cooks44

If you can wait that little bit, Nengun's got them cheap at the moment... /me saving $$$...

Sorry, am sitting here at work rambling cos' it's too hot to work! Now, I'm not an expert - I've just done it a few times. It's a bandpass box - I wanted all the sound in the cabin. Apart from having the box on the back seat (which is where it is now) doing this was the best way for me. My amp is 6 channel, works out to about 71W RMS by 4, and 110W RMS by 2 (which when bridged works out to around 205-210W RMS for the sub.) It's not easy at all to do this kind of installation without a fair woodworking knowledge. You end up building things that don't fit when you're working to such a small area. Happy to scan the drawings I've made - pretty crappy (may as well be drawn on a napkin) but gives you an idea. Best way I found to measure is to get some wood offcuts, say around 14" x 4" off a plank. You can put one down on the floor and one against the back so you can see where things are uneven and where you have to allow for this. Then you can hold another plank under the parcel shelf to give you some much better points to measure from/to. Don't forget to allow for the width of the wood and the thickness of any carpet you're adding. Perhaps it would help you if you started where I'm now at, changing the battery/electricals mounting and putting some wood in there... I'm turning the battery around 90° and shifting it and the relay/fuse/whatever box as far left and back as I can. By taking out the original metal bracket and putting two MDF panels in there (you'll see there's an angle in halfway across where the floor starts bending down) you'll have much more room for your box and you'll have the main starting points for measuring and fixing to. Now, before I get flamed a few things: - Don't forget your battery contains lots of acid! I'm planning on covering everything in heaps of lacquer, putting the battery in one of those battery boxes, and maybe making the base where the battery sits out of AC cement sheeting. - Don't forget you car is primarily a car, and mechanics, etc will need to get in there at some stage. Your fuel pump, etc are all accessed through this area. As I said, I'll scan these drawing to give you an idea of what I'm doing. Hope it helps! Cooks44.

Yup, about 27L. This is Infinity's recommended enclosure size for a bandpass box with this sub. (Was going to provide a link, unfortunately their site is a little screwed.) Two door R33 coupe, same as the majority. I had two goals: leave as much boot space as possible, and no noise/vibration in the boot. This was the only choice left! I was initially opting for an old Cerwin-Vega subwoofer I had around, but the box design was horrendous as it required around 1.8ft³ for its optimum box. I then saw the specs for this Kappa Perfect sub and its tiny box (sealed box is only 0.6ft³!) and figured it is the one. They're fair subs, primarily designed for "quality not quantity" in their bass reproduction. These are their high-end subs, rated 1,400W Max or 350W RMS. Of course putting it in a sealed box (the back part of the bandpass box is literally just a sealed enclosure) causes it to lose half its dynamic level compared to a ported box, I prefer sealed for the control it gives the woofer, providing nice, clear bass notes. For the amp I got a big 6 channel, I don't like the idea of having one power power supply on the circuit board for all those channels but don't really have much room to play with (Would really prefer two amps!). At least we all have very short cable runs from the battery! Might add a cap later just to be on the safe side. I'm replacing the carpet-covered, plastic panel that sits in front of the battery with plyboard on hinges, can then fold it down and get to the batteries still. The amp itself will be in a box-like structure, mounted to the back of this board. A cutout in the plywood lets the centre of the amp protrude through, whilst leaving the heatsink fins behind. These are force-fed air from the cabin, with the idea that on a hot day I let the 60°C air out of the cabin and might even turn on the A/C, but don't always open the boot. Stacker is to be mounted in this board too, majority behind with only the face in front for access. Running out of room for the stacker, so I'll see how I go once everything else is in. Might have to scan my drawings for you to have a look at, I'm having enough trouble explaining what the design is to my chippy mate who's helping me build it without showing him! Give you a better idea. Check your PM for buying info on the sub. Cooks44.

Or radar detectors, correct. In my experience though, the coppers will always use this excuse to do a search of your car.... "You're young and you drive an expensive car - you must be a drug dealer." Hasn't happened in my R33 though, only in my VL.

Don't be too worried about being pulled over by the cops. Yes, you're in the high risk category (aren't we all?), but it's not too bad. Think of it as being scored when you drive past a cop car... Basically: - Good looking wheels & tyres - 1 point. - Lowered suspension - 1 point. - Body kit/extreme bars/extreme wing - 1 point. - Loud - 1 point. - Hint of blow off valve (noise) - 1 point. - Rice stickers - 1 point. - Gauges, etc - 1 point. - P-Plater - 1 point. - Reckless driving - 2 points. - Speeding - 2 points. By the end of all this, if you score highly yup you're gonna get in trouble... if not, they'll usually leave you alone. In two years of driving my R33, I haven't been pulled over once, except when their speed cameras indicate my presence. I live in Dandenong, so I know how bad the cops can be! My car is dead stock though, even down to the rims (which is extremely depressing - P1 Racings, here I come!). I'm planning on leaving it as stock looking as possible, save the big hole in the front for an intercooler. I want this covered in black mesh so it's not too noticable though. So think about your car - if it looks like any other standard car you'll be fine. If it looks like every other ricer import you will be getting some high scores there!

I'm putting mine in there now, whole design leaves me with practically as much space as you have originally. I'm putting a bandpass box in (all sound comes out port), with this port coming through one of the original parcel shelf speaker holes. Sub is an 10" Infinity Kappa Perfect. Factory recommendation is for a 0.6ft³ sealed box, or 0.95ft³ bandpass box which fits perfectly in this space! I don't believe the HCU has a sensor in it therefore it can be moved (well, it is in mine!) There is a sensor mounted under the edge of the parcel shelf (where my speakers now are) - this needs to be in the same orientation as it was installed. I'm putting some plyboard up where the back cover (battery cover) would usually be, this will have my amp and stacker inset, whilst being on hinges so I can still get to the batteries behind. It's a big job though, being done in about four steps. Up to step three now! Will have to post pics when it's finally finished!

Well, I've installed some of Hella's Micro fog lights on to my car. Not really for fog, I find my main beam penetrates fog quite well when they're adjusted right. No, like someone mentioned in a post above they're roo/wombat lights. I've dodged about 5 roos in my R33 at 100km/h so far (thank god for Skyline handling - I'd be dead otherwise!), it would have been nice at the time if I had the vision to know that they're ahead. They're usually switched in with my high beams so a quick flick and they're off when a car comes. I don't think I've ever turned them on in a residential area, save to adjust them for the first time. Oh, and count me in the "Excel-rear-fog-light-meets-baseball-bat-club".... bloody things!

Trying it at the moment (didn't want to rewire my car out the front of work - changing vac hoses around is much easier!) Mine is totally stock, save for a cat-back zorst and K&N panel. I figured if the solenoid is just opening at 4500rpm, bypassing the solenoid but connecting the vac hoses should have the same effect.... Not quite. There must be some kind of restriction in the solenoid itself that prevents boost spikes. Mine is definately on high boost all the time now, but not happily. I'm only going by the stock gauge, but by my conversion calcs the boost spikes can easily reach stock turbo destruction pressure (ie. 12+ psi). If I gently(ish) give it more power it's pretty happy, and bloody fast! If I don't watch it and get a boost spike, the stock BOV goes off and dumps the boost pressure whilst the ECU is still delivering heaps of fuel = big backfire. Still playing with it that way (cos' it's fun!) but not planning to leave it like that, I would end up destroying something and you also miss out on your big launches cos' you have to bring the boost on slowly. Will put the switch in on the w/end most likely, so I'll check in and let you guys know the difference. One question, does anyone know how long the solenoid will last? The solenoid would normally only be on for a few seconds (if you're revving the engine through it's range past 4500 to 7000 before gear change) to maybe minutes (track work or maybe fast outback twisties where you're keeping the revs up and the car on boost). I'm worried if I took my car on a long (5+ hr) journey that the solenoid could burn out from being constantly on. Any comments? I've been thinking about including the idle switch in the circuit, to turn the solenoid off when sitting at traffic lights, etc.

Always up for some good twisties so I'd love to know the details if poss... Thanks!

It's pretty easy to do with a DPDT switch and a relay or two... Any automatic antenna can be converted to semi-automatic (ie. adjustable) Finished work for the day through so can't get the schematic... will find it and post it tomoz.

We're hoping to do an engine swap from the water-cooled to one of the bigger bikes... Should make it a little more fun!

Yeah, we got some in a container at work for fun... The little water-cooled one is definately a rocket, bloody noisy though - the clutch is set for 8500rpm, runs to around 13000rpm..... They definately achieve 90km/h though, even with 100kgs on it! But yeah, I would make sure anything you get has had the bearings and fasteners changed for AU spec stuff. One bike shot a front bearing within 30 minutes. The rest are in various states of destruction though. Personally I was going to get the mini trail bike, I'm 6'4", although I had a go on the little watercooled one I don't think I was very aerodynamic with knees around my ears!

R33 GTS-T 25 Uzi (oops, bloody Melb. traffic) Ozi IT Manager (full time), Uni student (full time)

I managed to find a good special at Repco or Burson (or somewhere...) It's a little green Bosch high-pressure cleaner, was around $120 on special. Definately worth it, had it a year and it hasn't missed a beat. Comes with adjustable needle to fan nozzle (needle definately being too much for paint - lots of pressure there!), rotating needle nozzle (no need to scrub rims anymore, it spins at a couple thousand revs and does a wonderful job - great for oil on concrete too) and soap dispenser spray. All are good-quality composite plastics, they have taken a fair few knocks and are still fine. Dispenser could be better, I think the bottle would decompose with UV rays if left outside for too long. Only con would be having to run all the air bubbles through it before turning it on - it sits there burning itself out if it gets stuck on an air bubble. I just wet down my car without the power on to start with and it's usually fine. http://ukptocs.bosch-pt.com/boptocs-uk/Pro...at_id=9707&RT=M Be worth looking into these if you can find the distributor. Cooks44.

One thing I found, you can polish/buff them and they come up great but don't last long (the yellowness comes back within a week or two). Best thing I've found to keep them looking good is Plexus (thanks Meshmesh!), use this after buffing and it keeps them looking great.

Don't worry, when next year's Commonwhore comes out they'll have to change the law or it'll kinda be illegal from factory with the carbon fibre bonnet they're planning for some models.....

See thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=49297, PM me if you have any troubles. Cooks44.

If you only want to remove the antenna mast & rope, not the full assembly (assuming it is an electric antenna: Remove the top silver nut thingy - this secures both the antenna to the body of the car and the antenna mast & rope inside the antenna assembly. Get someone else (or your stereo remote control) and turn your radio on. Antenna goes up. Hold the top of the antenna mast to prevent it going back in and turn the radio off. The clutch inside the antenna assembly will slip as it tries to retract the antenna. Turn the radio on again and it should push the antenna mast out the rest of the way followed by the nylon rope. If you cannot pull the rope out of the assembly you may still need to do the radio on->radio off cycle again to make it further release the rope. A few points: 1. The "rope" (just a length of flexible nylon rod) should have teeth down one side of it that engage in the clutch mechanism. If you notice that there are no teeth, the mast is most likely non-replaceable. The assembly may have been replaced at some stage for a non-genuine one as every Nissan antenna I've seen is of the replaceable type. 2. MAKE SURE YOU TAKE NOTE OF WHICH WAY THE TEETH FACE! This can be the cause of much anguish... 3. There should be a copper or metal collar that slips onto the mast before you reinsert it. Make sure the old one comes out with the mast, or fish it out of the assembly before you put the new one in. This a) holds the antenna mast tight in the assembly and B) is the only contact for the signal path so ensure it is there/undamaged/clean to have a trouble-free antenna! Reinserting is the exact opposite of the above procedure, line up the teeth in the direction you saw them come out, push the rope into the assembly as far as you can, turn the radio on, Watch your fingers! You may need to cycle the radio on and off a few more times whilst preventing it from coming out - it does take a few goes to get the clutch into the right spot so it goes up and down properly. Enjoy! A few final points: 1. Manufacturers love making money on broken antennas. The prices OEMs charge are sky high! You should be able to get an aftermarket one at a good parts/car audio store. 2. All antennas require a good ground plane. Your radio antenna will be expecting a good ground through the coax shield (this should be a good ground to your radio anyway), through a ground strap provided on the assembly and/or through the metal assembly of the antenna itself. It's this last one you've got to watch especially on non-automatics - some manufacturers don't include a ground strap, and rely on the metal antenna assembly cleanly contacting the underside of the vehicle body where the antenna hole is cut. After many years this gets dirty and rusty, and people wonder why their reception is awful. So think about this when replacing your antenna and you should have trouble-free reception for years to come.

IT Manager for medium Importer/Distributor in Moorabbin... Sound Engineer... Mechanic (bloody clutch...) Currently undertaking a Master of IT/CCNP at CSU.

I think the only reason this is ever done is to take one connection away from the hydrogen creating battery... (ie. When you disconnect the negative that's on the frame or engine hoist hook first as you're meant to, the spark that is created is a fair distance away from the battery.) This way, if there was enough hydrogen around the battery to ignite, there's less chance of setting it off. Not really a problem on R33s, although make sure you jump start under the bonnet of an R33 - the enclosed boot around the battery bay would definately increase the likelyhood of hydrogen being around in there!

Dunno about Skylines (mine hasn't missed a beat) but in other Nissan's I've got this problem was caused by a faulty "Intermittant Wiper Amplifier", as the manual called it. Normal and high still worked fine, but Intermittant would sometimes work, sometimes leave the wipers in the middle of the screen or sometimes not move. Putting in a 2nd hand amplifier thingy fixed it. They must have something similar for the Skylines...

Keyboards/Piano and tenor saxophone. Haven't been playing for a while (too busy at work) but still jump on 'em to play every now and then. Ever tried fitting two keyboards, PA system, mixer and a drum kit in a R33??? It's bloody hard! (But possible )

Rod Hatfield (Castlemaine Rod Shop) made a complete titanium-alloy Chev V8 block, mainly cos' the Yanks said it couldn't be done... They use them in light aircraft now that the big-block Chev is registered for flight use. There was a pic of him on his website holding up the block with one hand.... (Couldn't see anyone doing that with the original Chev block!!!)

Remember trying it once in my friend's old commondoor... Made a 5% nitromethane/95% leaded mix and fed it into the thing. (He used to fly pro R/C airplanes and had plenty of the stuff, just had to make sure it hadn't turned purple!) Nothing was retuned or anything, just having some fun. It did give a noticable seat-of-the-pants kick, not much I'd say it felt like 5-10kw? He's done it a few times (say 5) and the engine's still running 5 years later. We never wanted to run it above 5% mix though, he knew the engine wouldn't want too much more! Now if you remapped your ECU for it, it'd be quite interesting!