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Everything posted by Harey
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Looks good. Couple of comments: - will you run E85 at any stage? if so, you will need at least 1000cc injectors. If you run E85 I would go 9:1 CR with the higher octane fuel. Even with 98 I wouldnt go any less than 8.5 as Simon said.
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Why Does Nistune Timing Map Skip 2,800Rpm
Harey replied to Harey's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Thanks Trent, I was just curious. Definitely not changing anything till I run it by you. Only thing I have been considering is dropping the timing increase around 3200rpm. My tyres could hold the boost hit on 98 but the fact on E85 (with the extra 6 degrees of timing at 3200rpm) builds an extra 3 psi and has a torque peak and then drops off and then increases again. I was thinking if timing, therefore boost and torque drops back to similar numbers as on 98 fuel then it would be a smoother torque increase. This would provide a better chance of my tyres holding on. -
Rb25 Turbo Upgrade, All Dyno Results
Harey replied to Nacho Vidal's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
R34 GT-T RB25DET Neo JJR 1 piece dump pipe, Venom 5" body cat, 3" inlet, 3.5" outlet, 3.5" catback straight through Apexi Pod Filter with 3" metal intake Z32 AFM, Nistune ECU, 800cc Deatschwerk injectors ARC Returnflow Intercooler Hypergear ATR43-SS1 244rwkw on 98, and 279rwkw on Caltex E-Flex E85! Super responsive! -
Finally joined the E85 club! RB25 Neo with super responsive turbo making 242rwkw on 98 and 279rwkw on E85! Very happy Havent tried cold start yet but my idle is smoother than on 98! Thanks Trent from Status Tuning and Tao from Hypergear turbos!
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Have some very positive E85 results with the SS1!! Very happy, super responsive and 279rwkw up top!! Cant wait to see some SS2 + E85 results too. Thanks Trent from Status Tuning and Tao from Hypergear turbos!
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Read through the last few pages, Tao has just finished a turbo exactly for this purpose! The other option is the SS1, a tad larger so you would only need ~15psi and it will be nicer on temps. But the other 2530 comparitive turbo will have better response but the boost drops off quite a bit. It depends on your preference.
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Why Does Nistune Timing Map Skip 2,800Rpm
Harey replied to Harey's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Aha thanks for the info!! Yes you are correct, the timing map has an extra cell at 6800 whereas the fuel map only goes up to 6400. -
Hi All, I have a Type 4 nistune on my ER34 GTT. I am wondering why on the timing map the rpm scale skips 2,800rpm? It goes straight from 2000, 2400, 3200, 3600. But the fuel map doesnt, it goes 2000, 2400, 2800, 3200, 3600 as you would expect. Second question what does say 2000rpm mean. Is it from that value up to the next value such as 2000-2399rpm? or is it centred around 2000rpm so 1800-2200rpm? Cant find that info in any of the nistune documents. Any help much appreciated!
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Its in an old VL remember!! The emission standards are very leanient due to the age of the car. I think with a newer type factory cat, plus a newer engine (RB25) it will be a walk in the park.
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I understand you now, drive around with a decat pipe, if you get pulled over and cop a defect then put a factory cat back in when you go in for an inspection. What about this scenario: Car accident where the car is undriveable and the insurance people come and do an inspection of the car. They could argue that your car is not roadworthy and therefore not covered by insurance.
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Why run the risk of a fine for no cat?? To save $200 and 2-3kw? Yes I also have said multiple times in this thread to run a standard cat to pass the emissions test. I was suggesting changing to a hiflow 100 cell cat after the emissions test.
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+1 The point is to avoid a $10k fine if you get caught without a cat at all. Compared to a $200 outlay of a 100cell hiflow cat that will provide almost no restriction. You cannot get a fine for having a cat that probably wont meet emissions standards (100 cell cat). It all depends on the impact of you failing. If it costs nothing and you can go again later sure try the hiflow cat but if it costs you or you failing causes you to loose rego then you should definitely fit a 300 cell cat and then change afterwards.
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I believe it would be the ADR37/00 emissions test. Might be different in WA though. Shouldnt be too hard when your using a later model engine (more strict emissions limits).
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The second link is not a 5" body, I had one. It is either 4 or 4.5". Plus it is a 200 cell cat. I lost 8-10rwkw on the dyno when dropping it. That sounds a bit high to me, yes I know you will loose some power with a cat. I had my cat stolen so bought a 5" body 100 cell venom cat for $230ish (without flanges as he didnt have them ready for an R34 yet). Why the hell would you pay $400 for a 200 cell 4.5" body cat?? Sure comparing the 4.5" to the 5" 100 cell venom cats you will prob be fine with the 4.5" but if there is room for it and its only $20 difference why not?? Especially if you up the power later on.
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WTF you run the boost hose via the interior of the car????? If they are switched on its pretty much impossible to hide, they just have to trace the hose from the actuator. I tried fastening it to the underside of a pipe so you couldnt see it. Worked fine but I think the cop you had would have found it. As said above get a stronger actuator.
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I personally bought the 5" body one, fits fine on my R34. Why not have more flow it was only an extra $20 or so. Just as long as there is room.
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I would not run a hiflow metal cat for an emissions test. What is the penalty for failing? If its not much then yeah fine. In VIC an emissions test is ~$2k and you loose the $$ if you fail. In that scenario I would be bolting up a factory cat in the best condition possible. When I was getting a turbo commodore legal I ran a standard cat in the standard location and an extra one hidden in the dump pipe haha. Most hiflow metal cats do not have to meet any emission standards especially not 100 cell cats. There primary focus is to flow well and reduce the emissions (mostly just to satisfy the legality of having a cat when inspected). To be honest its a bit of a loophole, I wouldnt be surprised if one day they force us to use the standard catalytic converter that came with the car. Whereas factory cats have to meet all the emission standards.
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I didnt necessarily fiddle with the tune itself. I just meant keep giving it a hard time and watch the knock number. If you do get some knock then take note of the cells that have been used. Then you can tell your tuner this. Otherwise, when the tuner has the car he might not get to the same cells again and you will be in the same place.
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The 230kw one is referred to as the ATR43G1. The other one is the SS1 PU prototype, which has also been referred to as the SS1.5. I prefer the SS1.5 as its easier to say and type Correct me if I am wrong Tao
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Some good points made there sucram, however it sounds like it is intermittent and doesnt happen everytime on the one tank of fuel or temperature etc. To me the experience described by Sarge would be more likely that some of the tuning cells are not set correctly and it is only when it hits these cells that knock is experienced. Sarge you seem to have glossed over PaulR33's update?? That is the first place I would be investigating.
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Have a look at the boost curves, the only turbo to hold a flat 22psi would be the SS2 or the ATR43G3 or larger. You can see Tao is trying to run 25psi on the SS1 PU Prototype but it drops down to under 20psi by redline anyway.
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Just noticed the SS1 PU Prototype goes from 265-530Nm of Torque from 3200-3800rpm!! That must be a serious hit but would be hard to get traction. Just noticed it hit 25psi! The SS2 definitely looses a few rpm of response to this SS1.5 but the SS2 holds boost steady high in the rev range whereas this SS1.5 drops off boost. The SS2 was not run as hard as this and made ~315rwkw with the same intercooler and no overheating issues. Keen to see some more SS2 results. Between the G1, SS1, SS1.5, SS2 you pretty much have the whole bolt on range covered. Well done!
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Better Flowing Intercooler For Rb25 In R32
Harey replied to Russman's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I had some bungs welded to inlet and outlet pipes from the cooler. That way you can measure the pressure difference and see. -
Bit confused why you would even compare the G1 turbo to the SS1.5?? The G1 is designed to max out at 230rwkw so you can use the factory injectors and afm. The G1 will not make 250-260rwkw. On the other hand the SS1.5 is designed to make 280rwkw with larger injectors and a Z32 afm etc. I am sure the SS1.5 does feel much stronger
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So run an SS1 at ~14psi with 3-400rpm worse response, sounds like a great option... I would much rather run a smaller turbo at ~18psi to make the same peak power but with better response.