Harey

Yup thats why when everyone says why dont you run a standard airbox I say its too hard! I would love to try it back to back with the pod to see if any power is lost. If not much I would use the airbox as the pod cant make quite a bit of noise especially when you have a very responsive turbo that spools very frequently.

Thumbs down to the performance wise intake pipe, my pod wouldnt even sit in the engine bay using it with an R34 GTT?? The fittings for the bov return and other pcv breather are in the wrong locations. There is no way it will ever fit up to an airbox. I made my own using a 90 degree bend and a pod. I know 1 person that has a good 3" metal intake going to the standard airbox but its not an easy job as you have to get it in the perfect spot on the perfect angle.

Thanks Ash this is exactly what I am looking for at the moment. I still have the standard headunit and I think I have finally cracked it also. I have found the Pioneer headunit I want. What would be the next step down in speakers from your $200 and $170 options James? Something around the $150 and $100 range and preferably not alpine as none of the online stores have em.

I think Externally Gated is better than Internally Gated in all performance scenarios. The reason people dont it is cost, more complex and legal issues. Yeah I think the 10cm housing is the way to go and Simon's recommendation for you still stands. Simon is referring to people who have specifically asked about kando bolt on options for an rb25 with standard manifold.

Do you mean RB34 kit from spool?

That sounds like an awesome setup! 25/30 with 56T 3076 with T4 1.06 Twin Scroll housing, awesome reponse and great power. Keen to see your final result and dyno sheet.

My dyno sheet looked like that when my intake pipe was sucking shut or even later just not providing enough flow. Builds nice up until a certain point and just a flat line after that. To me that says something is restricting airflow once it reaches that amount of airflow. I would be surprised if it was the turbo itself because that would be a very strange turbo design to achieve a graph like that. Not to mention the other Hypergear turbos of the same variety do not look like that at all.

Mostly on the highway? Surely not much giving it a hard time. For 50L of fuel thats 8.3L/100km thats like excel lancer territory lol

WTF 600km to a tank?!? The tanks are supposedly 65L but I have heard of people literally running out of fuel and getting stranded then only getting 59L in. So you are getting less than 10L/100km and thats if you run the tank completely dry. Does anyone else get this? Maybe I drive too hard lol Trent said he spent a lot of time making it efficient on fuel. Do you do mostly freeway driving?

I thought N1 turbos were different to -7 turbos?? The legend on your graph says N1 whereas your text says -7. I thought -7 were a lot more responsive then N1.

For a track car I would look at your goals slightly differently. Reliability under high temps and hard extended use should be a priority. Somethings to think about would be keeping the EGT (exhaust gas temps) down. I would choose the smaller GT3076 turbo with a larger exhaust housing so that you get response without really high EGTs like the 0.63 on the GT35. I think your mate should have dropped the boost pressure a bit down to say 15-16psi while running on a stock engine. Also, buy the best intercooler you can afford. I wouldnt disregard your current neo engine just yet. Drop the boost down to 15psi, make sure you tell your tuner to tune it for the track and make sure you have a really good intercooler. Are your overall engine temps under control? If not address that as well. Also, have you thought about using E85 fuel? Have a wider safety margin with ignition timing and can make more power with a smaller more responsive turbo. I am taking my R34 GTT to the SAU Nationals track day for the first time so this thinking is at the front of my mind! Any tips you have would be much appreciated!

What response and what boost?

How do you get caught with murder? Just make sure noone sees you and you dispose of the body and there is no evidence.

My point was that doing an engine conversion involves install hassles and in some states legality hassles. Restamping a block is a serious offence and to me not an option. If you are running 20+psi and you get caught you either attempt to pass emissions with the mods or you change back to stock parts. No biggy and your not in that much trouble. I didnt say the extra torque would not be nice, my point was that there are reasons for the rb22. If not your cup of tea thats fine. I for one have been through quite a few engine changeover issues with my brother and mates cars and its always a hassle even years later depending how you do it (in VIC anyway). Having the only mods completely internal to the engine and undetectable is pretty attractive to me.

Finish off your mods and get a tune asap! Too hard to diagnose from the info provided.

Bit different, then you have all the conversion issues and legal issues where as the RB22 bolts straight back in.

I see a 1.06 housing in your future

This is HUGE for a standard engine. Different thing if you are rebuilding an engine and have everything apart and can take your time getting all the surfaces perfectly flat. Standard Nissan Headgasket vote from me!

My KU36s when a bit worn were quite bad in the wet, certainly worse then a standard decent road tyre. The worst part is that it wasnt progressive and just broke loose on me a couple of times.

You blew your headgasket with 220rwhp and you want to upgrade the headgasket?? There are people making 500rwhp+ on the standard head gasket. As Elite said, focus your efforts and $$ on the reason why it blew.

Its called axle tramp. Do a search in the suspension section and you will have heaps of info about how to solve it.

What sort of tyres do you have on the back? Personally I wouldnt run KU36s on the front for a street car. How often are you cornering or braking at the limit of traction? I hope not too often. I just run all round type tyres on the front that will last. Then I just keep changing the rears with nice sticky rubber that only lasts 10-15,000km. I find that a good compromise for the street. Completely different for the track.

Yeah only comment is dont get the NS2's they are a very budget tyre. I dont have first experience with the other tyres but have heard good things on both the T1 Sport and the V12 Evo's so I think either will be great.

@ Tao's post #2385 on pg 120. Not a bad result there. Looks similar to a T67 dyno sheet, full boost around 4000rpm and nice flat torque from there to redline (just under 500Nm). Although wasnt this turbo a bit more responsive on the standard manifold? Geeze external wastegates have nice boost control, just perfectly flat. Very interested in the next stage.

If he paid someone to build his engine, why should he have to check clearances?? Isnt that why you pay someone to build an engine because you dont know how to? To me its either the requirements were not laid out well enough by the customer or the engine builder is at fault. If its possible a good idea is to go to a place that can build the engine and tune it, that way theres no passing the buck.