reduces fuel consumption, reduces knocking and allows you to advance timing safely. I'd heard of these before, and was a little suspicious... I mean all this sounded like the similar effect a water injection kit has..but thought so long as it does no harm I'll try it. First thing I noticed in my GTR, when I watch my knock levels on the Power HC they seem to have dropped considerably, under hard accelleration and high boost I would max hit around 45, but I saw nothing over 35. OK so I'm thinking, luck maybe. Now I haven't driven the GTR for nearly a month, since getting the new gearbox overhaul & Ogura Twin Plate/Flywheel until I picked it up today. But I did sort of notice boost came on a little earlier than normal?? spooling started at less than 3800rpm? I thought this could be attribute to the lightened flywheel? This boost master thingo, is also supposed to cut fuel consumption "but that's not my reason for trying it?? doh", allows you to advance timing some more etc etc? I spoke to a mate tonight about it, and he said don't bother, telling me it leans out the mixtures, that's why you save fuel, and also said if I noticed some loss in power? which I replied "yes" I did.. the car's power felt very linear and even, not the standard ooooooh nooo here we goooooo! So if anyone has some furthe input I'd appreciate it. Please.. no flaming and preferabbly some educated opinions. Thanks fella's

INASNT, sorry about the delay in getting back to you... I got a call this avo about a Black 1999 M3 with beige leath and 30'k.. but the asking price is low to mid 50's?? so I'm not sure if that what you want to spend or not??. anyhow see how you go.

Can anyone confirm that this car really has an N1 Block & HKS 2.8 Stroker Kit? Cause I have heard otherwise, and that it may have wiseco 87.5 forgies, tomei Poncams ~260's with a 9.1lft but is nowhere near 2.8ltr?? And the add says it does have a HKS 2.8 kit & N1 Block? And I've also heard the car has had troubles with blowing turbo gaskets.. why would this happen?

PM R31Nismoid he gets em real cheap.

You sure that's dean's old car?... I thought it was the car as seen on SPEED mag some time ago, where the guys spent a fotune, and even had some Japs fly over to tune the ECU... But don't think it had a Power FC??? Anyhow, I think there's something dodgy about it, coz I'm sure I seen it advertised for 110K+ in Unique.. Otherwise I'd buy it... and why not, I reckon we should all buy one at that price

Just made me think of something?? Those Apexi~[jap brand] exhaust thingo's that you pull a lever from the inside of the car and they either keep the car quiet, or pull the lever and it goes back to loud again, have an effect that can stop the car from revving. Eg: If the flange is closed 3/4 of the way, the car will be quiet, but will be hard to rev & not rev past a certain rpm. I'd say it could also be an "exhaust" related issue. May check to see if you have one of these units, or a block somewhere.

Do you know if any mods were done to the car? Have you got pics of the engine?

dairyboy, It's really a hard call to determin your problem over the net. Ultimately, your best bet is to take it to a workshop. I'm thinking it could be so many things: 1. You have a After Market ECU, and they've pulled out all the mods returning it to stock, before delivering it to you? 2. They stuck the original ECU back in, and left some after market mods? 3. Idiling, could be an injector issue? 4. Cranking, cold be a battery issue, have you checked the battery? and what size is it? After I did my mods to my GTR, the thing was very hard to start & idling was sometimes an issue.. Found out I had a 280cc battery that was good for a suzuki swift, upgraded it to a 450cc no problems. Idiling, was a tune issue related to my 700cc injectors. 5. Boost past 5000??? Like cameron said - "What happens when you hit 5000rpm?"

mick, [i could be mistaken?] but to run Step 2 Cams, I think there's alot more involved and may require head work for clearances etc etc... I'm not sure exactly what your after & what you plan on doing, however I dd go down this path myself for my internally stock GTR, and I found that generally, everyone seems to go for the Tomei 256's with a 9.1 lift on either side or a 256 & 260~.. Anything bigger and I think you start to loose alot of bottom end. Someone please confirm???

Haro, why did Adam try selling these to me for $1200.00 ?? Make'n me look bad, when I tried to help out Snowman????? ooooh Not happy Jan!!!!

Bells ringing.... Is this "gary" guy the bloke who had a Black R34, a White R34 and I think he also had a Silver R33 GTR's?? I stand to be corrected, but when I was interested in the Black R34 GTR, I was told not to touch it because the guy selling it was on the dodgy side... But then again aren't most if not all import dealers

Hi Jack, Agreed! I think NRB has 2530's aswell?? Should be good to have them all on the same dyno same time, just need to hassle the boys at ICE. I spoke to Nige about it, but he said it wasn't necessary as seeing I did my last dyno tune on his dyno when we pulled back some timing, and he had both our runs on file. It was just a matter of pulling them up?? I'd still want to organise something. It'd good to have Merli ther aswell, however I think by the time he finishes his car (Unfair Advantage - Motor Mods ), he'll be struggling to pay his fuel cost down to Melbourne so we might have to fork out some $$$.

Emre is correct, "he should know :D" SAU Member HI RISK got 11.53 with stock turbos, see this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...read.php?t=1335

Used to have a Mini Clubman GT 1972, driving on the freeway @100km/h taking a swooping bend, and realise I have no steering .... luck was on my side, I had just enough steering to get me through the bend, and my mechanic was virtually a straight run with no turns about 10k's away.

Hi SK, I guess so.. unless I've made a boo boo?? I used Jacks dyno from this thread and my dyno from my thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...347&postcount=2 EDIT: If I can also add, My first dyno run was done in Shootout, Jack's was NOT in Shootout. And some say Shootout adds around 10%~. I'll try to get copies of both our runs which were done on the same dyno.

OK.. I tried to compare my first dyno run "which needs to be said, was done in shootout, and on a different dyno as ICE hadn't got there's yet".. & Jack's dyno which was done on ICE's which was not in shootout. But for the time being I thought it would of interest. The thing I noticed most is the trust makes quite some power from 140-170km/h, and keeps on going, where the HKS just flattens out from 140 onwards. .................TRUST......HKS GT2530 KMH...........KW...........KW 80.............50.............60 95.............80.............90 110...........113...........140 125...........160...........220 140...........240...........280 155...........307...........298 170...........320...........319 185...........324...........320 195...........324...........321

Jack, I think ph1 has spent some big$$ on his motor , forgies, rods, etc etc.. and running big boost shouldn't be a problem for him... like he said, your turbo's would more likely be a better set for his car as his 8cm trust are running out of puff top end. Unlike our set-ups, we're still running stock internals, limiting our option for more reliable power. I also think the boys have tuned your car to be on the very safe side. Like you, I am happy but want that litle more now. After a chat with Emre, he got around 400rwkw with the GT2530's on stock internals, but obviously running that sort of power continually, something has to give. Based on Emre, I think we can still get alot more power out of the cars, but how far before something give's. Ultimately my next option would be motor work, but that's unlikely at this stage.

I know where your coming from! Exactly the same thing happened at our Victorian SAU Go Karting night in Victoria the other week. Very dissapointing... I think some heads should roll

Have you been drinking again Kama??...Where was this??

Andrew, Just got of the phone with a mate who's just shipped in a sh!tload of parts. He doesn't have a 6speed, but has around 10GTR 5speed boxes @$1200, which we think should bolt on directly? Did you speak to ICE, or Dean?? I'm wondering if the parts from the GTR 5 Speed boxes fit the Getrag boxes, maybe you could do a swap. Ultimately I think Leewah has your answer in a reply to one of my question in another thread all about gearboxes.. he recommended speaking to Frank Modena of Modena Engineering in Melbourne.

Hi Zed, Are you going to do a group deal with the Series 3 GTR Lips? Please.

Hitting with a hammer is my last resort.. but thanks anyway Danny. The issue isn't so much a boost controll issue, like I said, it holds boost perfectly. It's more me being fussy. The boost pressure reading is set to 19psi, which is around 1.3bar. But the actual boost setting is set at 1.1bar. By controlling the MODE setting of "50-150" you can manually adjust the boost if it goes over your boost setting, in my case it does. Unfortunatley I have hit the limit being "150". Reading the manual last night, I think it could be a leak in vaccum hose, or the filter No. 4 & 6... Not sure. INASNT, you may need to reset it & do the automatic boost tune runs again.

have you tried rpm performance in South Australia? I know he has a set of bolt on GT25's

Hi all, I've got the HKS EVC 4 (aka 3), and it holds boost perfectly.. the only problem, is if I want to run 1.2bar, I would set it to ~1.05Bar. We played around with that setting that's lets you adjust the boost thingy between 50-150 but at the moment it's set to the maximum 150 and can't pull it back anymore. I'm wondering if there's anything else I could try?