Harey
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Everything posted by Harey
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+1 Simpletool I find it hard to read Birds that you suggest to change gear just after peak torque but then say to ignore the next gear?? If there is not next gear what are you changing to?? If you only have one gear then you want to rev it out as high as possible. You should change at 8,300rpm not 8,000rpm as you would be right at the peak of the torque curve in the next gear. -
Hahaha I know it looks ghetto, but it works really well. Because there is no other noise its really easy to hear the leak.
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hahaha yup I was dreading taking off the front bar and driving across melbourne. I get enough cop attention already, without a front bar would be suicide!
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Once I have replaced that hose and clamps I will retest for leaks until I am happy.
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Ok, so got home last night and pulled out my boost leak tester. Found a big leak on the joiner on the outlet of the intercooler! It was quite late so I didnt get a chance to try and fix it. But I am very happy to have found it! Cant wait to get home to fix it.
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Just to clear it up that red plot was when the car was running right. I am happy with my dyno being 5rwkw of so less for most of the curve and a bit less at the top cause the boost isnt holding. When you look at the peak power figure mine is quite a bit behind Tao's but if you look at the curve its only right up top that there is much of a difference. I just want to get back to the red curve. Yup I am hoping its a leak somewhere too! I am not running any boost controller, not even the standard one. I am using the same actuator as what Tao used in those green and yellow plots. I will look into getting boost to hold flat later on, at the moment I am just focussed on finding this issue.
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Interesting plot of the same turbo on Tao's car (yellow and green) and my car (red): This is with the car running as it was previously making 279rwkw. Both yellow and red are running just off the actuator (no boost controller) but on Tao's car he is able to hold the boost flatter and get more boost up top.
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Why dont you get one of the large can actuators in that thread you linked?
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LOL u cant compare a 0.63 3076 to a 0.82 3071. Also, not to mention your higher compression.
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Smaller Cooler Pipe Causing Power Loss?
Harey replied to WYTSKY's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I agree that its the 0.63 exhaust housing that is causing the drop up the very top. The car has amazing response though! I reckon leave it as is and just change at 6,500ish. As everyone says how often are you above 6,500rpm compared to under it. This would be a very fast road car. Yes you can spend a lot of cash changing over to 0.82 and while you will get more of a top end rush it will be slower overall on the street. My vote keep it and enjoy Only worry would be if the temps are too high to be reliable. -
Yup exactly, I bought some pvc caps from bunnings and use a silicone joiner and clamp to block off both the intake and the throttlebody. Then put an air hose fitting into the intake cap and insert air pressure. Any leaks I have had on previous cars have been quite loud and very easy to locate. Just need to find my damn pump!
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Have to ask Trent, he did some process to tune it. Dont know much more about it. I just know the car feels a lot laggier and less power. Dont even really need a dyno but the dyno backs it up how it feels.
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Ok I blocked my bov off and it is still laggy and not making the power it should. It used to come on hard at 4,000rpm, now it only starts at 4,500rpm. It feels the same as with the bov plumbed in. Bugger thats the bov off the list. Looks like Trents boost leak idea is the next thing to check. I still have my boost leak tester from my previous car so will give that a go as soon as I can find the pump. Any other ideas?
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2.5 inch last time I checked $28.43 for a 90 degree bend Theres only 2 of them, but yeah it is still going to add up.
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Wow those prices are fantastic! Thanks heaps!
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Did you reinstall the bov afterwards? I cant see how a bov restrictor plate could reduce power? Affect driveability sure.
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What do people think of this bov? Will this perform the same as a standard one ie leaking at idle etc? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TURBOSMART-KOMPACT-...=item2c57d74ad6 I love turbosmart products, they have always served me well in the past.
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Hi All, As the topic suggests I am trying to find the best place to buy some black silicone joiners to replace my factory rubber. Is there a shop in melbourne that people know of that is a good price and good quality? I hate the monza brand that autobarn have plus they dont have black. I was hoping to find a physical store instead of an online store if possible, unless someone has a really good online store to recommend?
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Thanks Trent, does a 'block in plate' do the same thing as that rubber cap you put over the bov last time? I was going to put that on tonight and go for a spin. I was quite happy with the 279rwkw last time with more response, I would like to get there first and then look at improvements later on. The bov is one thing that has changed since then and is also very easy to work on. Taking off front bar and checking/replacing joiners is obviously a lot more work.
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My tuner Trent said that the R34 ecu has more smarts built into it and is very hard to get perfect driveability without a bov. He much preferred me to run a bov that returned to the intake. I thought the stock bov had proved itself to be quite good for 300rwkw?? I am going for the standard engine bay appearance (cause of stupid vic rules) and driveability is very important to me.
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Need Some Help With R33 Gts-t Upgrades
Harey replied to Jake91's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
No the fine is not for an aftermarket turbo, the fine is only for an externally wastegated turbo. -
That is not always the case. The leak could be slight enough that the turbo can make more boost to keep the same boost level. Only difference would be more lag (which I have) and the turbo would be running a lot harder. I had the blow off valve blocked off for the 279kw dyno above and that still dropped boost. Only difference since then is 20rwkw. Oh well I will just block off the blow off valve and go for a drive tonight.
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So the GTR bov bolts right up? How do you know that its not leaking? Is there anywhere you can buy a new nissan one or is that ridiculously expensive? I would like to keep it looking stock.
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Thanks Trozzle. Another point I forgot to mention was that we tried another stud in the wastegate to increase boost and this also had the same drop off in boost. Tao just called me then and brought up another good option the standard blow off valve being faulty. And now that I think about it when I get off throttle when on boost it does make a short dose noise. Tao was saying the standard blow off valve spring is very soft so should not do that. In the first 279rwkw dyno I had the blow off valve blocked off, wow that is most probably the answer! By answer I mean getting back to 279rwkw, not the answer to the dropping boost level.
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Ok, I have some disappointing results from my dyno with Trent yesterday. I went in with a new intake hoping to at least match the previous 279rwkw and then troubleshoot by dropping the exhaust and trying to get the turbo to hold boost flat instead of dropping 3psi. We could not make more than 255rwkw. We tried tightening the intercooler pipe clamps and did make a bit more around 260rwkw. Boost looked around the same, starting at 18psi and dropping down to about 15psi. We then dropped the cat to test if the exhaust was restrictive. This did result in about 10rwkw more. We then bolted just the cat up without the catback and it made about 5rwkw less. Hardly anything to be worried with so the exhaust was crossed off the list of suspects. Yellow is full exhaust, light blue is dump and cat but no catback, and dark blue is just the dump pipe with no cat. Trent aborted this run after he saw there was not much difference. Trents hypothesis is a dodgy rubber joiner somewhere in the intercooler piping or perhaps a less than average intercooler. So next step is to replace all rubber joiners with silicone and see how that goes. If anyone else has any ideas that would be really helpful!! Please dont judge the hypergear turbo on my result as clearly my car has some other issues. I dont think its fair to compare my results to the 3071 either as mine is not running well yet.
